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go for the frame first. The skins can be pounded out anytime. Besides, that way if you accidentally knock it around while doing the frame work, no harm no foul. Also, you will get a better idea of just how much work there is to do ( floor rust ) that way.
be sure to provide plenty of support to the car center when you cut the floor out, otherwise it will sag.
That looks like it has a good body and nothing else which is good for what you want. you could put a full cage in the car and run the unibody with frame stiffeners if the unibody rails underneath were good but by the looks of those floors, you would be better off with a tube chassie, another option would be to look at a early 1990's Crown vic, there sort of a uni frame, there is a perimiter frame going around the outside of the unibody rails and 1 of these might work for what you want if it was cut to fit, and you could build a tube type chassie around this perimiter frame.
For sure the first step is total dismantling and getting to the bad spots. Media blasting is next, I did mine with a cheap blaster I bought for $60.00 at one of these traveling tool sales. (Cummins) Then you know what you have to fix and remove. getting the frame installed and all drivetrain components in before putting the body back together is a must. Remember if you use any of the rust inhibiters like POR15 you have to at least primmer them right away, once it drys no paint will stick. Remember deciding what engine your going to use and getting it going is important too. You will be building the car around it and what it needs. I would suggest not too many decisions ahead of time, I have found that during a very long build time, you'll find that some of your plans don't work or you may just see something that will work better. Be flexable and above all ENJOY!:D
The guys have been very kind to you, and have given you some good info. Based on what you've said it sounds like neither you nor your dad have a lot of experience with this sort of thing. While what you've described as your overall objective can be done, you still don't know if it's something you either should do, or can do. Realistically assessing your skills, stick to-ativeness, and ability to pay is very difficult for a newbie. To that end let me toss some cold water of reality.
What the guys say about having a sturdy, well built chassis from a pro is correct. Blower motors that will deliver 500+ horses and live are relatively expensive. The amount of work that rust bucket car needs is VERY, VERY extensive. If you and dad have some decent skills, a shop full of tools and the ability to learn quickly you might be able to build a first class car for something around $20-25k. It will take you every bit of the time you've guestimated, and likely more given your novice state. If you compensate by hiring pros to do what you finally figure out you're incapable of doing the price goes up ........................FAST!! And if you think what I've said in this paragraph is nuts you're normal, not correct, but normal.
If you still want to go forward to the goal you've stated, good for you. I wish you well. You'll find out why some of the guys sound skeptical about the current condition of the car. You're about to find out why some cars are a bad deal even if you get them for free. Most experienced folks have learned (mostly the hard way) you always start with the absolute best car you can.
One more tip. When you go to get repair panels for the body, what you're calling a quarter panel is really a fender, and what you're calling a rear panel is the quarter panel. A rear body panel is the part that goes across the trunk just above the bumper. That will help you communicate better with the body part suppliers.
In response to the first part, you're correct, we do not have a lot of experience. Partially why I joined this forum, began asking around anywhere that i can get hands on experience (car shop at the university is a good place for this I have found out), and began reading. Probably more than I should actually, seeing as how this has began to take priority over my psych course I'm falling behind in. Books have been ordered and contacts have been established so that I can learn/practice the skills needed to do some of the work.Quote:
Originally posted by Bob Parmenter
The guys have been very kind to you, and have given you some good info. Based on what you've said it sounds like neither you nor your dad have a lot of experience with this sort of thing. While what you've described as your overall objective can be done, you still don't know if it's something you either should do, or can do. Realistically assessing your skills, stick to-ativeness, and ability to pay is very difficult for a newbie. To that end let me toss some cold water of reality.
What the guys say about having a sturdy, well built chassis from a pro is correct. Blower motors that will deliver 500+ horses and live are relatively expensive. The amount of work that rust bucket car needs is VERY, VERY extensive. If you and dad have some decent skills, a shop full of tools and the ability to learn quickly you might be able to build a first class car for something around $20-25k. It will take you every bit of the time you've guestimated, and likely more given your novice state. If you compensate by hiring pros to do what you finally figure out you're incapable of doing the price goes up ........................FAST!! And if you think what I've said in this paragraph is nuts you're normal, not correct, but normal.
If you still want to go forward to the goal you've stated, good for you. I wish you well. You'll find out why some of the guys sound skeptical about the current condition of the car. You're about to find out why some cars are a bad deal even if you get them for free. Most experienced folks have learned (mostly the hard way) you always start with the absolute best car you can.
One more tip. When you go to get repair panels for the body, what you're calling a quarter panel is really a fender, and what you're calling a rear panel is the quarter panel. A rear body panel is the part that goes across the trunk just above the bumper. That will help you communicate better with the body part suppliers.
I understand what you stated, and I honestly was prepared for it. I knew this project would not be quick or painless as soon as I saw it in the light the first day after we bought it. I was unaware of the fact that the car was a unibody but I think we can arrange to work with that.
I do still wish to proceed with the project. I hope I'm not being niave but I think we can get it done. We are in no rush and only want to build OUR car. Put our blood, sweat, time and hearts into it and have the car we built, that is both of our dreams. A car in better condition would have been reallllyyy nice, but we were unable to find one within reasonable distance for the same price or cheaper.
And thank very much for the vocabulary lesson. I only wish someone would have had the decency to tell me earlier:p
I'm not wanting anyone to sugarcoat it. The way you put things was honest and straight forward. You won't hurt my feelings or enthusiasm about the project, only give me well desired input. Just don't come to me and say you're a dumbass that is working on a money pit and neglect to provide any useful information.
Thanks everyone for everything thus far. It'll be a while before I am able to give an update but I'll keep yall posted on my thoughts and plans. As stated earlier, if anyone has anything to suggest I am very anxious to hear it.
RJ & CJ,
Good to here you and your dad are going to do that project together. You are on the right track, you already recieve some solid advice. Research, plan, research, and plan some more. And just as important enjoy yourselves.:3dSMILE:
i have done some cars that were ruff and can write a book. but i will not , just rember one thing if you do not know what you are doing some one could get killed so all welds brake lines steering. rearend mounting points and front end parts have to be done rigth. you need to have the basics down to just work on a cars .but to buld one you have to know alot more or have deep pockets. you will need some very good tools welders mig welder drill press grinders cutoff saw drills away to cut steel thin and thick and alot more i will try to keep it short . this sounds good that you and your dad want to do this BUT this car would take over 30.000 to build and about 20.000 of tools to do it all your self
Quote:
Originally posted by RJ & CJ
Pics uploaded.
http://www.clubhotrod.com/photopost/...=15922&thumb=1
Would'nt really retain any of the origonal styling that way though. And would it be any cheaper??
Listen to the guys that have responded to your thread. You will be light years ahead if you buy a pro-built chassis from Alston or Morrison. Yes, it won't come cheap, but it will probably save you money in the long run. I built a BBF Maverick back in the early 70's without knowing what I was getting into. Lots of time, sweat & blood !
After looking at the pictures of the car and reading what you've written about he purchase price and location being major factors in your decision to buy the car I really don't see that you have much of a bargin.
I'm afraid that the rust you see (especially in the roof and rear quarters) is literally just the tip of the iceburg. Once you get into stripping the paint off the entire car your going find it's a lot worse than it looks (and it looks pretty bad). I'm not saying the cars not salvagable, just questioning wether it is WORTH salvaging. Chances are you will end up parting out nicer more solid cars to build this one.
These cars do have a lot of potential for being built into a neat pro street car and I realise that a lot of the parts that are rusty would be replaced anyway. The parts that will be reused however will require MAJOR work and a fair amount of equiptment investment to be repaired. Two big investments will be a quality MIG welder and compressor.
Body work is an art/skill that takes a lot of practice to perfect (or that you pay dearly for if you farm that part out). The learning curve can be a LONG and painful learning experience.
By the time you find solid quarters, doors fenders and possibly even an entire roof and have them shipped chances are you could have bought and shipped an entire car from as far way as the south west and not have to still go through the entire body work process of installing the parts and making it straight afterwards.
I would suggest that you may want to keep an open mind and possibly continue to look for a more solid car for this project. You may find it is going to save you a lot of time, money and work in the long run.
I,m in process on a 62 Falcon Back halfed, Mustang II frt, opn and on. Email me if you like.
i know its to late, but to start with something like this would have been better. $4,000.00 would have bought it, he has 8,000.00 + in it.
http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/sho...threadid=19610
Mike's advice is GOLDEN !!!!Quote:
Originally posted by Mike P
After looking at the pictures of the car and reading what you've written about he purchase price and location being major factors in your decision to buy the car I really don't see that you have much of a bargin.
I'm afraid that the rust you see (especially in the roof and rear quarters) is literally just the tip of the iceburg. Once you get into stripping the paint off the entire car your going it's a lot worse than it looks (and it looks pretty bad). I'm not saying the cars not salvagable, just questioning wether it is WORTH salvaging. Chances are you will end up parting out nicer more solid cars to build this one.
These cars do have a lot of potential for being built into a neat pro street car and I realise that a lot of the parts that are rusty would be replaced anyway. The parts that will be reused however will require MAJOR work and a fair amount of equiptment investment to be repaired. Two big investments will be a quality MIG welder and compressor.
Body work is an art/skill that takes a lot of practice to perfect (or that you pay dearly for if you farm that part out). The learning curve can be a LONG and painful learning experience.
By the time you find solid quarters, doors fenders and possibly even an entire roof and have them shipped chances are you could have bought and shipped an entire car from as far way as the south west and not have to still go through the entire body work process of installing the parts and making it straight afterwards.
I would suggest that you may want to keep an open mind and possibly continue to look for a more solid car for this project. You may find it going to save you a lot of time, money and work in the long run.
Wake up and face the awful truth. I don't mean to sound like a smart***, but no matter how much money and time you spend to polish a turd, it's still a turd.
If you want me to, I'll prospect for an Arizona car for you. I've seen rollers here for as little as $500. Like Mike said, even with paying the freight, you'll be waaaaaaay ahead. With Christmas coming up, there will be some smokin' deals here to provide the seller with money for gifts.
yes it is ruff i look at it and did not see much of the body alot of the floor pan will be cut out for the race frame but you will have to mount the frame to something that some thing needs to be there back side rocker back of the cowl and the back side of the back tail ligth panel if not it needs to be made and if the out side or the rocker and cowl and tail panel is rusted out then you will have a lot of work and it looks like you do not have a good roof line to start from to build a tube frame car you need a good roof line and you do not have that. i have worked on willys and two angias that were not as nice as you car but they were harder to find so they were built
OK, here is a question. Everyone is speaking of the cost to replace the fenders, quarter panels and roof; can they not be repaired? The segments of rotted rust are brief on the fenders and isolated on the roof and qp's. Can I not just have them repaired since most of the pieces are good?
The reason for buying the car at this price is because while doing some research, I found vehicles like these going for more than what we were going to pay. Additionally they were further away and we couldn't pick it up ourselves in an evening. Also, while other cars may be cheap, like 4-5grand, we did not and do not have the lump sum available to make a purchase like that. I am not debating the fact that they are fairly cheap.Quote:
Originally posted by Mike P
[B]After looking at the pictures of the car and reading what you've written about he purchase price and location being major factors in your decision to buy the car I really don't see that you have much of a bargin.
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