Printable View
I have a 65 chevy truck,and the original crossmember is fine except for the bottom where the metal is push in by a floor jack.At most its 3/16 of a inch deep ,across a 8"x8" square.How would I fix this ? I was thinking to fill it in weld JB weld ,and sand smooth,Will it last?I am also going to sand blast the crossmember for a good bond.
I guess not ,the metal needs to be pulled out so water can drain from inside cross member.How can it be pulled out?
Pictures would be very helpful if you can post some....
Damn! that is a thick piece of metal... If the weight of the truck on a floor jack did that, I'd be wondering if the thing was so rust-rotted that safety is an issue! The entire front crossmember assembly is unboltable on those trucks, and it may be worth finding a better one and changing it out.
A floor jack wouldn't do that. Some time in the past, someone has hit something hard with that truck. Check the rest of the frame for damage before you spend much time and money on it.
Sounds like someone nailed a great big rock with that crossmember??? As the Pope said, you probably want to do a bunch of measuring and checking to make sure the frame isn't tweaked somewhere....
you can also cut it out while leaving the lower a-arm pivot bolt holes in place...then welding in some round tube...it's an old drag-racer trick to lighten the front and allow easy access...mod can easily be done with engine in place
In a word ---NO---you can not repair any structural member with JB weld.-----JB weld is nothing but an epoxy filler with high metallic content.---it is like a metallic body filler. It can be used to fill/plug cracks and for cosmetic repairs, but never-never-never to replace the actual "welding" process. Look at JB weld as nothing more than a bodyfiller for metal.
JB weld = dried mud or silly putty.
lol just trying to give another example on what Brian said that's all. :D
Thats all I was going to use it for,a filler.Quote:
Originally posted by brianrupnow
In a word ---NO---you can not repair any structural member with JB weld.-----JB weld is nothing but an epoxy filler with high metallic content.---it is like a metallic body filler. It can be used to fill/plug cracks and for cosmetic repairs, but never-never-never to replace the actual "welding" process. Look at JB weld as nothing more than a bodyfiller for metal.
In that case, then yes, you could probably use it. Only thing is, that stuff is harder than the devils horn when it sets up. Make sure you smooth it to whatever surface you want while it is still wet, because once it dries I don't think it can be "worked" like conventional bodyfiller.
structurally, it is probably fine. Getting the frame checked for straight is a real good idea though, cause that must have been some lick to dent in that piece of steel.
If you are only intrested in dressing up the brace cosmetically, then the JB will do great.
Brian, I am not sure what you mean by "The Devils Horn" but crikey it sounds HARD! I am sure Mrs Devil would be very pleased, if you know what I mean....:LOL: :LOL:Quote:
Originally posted by brianrupnow
In that case, then yes, you could probably use it. Only thing is, that stuff is harder than the devils horn when it sets up. Make sure you smooth it to whatever surface you want while it is still wet, because once it dries I don't think it can be "worked" like conventional bodyfiller.
As for that sizeable dent mentioned in this thread, I certainly would be looking for further damage. (bending or rust) prior to covering up the evidence.
Andy.
Gherkin350----Thats not the horn I was talking about :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: , and I have to agree, I think it is bad judgement to cover any structural member with a filler material. If it does rot through under the filler afterwards, you won't know it untill you're sliding down the asphalt at 90 miles an hour on the oilpan.
The area in question is on the bottom of the front crossmember.Over the years people have lifted the truck up by putting a floor jack underneath the center of the crossmember ,and over the years it has pushed in a little.The structure of the crossmember is still fine.Its over a space of 6-8 inch square.I doubt anything bad will come of leaving it like this ,its just anoying to look at ,because its not right.How could I pull it back out?
Pictures please. Pictures will help us help you.
I might be tempted to pull it out with a rigged-up slide hammer. I've made 'em up from scratch here at the garage from scrap. In this case, I might use a piece of 3/8" round rod and a chunk of steel or iron to use as a slider, anything laying around that weighs maybe 5 lbs or so. weld a stop on one end of the round rod, slide the hammer onto the rod and weld the other end to the crossmember in the center of the dent. If it didn't want to move cold, I might apply a little persuasion from a blue-tip wrench applied around the outside of the dent. If the dent doesn't pull out square with the rod at that position on the member, grind the rod off and weld it in the next apparent depression. When it's pulled out to your satisfaction, grind off the rod and finish with a light coat of body filler if you feel it necessary.
Or-----if its really bothering you---weld an eye bolt to the center of it, chain it down to the garage floor (you do have hook points in your floor?) and jack the vehicle up.
"and jack the vehicle up."
Won't work Brian, he'll bend the crossmember at another point :LOL:
if the dent is really bothering you just use some allmetal filler and paint it black. It will last for a long while and can be repaired again easily.
with out seeing a picture of the dmamged area, kinda hard to suggest a good reliable fix......i am thinking that using 1/8" plate and weld it over the damgad area, that way if there are any structural weaknesses the new plate will beef it up, all the welds can then be ground down for cosmetic purposes.......I tried the jb weld to fill in un necessary holes on my frame and found it was pretty friendly to work with when in small batches but a big area like you are saying, not sure if it will be as easy......
81 cabellero's idea on the new plate sounds like a good idea to me. It can take place of the bent plate basically.
I know pics. say a thousand words,but no digital camera makes it hard to place pics.I am going to weld some chain links to the center of the 6x8 damaged area.Then hook a engine hoist to the chains,and lift(frame is upside down on jacks).Then I am going to apply a little heat .
Well good luck on whatever you choose. Just remember that when you go to sell that truck (if you ever do) then be sure to tell the buyer about that. If you decide to race the truck or whatever or someone else does then that will have to be fixed or you may have problems down the road.
Yep that plate idea is a good one. Over here in Aus we have an independant front end that gets used in lots of rods. It comes from our early model Holdens. The centre cross member is fairly tinny and by the time us hot rodders get hold of them they are peppered with dints (usually). What I have done and what lots have done, I am sure, is use a plasma cut piece of plate steel, cut to the size of the cross member ,then stitch this to the member so as to not induce to much heat.
Stiffens the front, removes the uglies and you can jack off that till the cows come home!
Andy.
Those crazy Aussies!
a lot of time s the front cross gets hammer by the road or lack there of and close up the front cross member and when you try to get the front end alignment back in there is no a justment all shim out. this is where the dent may came from rebending or opening it up. this done with a big I beam and a 20 ton bottle jack and the horns get chain to the beam and things will move . but what i would do is cut the plate out with cut off and drill out plug welds and get it out and hammer it flat or a new pice of steel and weld it back in i have work on many frame you can work the steel just like sheet steel just bigger hammers. if you dont feel you can weld if then dont do it and find someone that can weld good or just live with it