CSB space limitations on 34 Ford?

Assuming the CSB are placed where the engine mount manufacturer (chassis eng. in this case) recommend them to be placed, will it be possible to use a long type waterpump, or do I have to change to a short one?

what are you refering to ? csb ? if you are referering to a standard smallblock chev. it will be hard to run a long waterpump and retain a engine fan . but you probally can run a electric fan on the front of the radiator if you dont run a a/c condensor .

Thank you for your answer kennyd!

I am refering to a standard 1992 model Chevrolet small block 5,7L. (not a LT1)

The car will not be equipped with AC or power steering.
The waterpump who followed the motor is therefore a long type pump.

I have an electric fan whitch is intended to be placed at the rear of the radiator (more efficient than front mounting anyway). It is rather slim. It will be needing app 3 inches of space behind the radiator
I'm planning (but have not quite decided) to rebuild the waterpump to electric powered function to save some power to the rear wheels.

Because I've moved the firewall app 3 3/4 inches further rear, I will be able to move the engine one or maybe 2 inches further back than the recommended postition (the HEI distributor I bought is huge!)
It is a steel body.

But from what you tell, I'll probably needs a short waterpump anyway.

Once again thank you for your answer!

I've got the CE mounts on my '33 mounted in the recommended/required position. This is also mandated by the X-member trans mount (also CE) location. With a short water pump there is 1 5/8" clearance to the back of the radiator (2 3/4" core), so a long pump won't work. There are some variants in rad mounting, so my numbers may not exactly match yours but is pretty close.

Thank you for your answer, Bob.
Are your clearance numbers including a fan on the Waterpumps nose?
Or are they the clearance between the radiator and the plain waterpump?

That's just the front of the pump shaft, without fan.

Thank you Bob. Very valuable information for me.
Since I'll be using a 6 speed Camaro transmission and stock X-member I must fabricate a new transmission mount anyway.
And yes, the stock X-member is actually wide enough to accept the T56 trans! ;)

The cooling fan I purcased on the local wrecking yard need app 2 3/4" of room.
If I use a short waterpump and place the engine app 1 7/8" further back than stock CE position, it will be app 3/4" of clearance between the fan and the nose on the waterpump.

Quote:

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Originally posted by staleg
If I use a short waterpump and place the engine app 1 7/8" further back than stock CE position, it will be app 3/4" of clearance between the fan and the nose on the waterpump.

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If you're going to do that I'd suggest not using the stock HEI distributor because you'll have clearance issues there. You can get a variety of electronic distributors with the smaller diameter head that will work as well.

Also, you may want to mock it up before welding and check your steering column clearance to the exhaust manifolds/headers. The further back the engine, the more chance of interference where they would "normally" come through the firewall.

I would recommend installing the body on the chassis then slide the engine as far back as you can for starters. Then add your radiator along with the support rods on top to the cowl. This way you know where the engine can be based on where the body/radiator must be. Then you can slide the engine forward & Up/Down to the fan so you have as much comfort with the shifter location.

There is not much room on the 33/34's for error. I still have a $1500.00 BABB radiator which I bought new and ended up not being able to use it as there was not enough room after the paint work had been done. It seems even a 1/4" is too much when you are out of room.

I too have a 6-Speed (got to have 3 pedals in a hot rod!), and it caused enough problems on its own when finding the best placement for the engine.

I would also take into consideration the headers, overflow tank, and distributor. You might consider one of the small HEI units as they help by not having to eat up too much firewall space. And one last note...you might plan for A/C now even if you dont plan on running one now. That way if you ever decide you want relief from the heat, you wont have to move the engine later.

Again, just suggestions. After several rebuilds, this is getting easier. Post some pictures when you get a chance so we can see the progress.

Let us know if we can help anymore.

Troy

Thank you for your answers, guys!

AC wil not be an issue for me since I live in Norway.

The steering column might be a problem of course.

Since the engine is a CSB 350 rebuilt from TBI, the ditributor is already switched into a flamethrower type.
Unfortunately it is rather large, but this will only be a question of enough space in the center of the firewall anyway.
It is already modified quite a bit (2 1/2" further back pluss another 1 1/2" in the center, see photo) but it's not much work to set it back even more in the center.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...do_etter20.jpg

How about mounting the front suspension (Fat Man Stage II) one inch further towards the front and simply stretch the hood sides and top?

Are you going to run fenders?

If not, moving the crossmember & axle forward 1.5" shouldnt be that noticeable. If you plan to run fenders...well thats a whole nother story alltogether.

I personally think moving the axle .75" forward centers the wheel in the fender if the car is to set low in the front. So that would help anyway. But I would caution against any more than that.

I really dont think you will have much issues as you are planning. Again, I would simply mock everything before paint, so you can plan it as you go. Tacking everything in place and doing the final welding after all clearances have been achieved should prove the best way to go.

I'm not going to run fenders, but I agree that moving the front suspensin too much forward is not good.

Im must also check out if the front mounted steering rack will interference with the radiator if I move the front suspension forward.
But on the other hand, since I've not bought the radiator yet, I can buy a 2" chopped radiator and move the mounts a little upwards, of course.

At present It sound to me that making an extra recess area in the middle of the fire wall will be the easiest way to go. And moving the engine more back will be good for the weight ratio too.
But I will do a mock up when I've completed the lead filling work and the engine is mounted together with the transmission.

By the way, here's my homepage who describes the project. It's in Norwegian, but there are lot of pictures who speak for themselves:
http://home.online.no/~staalgi/index.cfm