Its anti-freeze time

Probably this is something that you guys in the southern USA don't have to worry about, but its a fact of life here in Ontario and the northern States. The temperatures are just now beginning to dip below freezing at night, and its going to get a lot worse before it gets better. A cracked block or heads, and a sprung radiator are really nasty things.---and its so easy to forget to add anti-freeze. Probably everyone who lives in the "freeze" zone has experienced this at one time or other-----you build a new car, fill the rad with water for first firing (ya don't want anti-freeze in your oil---it does horrible things to bearings), and then it runs so good you forget to add anti-freeze. Or else you fill it up with good quality anti-freeze, and throughout the summer it boils over a bit in traffic, so you top the rad off with water when you get home----and keep on doing it untill you have diluted the anti-freeze untill it isn't effective any more.
Heads up guys---get out the anti-freeze and the big old funnel.

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Originally posted by brianrupnow
Probably this is something that you guys in the southern USA don't have to worry about

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Good advice Brian,

One year in New Orleans we had below 20 for three days.
I started my Camaro straight 6 (with no antifreeze) before the temp was above 32 and the block cracked immediately. I think if I had waited it might have survived.

But then I upgraded to a 350 out of a station wagon. ;)

Bert

Yep, gettin that way here, not freezsing yet tho. I keep antifreeze in both cars but I did add water to the chevy cause the cap leaks bad, so I ran it until it emptied a bit then added some antifreeze to top it off, then checked it to make shure it had good protection

Just don't use that extended use anti-freeze. It'll gum up the cooling system.

Running straight water will scale up your rad in a year or so, and antifreeze is more efficient anyway. It's false economy to run straight water.

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Originally posted by Swifster
Just don't use that extended use anti-freeze. It'll gum up the cooling system.

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Is that the orange stuff? I run the standard green antifreeze.

I run about 40% anti freeze 60% water in winter and then 30-60 in summer. Winter here it will snow and get below freezing so anti freeze is still needed. I just read your advice or info about anti freeze in your oil and just learned that. I never knew this before and when I changed my intake manifold I used the end seal gaskets and they leaked and got antifreeze and water into my oil A TON. I drained both and took the manifold off and got ALL the water out of the block that I could and then didn't use end seal gaskets this time, just silicone. I ran the motor for a while with the water in it because for the first ten minutes it wasn't leaking at all. Then later after running it for about an hour or a tad more I looked in the oil and ALL FOAM. I took off the intake manifold and just tons of antifreeze, etc. That time I had 50/50 mix.

Thanks for the reminder, Brian. Went and checked both my drivers today. NOW both are good to -40F!!!!!!

Whatever it is that anti-freeze does, it will almost immediately ruin the bearings in an engine. I have experienced this first hand. Thats why whenever I fire a new engine for the first time, I use straight water as the coolant, untill I'm sure that the cooling system is not leaking into the oil pan. It is a good idea to run anti-freeze all year round, because it has rust inhibitors to prevent rust build-up in the block and heads, and it has additives in it that help to prolong the life of the waterpump seals.----however, it should be changed once a year.

Silicone-based antifreeze won't harm bearings, but its expensive as hell. Better to do as advised above and use water on first startup.

So, with all the new ones (anti-freeze) out there, which is the best for use with an engine that is cast iron block and aluminum heads??? Is there a big difference, or does it just depend on what brand you prefer???? I've been doing a lot more fab work than engine work the last few years, and I really haven't kept up on all the changes in coolants and oils........ Thanks.

I use Prestone antifreeze. It is relatively inexpensive, has been around for a donkeys age, and has never caused me a problem.

Me too, Brian. I've used Prestone since Lassie was a pup. Just wondered if the new stuff was any better.. Guess I'll stick with the tried and true.

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Originally posted by brianrupnow
I use Prestone antifreeze. It is relatively inexpensive, has been around for a donkeys age, and has never caused me a problem.

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Prestone is great stuff! You probley like the bright yellow bottles!!

Yeah that is what I use is the bright yellow bottles. I keep an extra bottle of it in the bed of my truck and then an extra bottle of water just in case. When I first changed all the hoses, etc I had heaps of leaks and didn't trust it. It isn't leaking anymore so I dont have to worry about it as much but still like to stay on the safe side. Thanks for the info about the bearings, etc Brian, I will be sure when I build a motor to run straight water then. Good tip I will probably never forget now. Those kind of things stay stuck in my head heh.

I don't know anyone using straight water anymore. Everyone uses anti-freeze/anti-boil compounds no matter where they live. Don't matter what brand you buy. Just flush out the system every couple years and put fresh stuff in. It's dirt cheap protection that is so basic I'm surprised anyone would not do it.

Yup, and easy as heck to do it. But you'd be surprised how many NEVER change it. Some people don't even change their oil until their motor blows.

I use a 50-50 mix of coolant/antifreeze and distilled water. I dont know if the distilled water makes a difference but I have heard that it helps. Especially with an aluminum radiator.

I have no brand loyalty for antifreeze, just figure ethelyne glycol is etheleyne glycol is ethelyne glycol.

Great advice about the start up though. Never considered the consequences of a coolant leak internal, and didn't know that anti freeze was hard on bearings.

Here in the sunny South ( GA ) got another month or two before I really have to worry about it, but will definitely check it soon. Ever since the firebird ran hot from a broken belt, ( had to replace a head ) it has been loosing water, don't know where, so it is probably diluted by now.

Firebird---sounds like a cracked head. overheating will do that. Everytime the piston in the cylinder next to the crack pulls vacuum on intake stroke, a really small amount of water is pulled from the crack and converted to steam when that cylinder fires. The cylinder will still fire, but the coolant level will gradually go down in the rad with no visible leaks.

Man Brian, you taught me ANOTHER thing! Can I pay you to just teach me things instead of going to college? haha just messing.