Hey guys i was wondering how much my truck weights and i dont know were to go it is a 1966 chevy c-10 with a v8 oh its also a 1/2ton if you didnt know. Thanks in advance.
Printable View
Hey guys i was wondering how much my truck weights and i dont know were to go it is a 1966 chevy c-10 with a v8 oh its also a 1/2ton if you didnt know. Thanks in advance.
there's only one answer to that question. that would be: A LOT.
Those old trucks weight like 4000+ lbs.
I saw on a Chevy Truck website that in 1960 they increased the weight of their 1/2 ton trucks from 5,000 to 5,200 lbs. Although if I was using this number to calculate max towing capacity, I would probably hit a truck stop and throw it on the scales to be sure...
Hey guys i have put up the truck for a while and i have moved to the car my friend has a 1985 Mustang 5.0 lx I can not find an a exact weight for the car does any one know how much it weights . Thanks
Truck 36-3800 approx., car 2300 give or take.
I wish they were that light, LOL.Quote:
Originally posted by shawnlee28
Truck 36-3800 approx., car 2300 give or take.
http://www.fordmuscle.com/readerscars/viewcars.php?id=4
I did not do the math, but I would say the average reported weight for a mid 80's LX is around 3,000LB.
"I did not do the math, but I would say the average reported weight for a mid 80's LX is around 3,000LB."
Right on the money.
KBB shows 2,691 for an '86.Quote:
Originally posted by Speed Freak
Hey guys i have put up the truck for a while and i have moved to the car my friend has a 1985 Mustang 5.0 lx I can not find an a exact weight for the car does any one know how much it weights . Thanks
My '83 convertible with a 351 Windsor, aluminum heads and intake, and a 5 speed weighed 3,140 wet weight going across the scale at the drag strip.......
So i can say that my friends 85 mustang 5.0 lx coupe like weights really close to 2690 i mean the front sway bar has been taken off and the blower assembly has been taken off and the ac/heater also ac delete kit that has been done. We are also going to get one of those smog pump delete kit also a rear seat delete kit.
No, I don't think you can. Did you read the other replys? If hundreds of owners are reporting a weight of 2900+lbs, which do you think is more credible?Quote:
Originally posted by Speed Freak
So i can say that my friends 85 mustang 5.0 lx coupe like weights really close to 2690.
I still think 2690 after yoru edit is a little much. in the 2k's is reasonable with a lot of stripping, but the majority of the weight comes from frame material and all that sheetmetal.
Right around 3100 lbs, depending on body style.
Thats very true but i think that it at least weights 3000 lbs i can at least say that it weights 2990 with the stuff that i have taken off of it and i can say it will weight even less cause of the rest of the stuff i'm taking off of it. Fiberglass hood is coming next week and then fiberglass trunk will come after that and i have a full set of weld drag lights coming, well i have the rear set but not the fronts. Yes it is also true that i was looking for stock weight to see if i could figure out what it weights now so i'm looking at at least 2900+.
Quote:
Originally posted by Itoldyouso
Right around 3100 lbs, depending on body style.
It is an 1985 Mustang 5.0 LX (coupe) not a hatchback.
We are building an ' 84 Capri Drag Car, and stripped of everything, using glass parts and tubular front crossmember, it will come in at about 2800. When you strip stuff off, you have to put some reinforcement back in (subframe connectors, roll cage, etc) so it is really hard to get a doorslammer to come in much under that weight.
Ya i mean we are switching to a set of summit racing seat rear delete and also take off the stock carpet and the stuff makes it quite in the car and put new carpet in it that 30lbs total so far we have taken out 60lbs also fiberglass doors and trunk and front clip will be perchased later also my friends on a diet haha.
Then soon after that when we go crazy with it we will backhalf it!LOL:3dSMILE: :3dSMILE: :3dSMILE:
I read something in a magazine one time, and it always stuck with me.
They said "when lightening a car, rather than looking for for one place to remove 1000 lbs, look for 1000 places to remove one pound."
Pretty smart, I thought. If you sit inside the typical car, there are a lot of places where you can save one pound each. (Like, is this bracket REALLY needed, or can I do without this item in the dash?)
The secret to losing weight is to remove everything you don't (safely) need, then starting to look over every inch of the car. And yes, it helps to not have the driver eating too many Big Macs.
WIth things that will be left, holes can be drilled in it to shed a pound or two. Get rid of anything related to the windows. Drill holes/trim in brackets that don't affect safety.Use composites where available. Remember though, while a light car is wonderful, if you dont have weight in the ass-end, then you won't have any available traction, and without that, you won't have a nice ET. ;)
Very very true this mustang does not catch traction at all by any means but right now we are running a street tire, i mean we have a built rearend just no slicks.
i figure instead of starting a new thread ill just continue on this one.
I'm looking to start lightening the elky up a little bit. I'm not looking to go quite as light.
It's my understanding that the el camino weighed ABOUT 3600 LBS from the factory. I'd like to get it down to about 3000 LBS dry (no driver, empty gas tank). How much weight can I lose by using glass fenders/hood, taking the ac stuff off. and a few other things. What are some other big things i can drop off of it? I'm also in the process of going from bench to bucket.
All depends on how you want to use the car. If you are going to just race it or don't mind a lot of road noise on the street, you can lose 600 lbs pretty easy.
All that A/C stuff weighs a ton, just by itself, if you figure in the compressor, condenser, evaporator assembly (with heater) hoses, etc. Then if you start with aluminum pieces like radiator, intake, light tube headers, simple exhaust, you are well on your way.
Where the road noise comes in is when you start scraping off sound deadening undercoat, carpeting and backing, door panels, etc.
I had a '68 Mustang with 351 Cleveland that finally got too radical to drive on the street, but we got it down to 2800 lbs., but it was like riding in a garbage can with people beating on it with hammers. Toward the end, even short trips wore you out, just from the noise and vibration levels.
But for every 100 lbs you lose, you also drop your et's proportionately.
There was an article in one of the Hot Rod magazines a few years back, called " Caddy Hack" (obviously a play on Caddy Shack) They took a bone stock 1970 Cadillac and ran it down the quarter mile. Then they systematically started chopping stuff off the car, and the et's started to drop. Finally, they took the entire body off, and ran just a racing seat on the bare frame. I think it ran in the low 12's, but traction was a real problem, even with slicks.
Just goes to show you how a little weight reduction helps.
Well, my 72 elky is bone stock with only 84,000 miles on the original motor. It still runs, drives, and handles like a dream.
I paid 2,000 for it and drove it home.
It needs a radiator anyways, so i'll be replacing that soon with aluminum, it also needs headers to replace the factory manifolds. it needs floorpans so there goes some weight when i put aftermarket sheetmetal in there. I won't be using sound deadener, just stop rust stuff. I want to go with a glass frontend. The fenderwells are already plastic so i can't lose any weight there.
I'm mainly looking to drop some fat from the front end. It still being a truck, i can use all the weight on the rear that i can.
Anyone recommend how to go about stopping the rust from happening again after i replace the floor? Also can someone recommend a good aluminum radiator?
My goal for this is a 383 stroker, cast steel crank/rods, domed pistons, lightweight balancer/flywheel, about 500 lift worth of camshaft. I'd like to use the 72 cc heads that are on the motor now with a good 3 angle valve job. I'm only curious as to with the factory cast heads, will the domed pistons clear. and if not what can i do to make them clear. I can't say exactly the spec on the domed piston though. I'd like to put out about 350 horses with this motor and run about 10:1 compression (just enough that i can run race gas or 93 octane pump gas) I know opinions are like assholes but I'd like to hear everyone's opinion on this.
Sorry for such a long post but im a long winded person. Also my exhaust man is wanting to put 3 inch from headers to mufflers (40 series flows) and then use turndowns in front of the rearend. What do you guys think? 3 inch too big?
Is 350hp a pretty reasonable goal for this setup? would it be higher or lower do you think from what i have/can tell you? I'm not interested in buying a crate motor because i already have a 4bolt 350 block and I can order parts at shop price because I'm dating the boss's daughter (and because i work there) :whacked:
I have heard that Rust Bullet or Silver Bullet can't remember which, works pretty well. As I understand it, it goes on like POR-15. Mind you, I have never used it so it is simply a suggestion of something to check into and research.Quote:
Originally posted by Hopper111
Anyone recommend how to go about stopping the rust from happening again after i replace the floor?
Good Luck,
Dutch
Hopper111,
The reason your floor rotted out most likely is because of that rear window leaking water to the inside. Don't know the condition of your elky but mine had some not so good fiberglass patched around the bottom of the rear window. I ended up grinding all of that out and put new metal in there and treated it well before painting. I do like those rust inhibitors, have used many brands with sucess. Any of them that convert the rust to a black what ever it is seem to work great, Por 15 is just one of the brands out there. I have used some stuff called rustite and it worked well for me.
There are two products sold in Marine stores, like Boat U/S, West Marine, and others. It is the same product, packaged for two different purposes. One is called "trailer coat", and is made to paint boat trailers. The other one is called "metal prep' and is made to coat underwater metals on boats.
It is a VERY tough urathane coating, silver in color, and it stands up to salt water like crazy. I coated the underside of my Capri with it about 4 years ago, and it is holding up great. I've never seen a better product.
HOWEVER, here is a big warning. DON'T GET ANY ON YOUR SKIN.
It doesn't come off. I didn't read the instructions on the can that tell you that, so I am laying under the car dripping this stuff all over me. I had just shorts on, so I was coated. When I was done, I took laquer thinner, acetone, you name it, nothing would touch it.
I went to work for 3 weeks with this stuff all over my head and body. Everybody kept laughing at me. It finally wore off.
I also painted the bed of my pickup before I put the bedliner in it, and it still looks great under there.
I will use it again, but with plastic gloves and a full paper suit and face mask. It is really great stuff, and only about $25-$30 a quart.
I don't know your name, so I will call you Itoldyouso for now :PQuote:
Originally posted by Itoldyouso
But for every 100 lbs you lose, you also drop your et's proportionately.
There was an article in one of the Hot Rod magazines a few years back, called " Caddy Hack" (obviously a play on Caddy Shack) They took a bone stock 1970 Cadillac and ran it down the quarter mile. Then they systematically started chopping stuff off the car, and the et's started to drop. Finally, they took the entire body off, and ran just a racing seat on the bare frame. I think it ran in the low 12's, but traction was a real problem, even with slicks.
Just goes to show you how a little weight reduction helps.
I think that the weight reduction actually serves no purpose past a certain point when you do not introduce certain suspension and weight transfer remedies. Such as Ladder Bars or 4-Link in the rear along with scooting the motor back. We can look at it this way, F=MA, and when we isolate A, we have F/M=A, and we know now that a smaller denominator with a constant numerator, A will become larger. We just need to ensure the coefficient of friction remains the same on the rear tires when the mass is reduced.
My thoughts could be completely wrong, but I think that weight decrease works just as long as you continue to retain that traction in the rear.
My name is Don, I just can't change that stupid user name I picked when I couldn't get logged on.
As for the traction, sure, the car has to hook up, or it is just like being on ice, but there is no cheaper/better way to make a car quicker than to lose some weight.
I had this conversation with a guy in a 5.0 Mustang at a traffic light one day. I was in my '27 roadster that also has a 5.0 in it, two-fours, good heads, hot cam, stick, etc. He was revving up his 5.0 like he was going to prove something.
I yelled over to him, you aren't very good at math, are you? He said "what do you mean?" I told him, "well, I weigh 1/2 as much as you, and am probably putting out a little more HP.......do the math."
He evidently took home economics in school, because when the light changed, I taught him a little algebra. He probably liked my '47 Chevy taillights, because he got to look at them for such a long time.
Think about this. Put any engine in a 2000 lb car, then put the same engine in a 5000 lb car. Which one do you think will be faster? Extreme example, but you get the point.
By the way, I see you and your Dad are building your car. Cool. He must have done a good job raising you, because I have read your posts, and you have your head screwed on pretty straight, and are always polite in your answers.
Thanks, Don
I dont know if this has been answered yet, but according to the registration on my old 89 Mustang LX with a 2.3L, that car weighed 3018lbs. I dont know if it will be that much more with a 5.0L, but I would say add 200lbs to that for the small-block. Its kind of odd too, cause my 82 cutlass only weighed 3200lbs itself. Someone care to fill me in here?:confused:
I just dont get it. No offense to anyone on here but for those that are lloking to lighten your vehicles...correct me if Im wrong but are they not street strip vehicles?"to lighten your cars so they are like riding in go karts just doesnt make sense. You make the car so noisy, feels like your on the subway in the bronx during a hurricane! I can understand a hood change, bumper changes, even fenders and doors....but most car need the additional weight of the deck lid and the battery moved over the rear unless you are fully tubbed. Thats #1.
#2 dont guess your cars weight. Consider every gallon of fluid you carry is approx 8 lbs etc. Most people think their vehicles are a lot light than actuality. The guy with the Mustang I think you are way off. Here is the cheapest way to weigh your car. Find a major recycling center closest to you that pays for paper goods recycling by the pound. Fill your trunk w/ paper. They will weigh you with a full load and then when you leave and the recipt will give both weights...so you will will have the weight of your car with you in it and those scales are very very acurate. If you bring enough newspaper you may get enough $$$ back to pay for the trip in Gas. I did this with several cars incliding my friends 86 mustang LX. Ok ready 3529lbs! with him in it. Now he weghied 215 lbs. do the math 3314 for a stock LX. If you add a tubbed rear end and all that tire no way you getting below 3K.
#3 the guy with the elky. sounds like a nice car. But why make you car not as fun top drive stripping it for a 350 hp motor to have a fun quick car. Spend an extra 1500-2000 bucks and get a big block and then you dont have to strip that car a much and it will remain fun to drive down the track or out with the woman.
Again Im not trying to offend anyone but I stripped the hell out of one of my cars. I pulled off anything that didnt make it steer, brake or accelerate. When I was done I felt like I was driving inside of a coke can. I put itall back pulled the motor, put in a bigger motor and went just a fast. Point is speed and acceleration can be had either of two ways, a real light car or better yet a more powerful motor. How many times have you gone to the track to see a guy in a Nova, Mustang, Camaro, Chevelle on a 10.5" tire pull the front wheels off the gound,or pull down a time in the 12 second range or even less...this on a car with a full interior and then he drives it home. It can be done, just need the power to do it. JMO
Yeah, but if I wanted a smooth quite ride, I would buy a Lexus, or similar. We build these rockets for the sounds, smells, and feel.
The other problem with weight is breakage. To get all that metal moving it puts more strain on engines and driveline components.
GM discovered this when they built the very first muscle car. Take the biggest engine you've got and shove it in the lightest body. Instant performance. It is also why Chryler went to aluminum front ends, plexiglass side windows, and lightweight van seats in some of the Hemi's in the 60's. AND THEY HAD ALOT OF HP GOING, but they wanted more performance, so the cars went on a diet.
Were they as quiet as Grandmas 4 door Coronado? Nope, but they weren't supposed to be.
Material used, interior, motor, drivetrain, AC, glass, wheels, tires, a lot of things could affect it. I'm not sure on the insides and outsides of each though.Quote:
Originally posted by drg84
I dont know if this has been answered yet, but according to the registration on my old 89 Mustang LX with a 2.3L, that car weighed 3018lbs. I dont know if it will be that much more with a 5.0L, but I would say add 200lbs to that for the small-block. Its kind of odd too, cause my 82 cutlass only weighed 3200lbs itself. Someone care to fill me in here?:confused:
Well said Don. We also sometimes do not have the money or opportunity to buy the BB. If someone is incapable of installing it, there is an extra couple hundred getting it put in, along with the new components to slap on it.Quote:
Originally posted by Itoldyouso
Yeah, but if I wanted a smooth quite ride, I would buy a Lexus, or similar. We build these rockets for the sounds, smells, and feel.
The other problem with weight is breakage. To get all that metal moving it puts more strain on engines and driveline components.
GM discovered this when they built the very first muscle car. Take the biggest engine you've got and shove it in the lightest body. Instant performance. It is also why Chryler went to aluminum front ends, plexiglass side windows, and lightweight van seats in some of the Hemi's in the 60's. AND THEY HAD ALOT OF HP GOING, but they wanted more performance, so the cars went on a diet.
Were they as quiet as Grandmas 4 door Coronado? Nope, but they weren't supposed to be.
I am not running a bbc because i don't want one. plain and simple. I've never had the desire for a BBC when i can have fun and enjoy myself with the cheaper, easier built, and less time consuming SBC.
I'm trying to shed 600 pounds or so of body fat so that once i get the luxury things in it I'm not too damn heavy.
The problem with building more power is that power = money and it's a lot more practical to dump your money where it is needed.
Examples: Motor, build it for power, Suspension, build it for hookup, brakes, build them to stop fast, tires, buy them to grip, tranny, build it to stand up to the motor, ect. and so on and so forth.
When going fast, the above items come first. THEN if your not happy, then you have a good power train to build a nice ride out of.
I guess what i'm trying to say in whole is that unless you can afford to light 100 dollar bills on fire and toss them out the window, the mechanical aspect of the vehicle (motor, trans, rearend, brakes, suspension) come before comfort and looks. It's pointless to have a drag car that looks good and runs like shit because you were more concerned with how it looks and feels.
I'll build that BBC for my elky, put a full interior in it, run a 10.5 wide tire, and drive it home...just as soon as i get the check in the mail from you to pay for it :)
Don't think i don't like your post because you have a good point, its just not a point that fits me. The elky IS a nice car, it will ALWAYS be a nice car. I don't have the heart to chop and butcher a beauty but my first concern is making it go fast...looking good will come later. Nothing i do will be missed. I'm coming back with factory interior, ect. I won't be drilling wholes or making my elky feel like a "soda can." that's not my style