This one is shoot higher, shows good relatioships of 6" drop axle, frame & motor.
Looks like plenty of room for Drag link, cross bar etc.
Thanks again,
Joe
Printable View
This one is shoot higher, shows good relatioships of 6" drop axle, frame & motor.
Looks like plenty of room for Drag link, cross bar etc.
Thanks again,
Joe
Looking from here it sure looks like a do-able deal.
Your motor mount looks to be farther back than the motor mounts in my cars.
I think too the steering box U-joint will nestle under the motor mount tube without a problem and without hanging down too low.
Looking at this pic of my 31 and comparing it to your above pic, it appears your engine is set back further on the chassis than mine.
The long engine bay of your Plymouth is a big help.
For those who are curious, my 31 has a 4" recess, but there's still plenty of legroom. (I'm 6' tall and have a 32" inseam.)
The length of the 31's hood top is 32 3/8" measured down the middle.
(Rootlieb will build custom length hoods for a moderate extra price.)
Fwiw, stock A & 32 hoods measured the same way are:
27-28 A = 27 3/4"
30-31 A = 31 5/8"
32 . . . = 32"
This pic shows just how far forward my balancer is.
No pulley at the time of the pic.
Hey guys...sorry to open up an old post but had a question on the DRAGLINK orientation as viewed from above. I see most of the above images show the draglink running pretty parallel to to the tie rod (as viewed from above)...how much misalignment can you go? I'm running a custom frame on my project and if I use the "STOCK" 6" long pitman arm, it places the steering box right where my radiator should be! I have plenty of room to move the box more towards the firewall but it ends up with a 10* angle from the pitman arm to the spindle arm. Would this work or should I do some more "engineering"? --Thanks!
The "ideal" is to have the drag link parallel in both vertical and horizontal plains. The vertical is most important because of the inputs from following a different arc when the axle deflects up and down. Since the pittman arm end is essentially fixed to the frame, starting at "0" minimizes variance in reaction. What you're asking about in the "from above" sounds like you're asking about the horizontal. Pete & Jakes advises the pittman arm end not be more than 6" back from the tie rod. Personally that seems like a lot to me, but have no engineering principle to challenge it. My preference is to have multiple "actuators", for want of a better term, working in a similar way to avoid conflicting movements so I move the steering box and/or bend the pitman arm to get to that point.