Printable View
can anyone explane the difference between a 1 wire altinator ,and mine a 3 wires comming from it , or what would really help me is if anyone knows of any sites that have basic wire diagrams, for the charging system, starter etc i need to understand where the wires go .
i have a motor im going to fire up on a stand and just need simple diagram for ing switch, hei,starter, altanator,battery.
thanks
Quote:
Originally posted by blewbyou2
can anyone explane the difference between a 1 wire altinator ,and mine a 3 wires comming from it , or what would really help me is if anyone knows of any sites that have basic wire diagrams, for the charging system, starter etc i need to understand where the wires go .
i have a motor im going to fire up on a stand and just need simple diagram for ing switch, hei,starter, altanator,battery.
thanks
if all you gonna do is start it on the stand all you need to do as far as wires go is 1 -12 volt wire to the + on the HEI dist. from the bat.
a big ground from the bat. to the motor
a big hot wire to the big post on the starter solenoid
take screw driver and cross over the big starter wire to the"S" on the solenoid to get the motor to turn over then take it off when the motor starts. you can put a push button sw. there if you like
put some gas in it, time it and it should run.
thats all you need to make it run.
i dont think i left out anything.
if you are gonna run it any amount of time you need to hook up a radiator
you can use jumper cables from the bat. to the motor as the 2 big wires
Don't forget to put a switch in the 12v to the distributor so you can disconnect it to shut the engine down. Runaway engines are no fun.
you can put a toggle sw. going to the dist. if you like blewbyou2 but alligator clips at the bat and dist. works great for me.
:cool: hang loose im drawing you a diagram.
so while i know you guys are here could you explane the diff w/ the 1 wire altanator , im assuming since a total of three wire go to mine , mine is called a 3 wire? i have the big wire that goes to the back then 2 that go into the top in a din type plug , is the 1 wire hookup just the wire on the back , my truck is where i cant get to it to see where the two top wires went to ,i just have the altinator mocked up on the engine temporaly, but i would be intrested in changing it out if i can eliminate some wiring
a 3 wire alt has 1-12 ga. wire that's hot all of the time (from the bat.) that goes to the post on the back of the alt. in the plug you have 2 wires 1 about 14 ga. and one that's about 18 ga. (the little one) the big one in the plug is hot all of the time 12 volts and the little one is hot when you turn the key on, the little one excites the voltage reg. to get it going. To make your alt a 1 wire alt. do away with the plug, you don't need that anymore. then come off of the 12 volt post at the back of your alt and run yourself a short 12 ga. wire from the post to where the big wire was in the plug. thats all you have to do. when you crank the motor some times you have to idle it up some to get the alt to charge, but ive done that for yrs without a problem. if you don't under stand this let me know and ill get you a diagram. #1-12 volts 12 ga. wire to the big post on back of alt.#2- run a 12ga. wire from the post on the back of the alt to the right hand spade in the top of the alt. or the spade where the big wire came from in the plug in the top of the alt. don't take but a min. :cool:Quote:
Originally posted by blewbyou2
so while i know you guys are here could you explane the diff w/ the 1 wire altanator , im assuming since a total of three wire go to mine , mine is called a 3 wire? i have the big wire that goes to the back then 2 that go into the top in a din type plug , is the 1 wire hookup just the wire on the back , my truck is where i cant get to it to see where the two top wires went to ,i just have the altinator mocked up on the engine temporaly, but i would be intrested in changing it out if i can eliminate some wiring
THANKS I understand ,big wire on the back to the big wire on the top, then link it to the battery
here is a pic.Quote:
Originally posted by blewbyou2
THANKS I understand ,big wire on the back to the big wire on the top, then link it to the battery
blewbyou2 i am assuming you have a built in voltage reg. alt. if you got a older truck with a external voltage reg. then this wont work. you can replace the old alt. with one that has the built in reg. and then just run the one wire and that will work. **) **)
like i said i cant get to the truck to see where those 2 top wires are going to at the moment , and i know there is not one in the eng compartment ,so unless they hid one under the dash , its internal
whats the difference between60- 80-100-120 amp ratings , is that how fast they can charge the battery back up , or is it dependant on how many accesorys you have to run it all at the same time
if the plug is long and flat then its built in.Quote:
Originally posted by blewbyou2
like i said i cant get to the truck to see where those 2 top wires are going to at the moment , and i know there is not one in the eng compartment ,so unless they hid one under the dash , its internal
whats the difference between60- 80-100-120 amp ratings , is that how fast they can charge the battery back up , or is it dependant on how many accesorys you have to run it all at the same time
blewbyou2Quote:
Originally posted by blewbyou2
can anyone explane the difference between a 1 wire altinator ,and mine a 3 wires comming from it , or what would really help me is if anyone knows of any sites that have basic wire diagrams, for the charging system, starter etc i need to understand where the wires go .
i have a motor im going to fire up on a stand and just need simple diagram for ing switch, hei,starter, altanator,battery.
thanks
Go and read here:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml
It will give you a great understanding of how things work together
Pat
you can do what every you wont to blewbyou2 but i have and know other people that have run them the way i said with no problems, at no extra cost, and best i can tell this guy is selling 5.00 worth of wire for 28.00 plus shiping with no advantage that i can see. if you want to have the light its no big deal. if they was selling alt. they wouldnt be making 25.00 profit on each one, so hes makes more money by selling wire kits. :cool:
I only posted the Mad site because there is a lot of good tech info there that explains how things work.
its some good stuff in there stu, but someone that don't understand auto. electrical wiring may not be able to separate the good stuff from the bull crap. i know a little about wiring and the way i read it, if you didnt have this kit then you are gonna mess something up. blewbyou2 has got the factory wiring and from what i understood he wanted someone to tell him how to eliminate some wiring and what i told him is the only way i know how to eliminate any wiring from a 3 wire alt. and use his old alt. it will work just fine that way. **) **)
hey stu , i was talking to a guy last nite , that said there is a guy in marysville , that paints his cars ,good job with good prices ,do you know of him?
No problem Mike, I understand where you're coming from.
blewbyou2, I know of several good painters in Marysville/Yuba City, Claude Dejeu, Ken's Custom Auto Body, Dave Polney and R&D Rod and Custom all do excellent work. Some are faster, some are a little cheaper, some do ultra meticulous work, at least one is a little peculiar, but I would not hestitate to have any of them work on my car. If one of those guys sounds like the one I can get you contact info
Pat
well , i decided to just buy another unit , i couldnt see using a old 10si i think 60amp and spending 20 bucks to bead blast it , when im pretty sure im going to use a electric fan , so i looked around and found the newer cs-130 100+ AMP already setup w/one wire connection AND LIFETIME WARR.
for 60 buck delivered.
thanks for the help , learned alot about alternators, even learned how to spell the word right LOL
stu i'll find out who this guy was talking about and get back to ya
Quote:
Originally posted by blewbyou2
well , i decided to just buy another unit , i couldnt see using a old 10si i think 60amp and spending 20 bucks to bead blast it , when im pretty sure im going to use a electric fan , so i looked around and found the newer cs-130 100+ AMP already setup w/one wire connection AND LIFETIME WARR.
for 60 buck delivered.
thanks for the help , learned alot about alternators, even learned how to spell the word right LOL
stu i'll find out who this guy was talking about and get back to ya
i agree,way to go :cool: i still cant spell it. :confused:
Hey! 100 amps for $60 is a good deal. I am planning to run an electric fan myself so I will need a lot of amps. Can you reveal the source of your deal?
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
zwolfman@aol.com ebay auction #7959938294
so are you saying the cs-130 is a poor design ?
my thought was that the unit was a newer more modern design compared to the olders bigger units, i mean isn't that what the gm engineers were paid to do ?
are you saying they can be built to last if the right parts are used?
you said 88-94 is that all the yrs the cs-130 was made , or the yrs with the prone problems.
the one i bought has lifetime warrenty but , its pretty worthless if its going to eat me alive having to ship it around the country all the time
DennyW, thanks for the enlightenment. I would guess I will need 130 or 140 amps if I run an electric fan in a July 4th parade with a SBC 350 and a "Cobra" '29 radiator. I am willing to pay for a quality unit, what do you recommend?
Don Shillady
Retired SCientist/teen rodder
i was assured that this is a high quality alt, and that they sell 3000+ units per yr to dealers.
he said in his opinion that the cs-130 with all the avalable parts for it these days, is one of the most reliable alt out there.
idont think gm would have left a very poorly designed product on the market for a decade .
but i agree any part is only as good as the person who built it or rebuilt it.
didnt mean to step on any toes, if you have been doing this for 20+ yrs ,you know what the heck your talking about .:)
I would have to agree with DennyW on this. When I need a good alternator I generally try to get one built from a local builder. Mostly because of what he has said. the big discount parts stores send out there stuff to cheapest bidder and get a different builder every couple of years. And I would also agree that Autozone is the worst. As a mechanic I don't install alternators from most of these places. I don't mind NAPA electrical because they've had the same rebuilder for more than 50 years, and I seem to have the least problems with theirs. The problem is that most don't actually rebuild their alternators, they just replace what they think it needs. In this case they often times miss bad bearings and voltage regulators. All they do is run a bench test, which often times tells them that it's a good unit, but doesn't test for other problems. NAPA Rayloc alternators are not tested like this and in their preium lines that actually replace all the bearings, the voltage regs, etc., even if they don't appear to need them. This is not a good guarantee either though. These parts then get shipped acroos the country to a warehouse, then pulled by some joe who doesn't care and thrown into a basket, then possibly pulled by a minimum wage driver who throws it into the back of the truck, well you get the idea. Handling is an important part of the equation also. When I need one that I know is gong to work, I go to a local rebuilder I like and have it done. Then I don't worry about it as much. Sorry for the ramblin', but I've replaced many a discount unit over and over and over. Just make sure you're dealing with a reputable company. It doesn't matter how cheap it was if you have to change it every 3 months.
well after 16 days i finally got the alternator ,is is the email i sent the guy after i got it today
well i finally got the alt after 16 days, i was going to let it go i know everyone has things to do , BUT im not reall happy with the alternator now that its here , first i noticed the fan rubbing the front of the case, not a big deal , then i noticed that ,who ever supposably rebuilt it didnt even take the time to take a little contact cleaner and clean the windings, it is full of black dust, then i noticed that its not even a true one wire hook up regulator, its just jumpered from the din plug on the top over to the battery output bolt, whats the deal ? if you want to make this right let me know , i'd like to hear what you have to say , before i leave feedback , i know your ad says no return's so im stuck with it , but i can certainly leave a link in your feedback to my web site with pics of the way i received this thing
let me know, if i dont hear from you in a day i'll assume im not
Doug,
let me know what you think (go ahead rub it in and say i told you so):(
hey by the way moderator if you read this for some reason when i log on it says your IP ADDRESS has been baned?
i dont think i pissed anyone off but who knows? LOL
i know its not what you bought, but it still might work ok. :cool:Quote:
Originally posted by blewbyou2
well after 16 days i finally got the alternator ,is is the email i sent the guy after i got it today
well i finally got the alt after 16 days, i was going to let it go i know everyone has things to do , BUT im not reall happy with the alternator now that its here , first i noticed the fan rubbing the front of the case, not a big deal , then i noticed that ,who ever supposably rebuilt it didnt even take the time to take a little contact cleaner and clean the windings, it is full of black dust, then i noticed that its not even a true one wire hook up regulator, its just jumpered from the din plug on the top over to the battery output bolt, whats the deal ? if you want to make this right let me know , i'd like to hear what you have to say , before i leave feedback , i know your ad says no return's so im stuck with it , but i can certainly leave a link in your feedback to my web site with pics of the way i received this thing
let me know, if i dont hear from you in a day i'll assume im not
Doug,
let me know what you think (go ahead rub it in and say i told you so):(
dont take it personelly, a lot of people is getting that message. **)Quote:
Originally posted by blewbyou2
hey by the way moderator if you read this for some reason when i log on it says your IP ADDRESS has been baned?
i dont think i pissed anyone off but who knows? LOL
just talked to my freind and got that name he is R&D ROD AND CUSTOM Ray Carter, what can you tell me about himQuote:
Originally posted by Stu Cool
No problem Mike, I understand where you're coming from.
blewbyou2, I know of several good painters in Marysville/Yuba City, Claude Dejeu, Ken's Custom Auto Body, Dave Polney and R&D Rod and Custom all do excellent work. Some are faster, some are a little cheaper, some do ultra meticulous work, at least one is a little peculiar, but I would not hestitate to have any of them work on my car. If one of those guys sounds like the one I can get you contact info
Pat
thats not me we got to many mikes.Quote:
Originally posted by blewbyou2
just talked to my freind and got that name he is R&D ROD AND CUSTOM Ray Carter, what can you tell me about him
yea i know , i can see where he changed the diodes or whatever they are , , BUT if he didnt take the time to even clean it up , that tells me whaT KIND of care went into rebuilding it , plus the regulator is jumpered over the top , :CRY: so i cant really say where i'll keep it , or stick it up his you know what!Quote:
Originally posted by lt1s10
i know its not what you bought, but it still might work ok. :cool:
you could have jumped the one you had for nothing.:HMMM:Quote:
Originally posted by blewbyou2
yea i know , i can see where he changed the diodes or whatever they are , , BUT if he didnt take the time to even clean it up , that tells me whaT KIND of care went into rebuilding it , plus the regulator is jumpered over the top , :CRY: so i cant really say where i'll keep it , or stick it up his you know what!
EXACTLY!Quote:
Originally posted by lt1s10
you could have jumped the one you had for nothing.:HMMM:
now where did i put that drawing?:DQuote:
Originally posted by blewbyou2
EXACTLY!
Ray does excellent work! I never regarded him as cheap. Reasonable and fair might be better terms. Here's a picture of his personal truck. He is an excellent craftsman. His shop is about 4 blocks from my house. His number is (530) 743-7637.Quote:
Originally posted by blewbyou2
just talked to my freind and got that name he is R&D ROD AND CUSTOM Ray Carter, what can you tell me about him
notice the Nitrous bottle
SWEET!