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Just installed my new front bumper on my 66 Nova II and reinstalled the parking lights. For some reason, the parking lights will not come on. The headlights, taillights, instrument panel all come on okay. Also the turn signals work okay ??
I checked the fuses, all look okay...I unplugged the wiring harness from the park lights and check the connector there...no voltage. What I supsect is that I have a bad headlight switch?
Any ideas, or similar problems??
Sgt Steve
make sure you got good grounds and then the next place to check would be the sw. if there is voltage coming in and going out of the sw. i'll be somewhere in between, if not, its the sw. do the rear p/lights work? there is a 1 hot wire for the park and 1 hot wire for the head lights going into the sw. so dont check it and think 1 hot wire is all you need. **)Quote:
Originally posted by SgtSteve
Just installed my new front bumper on my 66 Nova II and reinstalled the parking lights. For some reason, the parking lights will not come on. The headlights, taillights, instrument panel all come on okay. Also the turn signals work okay ??
I checked the fuses, all look okay...I unplugged the wiring harness from the park lights and check the connector there...no voltage. What I supsect is that I have a bad headlight switch?
Any ideas, or similar problems??
Sgt Steve
I forgot to mention that they did work at one time. I haven't tried turning on the headlights in awhile, because there has never been a need to, and I haven't driven it at night. I remember in the past, the headlights didn't come on and I had to jiggle the switch a little before they would come on. I do have a simplified wiring diagram in one of my manuals, and it shows two different color power wires, one going to the rear taillamps, and the other to the front park lamps. I tried checking for voltage at the headlight switch, and couldn't detect any voltage on the wire supposedly going to the park lights. I did measure voltage on the other 3 wires ??
on the supposedly p/light wire use a jumper. if you' ve got 3 hot wires coming in then that should be all you need. i cant tell you what color wire goes to the park so youer on your own there, but with every thing on all of the wires in the switch should be hot,(except the ground) if not take a jumper wire and jump to the wires in the switch until you find the parks lights wire. if you cant get the p/lghts to light up with a jumper then the problem is between the sw. and lights. :whacked:Quote:
Originally posted by SgtSteve
I forgot to mention that they did work at one time. I haven't tried turning on the headlights in awhile, because there has never been a need to, and I haven't driven it at night. I remember in the past, the headlights didn't come on and I had to jiggle the switch a little before they would come on. I do have a simplified wiring diagram in one of my manuals, and it shows two different color power wires, one going to the rear taillamps, and the other to the front park lamps. I tried checking for voltage at the headlight switch, and couldn't detect any voltage on the wire supposedly going to the park lights. I did measure voltage on the other 3 wires ??
I try to live by the saying, if it's not broke don't try to fix it !Quote:
look if you had problems with the switch before, what on earth did you expect ?...that after a paint job it would go away?....can you say.....Cole-herse?...they make new switches and should be availiable at your local Advance or Auto-zone....$30.00 bucks ?....
The headlight switch appears to be operating, as the headlights are working okay, but maybe a contact has gone bad?
Thanks for the help LT1S10, I will try to jumper the wires when I get home from work. Should have thought of that...
:rolleyes:
I can understand what you're saying...but I would like to know the cause. If I do buy a new switch and then have a problem, then what?? Not trying to waste anyone's time, and whats wrong with someone trying to help another out? For all I know, the switch could have been replaced already...just because its 40 years old doesn't make it bad. If that was the case, I'd be replacing every single original part on the car.
Quote:
Originally posted by csf03716
mike, if he had an existing problem (i had to wiggle it to make it work) before hand, then all the diagnostic/ troubleshootin ain't gonna fix an internal problem with the switch!...comon the thing is 40 plus years old, and after bein "jerked and pulled" for 40 plus years it's tired!....and nothing short of a new switch is gonna solve the situation.....cause its gonna be a constant variable in the circuit...sometimes its good sometimes it ain't...why even risk this for the love of $30.00 and eliminating one big IF....more time will be wasted trying to figure out what the problem might be ...time over money well spent?
that's called parts replacing, it can be diagnosed. i like to know what the actual problem is and then i can give the customer the choice of just fixing what's needed or fixing what's needed and replacing the old switch(it might not be the sw.), but it would be his choice. :cool:
I don't understand what all the frustration is about...but nevertheless, I would want to know "why" before I replaced the part regardless of the cost. This certainly isnt the first post I have seen where learning why is more important than the solution. If we have this strategy, when does it change?....$100.00?...$200.00?
Light switches have caused more guys (and gals too) to drink than one would think. But they are very simple if you slow down and test them correctly.
First there is a power in...Make sure it is delivering solid power. Next, with the power only connected, measure the voltage on all the contacts. As you move the switch in & out voltage will move from contact to contact. As you measure the current, you will be able to identify which posts are designed for which purpose (headlights, parking, tailights, etc). If you find a faulty post (no current) then your switch is faulty and go spend your $30. But check it first...you may simply have a poor connection or wires connected on the wrong post. And that is what I would bet on given the "jiggle" comment earlier.
Remember guys, this is supposed to be fun with cars!
I'll go buy a switch and install it ! enough already!
I really would like to know the problem though...I do not REPEAT do not have to wiggle the switch anymore in order for it to work.
You pull it and all the lights come on except the parking lights whether I wiggle it or not. It may be the switch or may not be and if it is the switch at least I learned something and I don't have a problem with spending the money for a new one.
Do you go out and buy a new watch because the second hand stopped moving, but still keeps good time?
It is my belief that you have a bad ground,,,unless you can isolate the proper circuit at the switch and prove otherwise i would look for bad Ground.
Also,,when you pull your switch to the on position, the first in circuit will be the parking lamps, i would unscrew the dash switch and hold it in by hand while having the junction block connected, and then pull to the first position and put a simple test light on the wires, or the contacts while keeping the junction block connected( you should be able to get the test lamp probe behind each spade connection.(Hopefully you have a wiring diagram for the head light switch)
Also your parking lamp circuit is on a whole different circuit from the head lights,,,your headlights are powered via the dash switch and then down to the headlight relay.
while your parking lamps are straight powered from the switch.
I also seem to remember the turn signal assembly in the column causing short circuits on those nova's.
:whacked:
This is what I said....the keyword is past. And the parking lights worked at this time. I will pull the switch and check voltages this afternoon and that should determine if it's good or bad.Quote:
I remember in the past, the headlights didn't come on and I had to jiggle the switch a little before they would come on.
I do not believe it's a ground or loose connection, due to the fact I haven't disconnected any connections other than the parking lights themselves and tried unplugging and plugging them back in several times.
Steve
Then i guess it's the switch then
the only reason i have worked on cars for the last 40 yrs. is WHY. i worked at UPS and we couldnt fix nothing, we had to replace, didnt like it at all. i built a good size bus. by fixing stuff and making recomdations, not replacing parts. charley you gonna bring me your car with no park lights and i call you at work later on and tell you im gonna put a sw. no it, but that might not fix it, but thats a good a place to start, and you going to say thats ok thats 40.00 anywway . i wish i would of had more customers like you over the yrs. life would have been a lot more simpler. if you understand a light sw. then it would take but a min to check, why not? and the wiggle test is more than likely a bad plug and the sw. wouldnt fix it no way . JMO :HMMM:Quote:
Originally posted by SgtSteve
This is what I said....the keyword is past. And the parking lights worked at this time. I will pull the switch and check voltages this afternoon and that should determine if it's good or bad.
I do not believe it's a ground or loose connection, due to the fact I haven't disconnected any connections other than the parking lights themselves and tried unplugging and plugging them back in several times.
Steve
ps- it probably is the sw. but im gonna know.
Quote:
Originally posted by csf03716
BINGO!
the only way you'er gonna get a light sw. put on that car by me, if its not bad, is tell me to put one on it. everybody dont think like you charley. if i had that car it wouldnt take but a few min to tell the man all he needed to know. **)
Couldna said it better myself,,,
im gonna spend about 5 min, on diagnosing the car and fix it in book time, make a little money, then go to the next job. im gonna know whats wrong with it. i dont know what you are talking about. youer the one thats taking a whack at it not me. i didnt run up and down the road on the mustang for 2 weeks he did, if i had worked on it, i would have fixed it the first time. let it go, thats your opinion and this is mine. if you think working on your buddies cars behind the house is the same as running a busy shop, then youer wrong. i have to win their trust first and you dont do that by putting stuff on they dont need. i told him how to check the sw. if he wonts to , if not fine. :confused:Quote:
Originally posted by csf03716
YEAH OK MIKE ...I GET YOUR DRIFT....ONE DAY ONE CAR...... EH COOTER!...country bumpkin auto repair at its finest...WHAT EVER MIKE!...just like the mustang with the bad ignition switch...right?...take 2 weeks and numerous trips to your shop to finally replace it cause you just won't believe it was possible....fwaaaap!:LOL:
good for you. :cool:Quote:
Originally posted by csf03716
ok mike what ever you say...i know i aint got the biggest shop in mayberry liken ya self...but i don't have to "win"their trust they just trust my judgement without question..... :rolleyes:
Dang guys its just a $20 switch.
Now being a Ford man I have to question the tail lights & headlights being on the same circuit. My 61 F100 turns the park lights off when the headlights come on, factory. The tail lights of course stay on. I know Ford did this up into the late 60's on the trucks, assumed cars were the same.
Best I remember by buddies 64 Chevy 1/2 ton did the same. So I ask, are the park lights on with the headlights on a 66 Nova or not. If not this makes the switch more likely in my mind.
Quote:
Originally posted by Primer
Dang guys its just a $20 switch.
Now being a Ford man I have to question the tail lights & headlights being on the same circuit.
Excuse me meant tail lights & park lights. Not questioning you Denny, just questioning if that year of car would have them on a sepperate circuit. I agree with your test, just thought if they are sepperate, a bad switch would be easier to understand.
it dont make no dif. whether the park lights burn with the head lights or not, you still need to check before replacing. why do these people have a problem with sombody checking to see whats wrong before replacing something that might not be needed? blows my mind. it can be checked in a few min. check it. unless they dont know how to check it . this is about the 3rd time ive been told how dumb it was to check something when all you had to do was replace it. the man knew he could replace it he wonted to how to check it. :rolleyes: :confused:Quote:
Originally posted by DennyW
Dang Primer, go back and read what I said slowly, and you will see I didn't say that. Plus, he has a Chevy. I also have A ford. :LOL:
Okay,
First off, I want to say thanks for all your help. I got the problem fixed, it turned out to be a dirty connection, but wouldn't have known otherwise. The park lights only come on when the switch is pulled part way out, they go off when the switch is pulled all the way out and the headlights come on. The switch is good, and all is well. Saved me a little money, but more importantly I got the problem solved and learned something in the process (get better wiring diagrams!)
Second, I received alot of flak over this thread and I'm sorry to start an argument over this. I think that LT1S10 has my same kind of view on understanding the problem first and then buy the parts required to fix it. I don't mind constructive comments, but I don't like the "shotgun" approach of fixing things. After replacing alot of low cost parts, can add up rather quickly. I was told that my inline 6 needed to be rebuilt when I bought it because the oil looked like it had some water in it. I changed the oil and did some minor tweaking here and there...and it runs strong and excellent!
It doesn't burn oil and doesn't smoke at all, the coolant has remained full after flushing the radiator and block.
Sgt Steve
thats the way it works. check it, fix as needed. :cool:Quote:
Originally posted by SgtSteve
Okay,
First off, I want to say thanks for all your help. I got the problem fixed, it turned out to be a dirty connection, but wouldn't have known otherwise. The park lights only come on when the switch is pulled part way out, they go off when the switch is pulled all the way out and the headlights come on. The switch is good, and all is well. Saved me a little money, but more importantly I got the problem solved and learned something in the process (get better wiring diagrams!)
Second, I received alot of flak over this thread and I'm sorry to start an argument over this. I think that LT1S10 has my same kind of view on understanding the problem first and then buy the parts required to fix it. I don't mind constructive comments, but I don't like the "shotgun" approach of fixing things. After replacing alot of low cost parts, can add up rather quickly. I was told that my inline 6 needed to be rebuilt when I bought it because the oil looked like it had some water in it. I changed the oil and did some minor tweaking here and there...and it runs strong and excellent!
It doesn't burn oil and doesn't smoke at all, the coolant has remained full after flushing the radiator and block.
Sgt Steve
Gentlemen, in the electronics industry they are referred to as "Black Box Technicians. They wouldn't know the first step in troubleshooting. I proved that theory on a Westinghouse main electrical buss control unit for a DC-10 back in '72 when I worked for McDonnell Douglas Aircraft in Long Beach. Really irritated an engineer when he was proven wrong.
I couldn't agree with you more Charlie, I just think troubleshooting, especially electrical problems is becoming a lost art. :)Quote:
Originally posted by csf03716
ok let me explain why when i work on my few customers cars i take the approach that they and myself do....we are all commuters...who travel by coach...some prefer to drive.. to New York city 200 mile round trip...5 days a week....16 hour day on average.....when you only have 2 days off...sat and sun..and when it comes time for service..your sat is pretty much shot if you have to wait at a shop for anything!....now, if someone brings their car to my garage, they know that there is no pressure, that anything and everything on their mind will be looked at.....if im doing front pads, and they have 4000 miles on a 5000 oil change schedule do you think they're gonna say "oh no i got another 1000 miles on that oil and filter, i"ll come back next week"...and i say..."but next week i have the O'Connors coming in!"...ok do it now while its up in the air...."oh and how close are we to a tranny service?"...."well sh*t, im already here and your going for parts(about an hour round trip)..lets getta done so i don't loose another sat for a while...do you understand what im saying?...its like...when you open the hood to do a cap and plugs...well what evers suspect or near time to do...you do it now regardless of wether its not "broke yet"....it truely is a preventive maintenace service by putting the odds in their favor, that they have piece of mind, knowing that theres less likely a chance something will just break...so its a lifestyle that you adapt to, time is precious and most of us earn 75to 100 thou a year so its money well spent versus down time in a waiting room every other saturday...i hope this clears up why i take the position that i do on certain matters...no harm to anyone/no foul...:toocool:
Glad to hear you got the gremlin in the bag,,,,and i was thinking back to the last time i pulled the switch on an old chevy nova,,,i seem to remember they where realy simple to rebuild.
But then i've alway's rebuilt my own stuff rather than replace with new anyway,,,,,,you don't learn nothin by pulling and replacing as new.
there is harm and foul when you go off the deep end every time I suggest to somebody about fixing something compared to replacing it. looks like Mayberry may have been right on this one. i might be country and a hick, but I'm a country hick that knows more about fixing cars than a certain city slicker i know. so I'm gonna say it one more time, if you don't have anything good to say to me, then keep it to your self. SgtSteve this don't have anything to do with you, charley does this every time he suggest something and everybody don't agree with him. i though this was a open forum where everybody could give an opinion without it getting personal, but i guess not. when the day comes that I don't know what's wrong with something before i start replacing parts then that's the day ill stop working on cars. :rolleyes: **) **)Quote:
Originally posted by csf03716
ok let me explain why when i work on my few customers cars i take the approach that they and myself do....we are all commuters...who travel by coach...some prefer to drive.. to New York city 200 mile round trip...5 days a week....16 hour day on average.....when you only have 2 days off...sat and sun..and when it comes time for service..your sat is pretty much shot if you have to wait at a shop for anything!....now, if someone brings their car to my garage, they know that there is no pressure, that anything and everything on their mind will be looked at.....if im doing front pads, and they have 4000 miles on a 5000 oil change schedule do you think they're gonna say "oh no i got another 1000 miles on that oil and filter, i"ll come back next week"...and i say..."but next week i have the O'Connors coming in!"...ok do it now while its up in the air...."oh and how close are we to a tranny service?"...."well sh*t, im already here and your going for parts(about an hour round trip)..lets getta done so i don't loose another sat for a while...do you understand what im saying?...its like...when you open the hood to do a cap and plugs...well what evers suspect or near time to do...you do it now regardless of wether its not "broke yet"....it truely is a preventive maintenace service by putting the odds in their favor, that they have piece of mind, knowing that theres less likely a chance something will just break...so its a lifestyle that you adapt to, time is precious and most of us earn 75to 100 thou a year so its money well spent versus down time in a waiting room every other saturday...i hope this clears up why i take the position that i do on certain matters...no harm to anyone/no foul...:toocool:
Like i said,,,,you dont learn diddly squat from just replacing parts.
Maybee i'm old fashioned too,,,but i get the damn job done and i dont have any come backs.
Rebuilding is getting to be a lost art because we are becoming more of a throw away society,,,,hell,,,,i'm having enough problems finding brake booster rebuild kit's on my side of the fence,,,,,,and fuel pump rebuild kit's,,,,,seem's they,,, whoever they are!!! dont think us old boy's know how to do our own work anymore,,,,,,,the kids at the parts store just give me a blank look when i mosey in there expecting to find stuff we had plenty of just 30 years ago,,,,,and it just Ticks me of to no end.
While i'm on about this,,,,( i'm moving this question over to another section,,,,,) do any of you work at a rebuilders,,,,say for fuel pumps and brake boosters and such,,,,,cos i need a line in,,, to find the kits i need.