Which Brand Harness ?

Looking for input. I plan on rewiring the '55 and the '73 Ford Trucks soon, and while I'm at it, get a harness for the '40 Plymouth. Which is the best way to go; Both trucks are getting 12 or 18 circuits (don't need them all, but just in case) and the Plymouth is going to get 21. Probably won't need them all right away :D , but just be available. EZ-wiring, Painless wiring, other (please specify). Making my own is no longer an option, I started and got tired of hunting down ends. I'm leaning towards EZ, but would like input. If I'm buying three, I want them to be effective and simple :LOL: , like me.

Thanks

Matt

Whatever you buy, here are some simple guidelines to prevent grief later.

WIRE TYPES: Make sure the wire is TXL or SXL rated. The insulation is good to 257 F. Painless calls it "extreme duty" or something like that. The wire type will be molded or printed on the wire at some interval. IF you are buying bulk wire, you will see the following types (to list a few):

TXL or SXL good for 257F Also called cross-link insulation. Small volumes of 16 ga costs about 5.5 cents per foot.

Primary wire: good to 194F Has a PVC jacket. Costs about 5.5 cents per foot in small quantities

RVI this is RV wire and has a thermoplastic jacket. Oil gets to it. Good for 221 F Costs about 5.5 cents per foot in low quantity

Marine Grade Has a PVC jacket and is oil resistant. Good to about 221F Usually more expensive

TFFN
THHN either type not typicaly good for auto use.

Unmarked wire The is the PEP Boys special. Dont use! Cheap insulation from large country where English is not the primary language.

Painless harnesses use the best cross linked wire.

Get a harness that uses blade type fuses (ATO) instead of glass type.

DO NOT use crimp splices unless you have a real ratchet tool. PERIOD. Using amp pliers will not make a good connection and you will be laying upside down under the dash trying to find the #%@$# loose terminal. Solder all connections or splices and cover with heatshrink.

Premade wiring harnesses cost a bundle so dont skrimp in the installation or the small parts.

good luck

mike in tucson

I've used both Ron Francis & Painless. Both were good but I preferred the Painless. Their Tech Support is superb! VERY understanding & patient with guys like me who are electrically challenged!:rolleyes:

I have used Ron Francis (project going now) and Painless previously. I have to say that painless is less expensive in the long and short run. Just as easy if not easier (the fuse block end is terminated already). You get the same stuff if not more with Painless. I went with Ron Francis couls I always wanted to, but couldnt afford it once. Now ?, I still like painless better.
Just my .02 cents.

Brand spanken' new here...

I am just getting restarted on my painless kit. I was debating solder vs. crimps and any tips???

What is a ratchet tool?(crimper) And where can I get one?

On a little side note:
I just love on American HotRod, American Chopper, Two Guys Garage they never show you how to do anything, they just show you what they are doing...

Thanks
Derek

I used a Painless 18 circuit on my 39 chevy sedan. Very easy to understand, it included a heavier wire for high amp alernators, all the connectors (alt.,coil...) very nice. Did it in a weekend.

I am currently installing an EZ harness. Im not any more familiar with any other brands, but so far, the EZ harness is satisfactory.

Greg

DRock,

DelCity has a bunch of stuff applicable to custom wiring.

Their crimpers are shown at:

http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servl...d=10382&page=1

These folks are very helpful, call them if you have a question. They also sell wire, MetriPak connectors, terminals, etc. The ratchet crimpers are expensive and may be tough to justify for a few crimps.....they do crimp at the proper force and make a superior connector. An alternative is to use "amp" pliers and then solder the connection.

good luck on your wiring

mike in tucson

I used a paneless on my 54 chevy it was nice and the directions was real good I just installed a e-z wiring kit in my 46 it is a real nice kit but the only diff between the 2 is as far as I can see is the direction sheets the paneless is more for someone that has less skill in the wiring department . they both are nice kits .

Thanks for all the input. It makes my decision a little easier. A friend of mine just finished up an ez kit, and said the same thing, the main difference is the instructions. Think I'll go the EZ way.

Matt:)