Thread: broken lug nut
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01-13-2005 06:36 PM #1
broken lug nut
i broke a rear lug nut on my 57 chevy, can it be taken out
with out removing the axle? it looks like there might be
enough room after removing the drum. the rear end is
the original 57 with drum brakes. any one else ever
have this problem if so any tips will help
thanks.
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01-14-2005 07:34 AM #2
I'll take your word for having enough room because I haven't done one of those in enough years to remember that.
Your biggest challenge is pressing out the nub without bending the axle flange (as you probably would with a BFH). The new one could be drawn in with some "spacers" and a lug nut. Given that there's only the four retainer nut/bolts holding the axle in, what are you really saving in time/effort?Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon
It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.
Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.
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01-14-2005 08:56 AM #3
and.....if one broke can the other four be far behind???
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01-14-2005 04:47 PM #4
i used the hammer to knock it out with out removing the axle
then i put spacers behind the nut to press another back in,i hope
i didnt bend the flange,the flange is about 5/8 thick i should
run an indicator around it but i already put the wheel on,and
i dont feel like taking it off again.
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01-14-2005 04:52 PM #5
i have to go to kragens they say they have a one man
brake bleeder for 5.99 i just replaced my rear wheel
cylinders i must see this tool. i think its a peice of
hose with a valve on one end
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01-14-2005 05:41 PM #6
broke nut
the best way is to heat the flange up an then knock out the broken stud
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01-14-2005 07:39 PM #7
yupI can't afford billet.
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01-14-2005 08:06 PM #8
Nope.Jack
Gone to Texas
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01-14-2005 08:11 PM #9
Yup, first the flame wrench, then the hammer
And I bet that one man bleeder is a small one way valve you replace the bleeder screw with then leave it, you'll need four of em to do the whole car, never used em myself but have heard good things about them, let us knowObjects in the mirror are losing
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01-14-2005 08:13 PM #10
I don't use the blue tip wrench for this. Why take a chance on warping the axle flange or messing up the heat treat?Jack
Gone to Texas
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01-14-2005 08:46 PM #11
I'm with Jack on this one. I've never needed heat to get a stud out of an axle, just support the flange and press it out, or punch it out. I have replaced several axles after doing a run out check for folks that had no clue they had a bent axle. Ignorance was bliss for them.Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon
It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.
Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.
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01-14-2005 09:16 PM #12
the only one man bleeder they had was the one i
already have the, little bottle with the 1/4 inch tube
leading into it,your supposed to open the valve and
pump lightly on the pedal until the bottle starts to
fill and there is no air in the lines. i still think it takes
2 but i will try this and see what happens,i have always
done it the old way one person on the brake and me
under the car.
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01-14-2005 09:25 PM #13
For a very small one man operation (Namely me), I don't think you can beat a Mighty Vac.Ken Thomas
NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
The simplest road is usually the last one sought
Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing
Welcome to CHR. I think that you need to hook up your vacuum advance. At part throttle when cruising you have less air and fuel in each cylinder, and the air-fuel mixture is not as densely packed...
MSD 8360 distributor vacuum advance