I have a 84 camaro, with a 305.. lookin to put a 350 in there.. jsut tryin to find a 350 block.. and ill be happy... call 330-784-3117. ask for steve
Printable View
I have a 84 camaro, with a 305.. lookin to put a 350 in there.. jsut tryin to find a 350 block.. and ill be happy... call 330-784-3117. ask for steve
with the amount of 350 available, you should be able to find a 350 either listed it your paper, on E-Bay or the junkyards.
ive called all the junkyards around here.. they are all sold out of 350's, i was even thinkin of maybe fixin up that 305.. any suggestions... i have it keep it emisson friendly.. have a thing called e-check up here.. and also wanna keep the cost down...
No, get a 350. 305's are crap. Keep the 305 until you blow it up and then throw in a 350. Give it some time man you will find one... unless your me and are looking for a car for 2 years and still can't find what you wan't. Maybe I just have bad luck.
Are you lookin for a 2 or 4 bolt 350? I know 4 bolt 350's are "getting" harder to find around here for a decent price but you cant help but find tons of 2 bolts in the local swappers.
Pick up a tradin times or simuliar swapper paper and you should be able to find one. If not drive about 2-3 hours north to up here in detroit and you can find them all over around here for about $100 for a 2 bolt and $200-300 for a 4 bolt.
Or look at the "budget wheels" section of your local paper where they list the cars that are $500 and under...find yourself a older full size chevy and most likely it will have a 350 you can use and then get some of the cash back from the body at the scrap yard.
Camaro,
I have a 350 that I bought from a swap meet about a year ago. I paid $200 for it, tore it apart and had it machined. (It's clean as a whistle now). Unfortunately, the main caps needed some work. By the time I would have paid for that, the rest of the maching, and the intial cost of the motor it wasn't worth it. For $125 it'll send you the motor, intake, and heads plus shipping, just looking to get it out of the garage (got a plymouth flathead V6 and soon to have another 350). I recommend getting new pistons, connecting rods, crank and camshaft. It blew a piston, but I still have the connecting rods, crank and camshaft if you want to get the machined as well.
ok.. cool.. but how much work and money would you think id have tp put into that motor.. to get it runnin?.. if you want.. you can call my cell at 330-328-0718.. my name is steve
Hard to say, depends on what you want to do with it I guess. You might want to call around to some machine shops in your area and see how much it will cost to get the main line bored. That's the only machining that's left to be done on it though. Versus, having to machine the whole thing from a boneyard engine. It's been dipped, the cylinder walls have been cleaned up, and I think there was more but I'm not sure, it looks almost band new though. I would recommend either getting the crankshaft machined as well or getting a new one.
hmm.. aite.. i mite take you up on that.. how much does it usually cost to get that stuff machined?
check ebay. i got lucky and found my just rebuilt tranny on there for 100 bucks. whats really cool was there was no shipping cause he lived 2 mins. from my house.
yea.. ive been lookin on there.. fould one for liek 50-75 bucks.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=34206 what do ya guys think of that? jsut ,let me kno..
Not bad but the only thing is theres still 5 days on that auction left. Dont know how much you use ebay but the price will sky rocket on anything that is a good deal in the last 10 minutes of the auction.
Reason is you will get guys (like myself LOL) that wait till the last few seconds of the auction and tryin "snipe" it from everyone.
Its not uncommon to see something double in price in the last minute of the auction.
If you really want to buy something on ebay the best way to do it is to just decide what the absolute highest price you will pay is and enter that bid then let the proxy bid work for you.
That Ebay motor will probably end up being around 250-350 bucks, being that there are only 8 bids on it but, most ebay aucctions start at 6 days and there are 5 left, yanno 8 bids today, 8 bids tomorrow, it will probably go up pretty quick.
yea.. i know.. that sucks.. o well.. its worth a try
A fellow snipper, Kewl.Quote:
Originally posted by BlownGoat
Not bad but the only thing is theres still 5 days on that auction left. Dont know how much you use ebay but the price will sky rocket on anything that is a good deal in the last 10 minutes of the auction.
Reason is you will get guys (like myself LOL) that wait till the last few seconds of the auction and tryin "snipe" it from everyone.
Its not uncommon to see something double in price in the last minute of the auction.
If you really want to buy something on ebay the best way to do it is to just decide what the absolute highest price you will pay is and enter that bid then let the proxy bid work for you.
:LOL: Yeah i'm not proud of it but if you dont do it then someone else is surely gonna snag what you want.Quote:
Originally posted by pro70z28
A fellow snipper, Kewl.
Just a few days ago i sniped me a detroit tigers home jersey with about 9 seconds left......i use a stop watch....yeah i know...i cheat:3dSMILE:
I've been the snipee too many times. Unless they change the process somehow, it's the only way to bid.Quote:
Originally posted by BlownGoat
:LOL: Yeah i'm not proud of it but if you dont do it then someone else is surely gonna snag what you want.
Just a few days ago i sniped me a detroit tigers home jersey with about 9 seconds left......i use a stop watch....yeah i know...i cheat:3dSMILE:
hahaha.. i now know why i get outbid the last couple seconds.... haha.. thnaks guys lol
hmm.. i put a wannted ad up at my work.. for a 350 motor.. and i got a couple replies.. but they are completely built motors.. and they want liek 2,000 dollars.. but they are completely built
Well... I finally got a 350.. found it in the paper. Its a GM LG 5.7 bored.030 over.. i got it for 150 bucks. 2 bolt mains, i was wondering where i find the casting number at. Also i was wonderin if you guys could give me a couple tips on buliding the motor.. since i am new to all this. I would greatly appreciate it!
-Steve
I've got a 2 bolt 350 casting number 3970010 that I'd be willing to sell you. It's bored .030 over, and doesn't seem to have had many mile on before it died, so it may be cleaned up with a .040 overbore (otherwise a .060 bore will do the job). It had main bearing failure, but no bearings spun. I'll also throw in a crank (may not be salvagable), some 33882 heads, rods (you should probably have them reconditioned), and pistons (probably not much use to you), all for $350. There is a cam in there of unknown lift, but you might be able to make use of it. I will not include the lifters, because I didn't keep track of where they came from.
Casting is found at the back of the block, right above where the bellhousing mounts, just takes a little degreaser and sometimes a wire brush to find it. Decode the pad first, right behind the alternator near the bracket.
Hi im new here just found this site today, I would check at www.racingjunk.com
Depending on how much motor you want to build, sometimes a crate motor or a reman from a reputable rebuilder is more cost effective...... Just my 2 cents worth.
hmm.. thanks for the input guys.. but what i really wanna do.. is fix this motor up piece by piece... that way ill know itl b all done right.. and i bought this car for a project car..jsut for this reason.. to find a motor and fix it up. i know edelbrock has some sort of comple kit.. heads, cam,pistions,rods,lifters,pushrods,lifter, gaskets.. everything.. but im not sure what im gonna need. I want mild performance, good gas mileage, and low maintenece.
oh yea.. and also, since its bored out .030.. wut would it make it now.. like a 355?
I noticed there are two holes.. beside the end pushrod holes.. towards the end of the block. they appear to be the same size.. and i was wondering if they are normal
im not sure.. they look awkard.. ill try to get apicture of tehm for you to see
ok.. heres some pics of the two holes..
and the other hole.. :confused:
Look like "cast" oil return holes to me.Quote:
Originally posted by camaroracer16
and the other hole.. :confused:
even tho they are different sizes? the holes arent gonna change how the motor runs or anything wil it?
Yep, They were cast into the block when it was pored into the mould. They just allow the oil to run back to the pan. You can clean the cast hole up to allow the oil to flow back better. ONLY IF YOU ARE REBUILDING THE ENGINE tho. Don't grind on the block unless ALL the filings can be flushed out like a "bare block" before cleaning and assembly. It's worked just the way it is til now.Quote:
Originally posted by camaroracer16
even tho they are different sizes? the holes arent gonna change how the motor runs or anything wil it?
ok.. great, thanks. Would you happen to know where i can find a instruction booklet on building a motor.. with like ponter or sumting in it?
and another thing.. where can i find cheap heads.. used or new?? iwould greatly appreciate it
So... what did you get that jersey for.... $3.85?:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:Quote:
Originally posted by BlownGoat
:LOL: Yeah i'm not proud of it but if you dont do it then someone else is surely gonna snag what you want.
Just a few days ago i sniped me a detroit tigers home jersey with about 9 seconds left......i use a stop watch....yeah i know...i cheat:3dSMILE: