Hey thanks Bob
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Hey thanks Bob
LOL- you gonna make me take that cover off the Rivey, aren't ya
LMAO!!!!! To be honest you probably, more than likely would have me right off........But I know Tommy's car is turning some LOW numbers.....few weeks ago he came off the line so hard he crashed down and busted a numerous amount of things LOL......so to go against him......YOU BET YA!
Lets get back to the heads. I have a set of 461 heads which have no valves or springs, but which have been cut for 2.02" intake valves and I have had them cleaned and pressure checked. I paid $80 for them and $110 to clean and test them so I have a total of $190 in them. On my tight budget I want to trade them in with a 2-bolt 350 block and they will only give me $100 tradein for the bare heads. Anybody offering $200 plus shipping can have them. Let me know in the next month or so since I plan the tradein for July.
Let me review my situation and let me know if I am wrong. The 300 HP 327 from a '67 Impala shown on another thread by 1bad914 was under the old H.P. rating scheme so I would guess it would really be about 250 H.P. under the present rating method (GM after '72). The gas is bad AND expensive today so C.R. more than 9:1 probably will require 89 octane or higher. A new GM Universal 350 is rated at about 240 H.P. with the addition of a Performer intake and 1 5/8" headers and only 8.5:1 C.R. (or less). I had my heart set (arbitrarily) on a 300 H.P. engine that would run on REGULAR gas for the street. Thus with the 50 H.P. shift in ratings I hope that a rebuilt 350 (0.030" over) with a GM-Crane cam Part No. 12353915 (194/204 @ 0.050", 270/278 adv., 0.398/0.422 valve lift, Lobe Centers 107/117; all I/E) denoted "Crane Street" I will satisfy the theory of Tech1 that any cam with more than 200 degrees intake duration (@ 0.050") will not be an economy cam. The Elgin version of this cam describes it as a torque cam without sacrificing mileage. The final specs are beginning to shape up as:
9:1 C.R. with 0.040" squish
GM-Crane Street torque cam, close to the 300 H.P. Corvette cam
76 cc heads with 1.94/1.50 valves
Edelbrock Performer intake
1 5/8" headers
Quadrajet 4 bbl (initially)
While the H.P. at higher rpm will probably be less than the old 300 rating the hope is that the torque will be greater than the stock "300 H.P." under the old rating scale in the low rpm range around 2200 where my 2.79:1 rear will be at cruising speed. I want mileage economy, but the rodder in me will not allow me to be comfortable with a cam that has less lift than the stock cam and the 194/204 @0.050" duration is right around the values of the 300 H.P. 327 which had 195/202 with 0.390/0.410 valve lift with 112 Lobe Centers. It looks to me that the "Crane-Street" cam is just slightly tweaked from the 327-300HP cam for a little more torque. Thus I want and hope to get something like the old 300 H.P. engine on 87 or 89 octane and close to 18 mpg. In a 2200 pound roadster, 250 H.P. (new scale) should give good street performance?????? How much does a Porsche 914 weigh?
Just Checking with the Collective Wisdom, anybody want those heads?
Best Wishes,
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Thinking it over from this morning and checking on the tradein value of the 461 double-hump (bare) SBC heads, I have lowered the price to $200 PLUS SHIPPING COST.
Don Shillady
Ashland, VA
Well Don, if the 461's wern't cut for 202's I would come & get them......but sry.
As far as your set-up goes you seem to be missing a lot of the understanding of where your horsepower & torque comes from.
There's a book out there ( you can get it at most major book stores ) " Smokey Yunick's Power Secrets, that I think will help you more than 18 idea's from 36 diff. people.
Keep in mind that it's the therory in that book that you can apply.
I don't mean to sound offensive, and if I do please excuse me, but I've been around the track that your on & I kept finding myself in the pits, until I just did it myself.
One thing that is for sure- if you don't get it right the first time- you can do it again later. But at least you'll be cruisin.
Later....
Hambiskit:
Specifically, what would you do different? I still have a 4" stroke for Ford flathead and 3 3/16" pistons and rods and I would love to run the old familiar 3.78:1 rear ratio from the old Ford closed driveline, BUT (!) gas is over $2.00/gallon now and 250 H.P. for a 2200 pound roadster should still be pretty good. No offense taken, and as you say I can try that setup and change the rear gear ratio and/or cam later after I get it running if there is unsatisfactory performance. I know the way to power and performance is higher compression ratio, lower rear gear ratio, hotter cam (Edelbrock Performer) for higher rpm and even supercharging, but I want a street rod I can afford to fuel and not to race. When I got my rear 4-bar welded one of the VW mechanics told me that the Judson Supercharger I had on a '66 VW at a cost of about $350 is now sought after by VW fanatics for up to $5000! But there the mileage would go from about 26 mpg down to about 22 mpg with the blower, whereas on a SBC a blower will drop the mileage to under 10 mpg. I have read a number of Smokey Yunicks's articles in magazines, but I will get a copy of the book you mention for some added tips. So far I only have David Vizards book on SBC buildups. I welcome your comments. Really the 461 heads would be best for a circle track or drag race car, not a street rod because they do not have accessory bolt holes, just high flow!
Best Wishes,
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
this is funny.......all this started over the sale of the corvette heads and the topics TOTALLY changed.........LMAO!!!! I don't mind! Gives me ideas LOL
Jim, when are you coming through?
And Ham I don't think you were mean.....I tend to agree with you.......but meh....guess they are easily confused LOL :)
sadly- not till next summer Vega, so we both have time for more...LOL.
E-mail me at hambiskit@hotmail.com , and we can chat. Also this lame-assed dial-up ISP can't get me under the time limit to post pic.'s here, and we can swap those then too.
Streets:
Well I wonder how you arrived at the 2537 pound weight for my '29, maybe just a guess? I think that is a bit high and I will not know until I get the car running, but I will try to keep it light. As you say rodding should be "run-for-fun", but economics have kept me from the roadster I always wanted for over 40 years and you are not going to discourage me now. I have chosen the "belly button" path because the parts are there, the frame is set up for that and for me the task of complete construction is quite a bit more than restoring an existing sports car, no matter how far gone. So if there are no takers for the 461 heads I will take the small loss and trade them in and get a "warmed over" 4-bolt 350 with a mild torque cam. As a Ford fan for 2/3 of my life I am just learning the details of the SBC world and I bought the heads before I realized the C.R. would be too high for pump gas and I might need holes for an A/C some day; although I have been told that accessory holes can be drilled in the ends if necessary. I had a chance to take fender measurements off a restored '29 Ford sport coupe today and was reminded of the original 42 HP 4cyl, so I think I will be pleased with the performance of a 250 HP SBC 350, and if it gets 16 mpg sobeit, but if I can get 18 mpg with a mild torque cam that will be OK too. Tell me again about the occasional 18 mpg you got with a supercharged 383 "pail" using a 2.79:1 rear. If my understanding is correct that you could indeed get 18 mpg with a light foot and that setup, then I have hopes for 20 mpg and I will be pleased to add a "V-8" to my headlight bar.
Best Wishes,
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
P.S. I looked up the weight of a Porsche 914 and it was 2890 pounds stock although some stripped specials claim only 2000 pounds. Thus if "1bad914" gets a 4 sec 0-60 with a '67 300 H.P. 327 (old rating scale), I can hope for something like 5 sec with a '29 roadster and a mild 350, but we won't know until I can try it and if not then maybe I will change the cam and/or the rear gear.