stuck, again

[shawnlee28]

well just gunna spit it out here we go.I have my truck project going in the drive way and almost down to bare metal bare in most spots .i have etch primer to spray once i get all metal but its takin several days and in the meantime i am gettin flash rust.I still have several days untill i shoot it but then i still need to primer then paint what can i do to buy some time and keep the rust away will the etch primer help with the surface rust outside for awhile or should i get a primer sealer and not worry about the etch stuff as it sayes only for bare metal and feather edged old paint or can i spray it on big sheets of old paint also theres some sort of deal with filler and etching primer?just seems like alot to do i have the winshield out and in order to put it back for awhile i need to at least have sealer if not paint there before i put it back.so etch and prime and seal and paint the area around the winshield then install and paint the rest later?I am so confused .I see spraytech u painted the firewall first and put the motor in .I am tryin to kinda do the same thing finish the firewall and winshield rot then put it together and finish the body work and paint but mother nature wants that metal back and I dont want that to happen

[shawnlee28]

I can tell by the n o replies that I am freakin out with the paint. I guess in an ideal setting it would be best to prep the whole thing and shoot the etch and primer at once.But in a driveway setting u have to make do.So i will shoot and area clean an area and so forth keeping the bare metal covered as much as possible.Ideally i guess u would strip to metal the whole ride then spray the whole ride but I am finding out its not gunna happen in the drive way so i will shoot it on and not worry since its only etch and primer then i will take steps to have an area to shoot the color all at once as well as the clear.Finding out what to do how to do it and in what steps for it to be done takes time and it is easy to get confused and stuck since this is the first time I have no experiance to draw from other than what I read and learn here and on the web.Most of the time articles and how tos are written in industry terminology and in an ideal setting rarely covering the exact scenario u have going.ITS nice to see how tos like spraytech has written on the spraygun set up ,plain and simple to understand ,not more confusing and complicated like some of the web articles i have read.I think CHR needs a place for all the how to posts like spraytechs gun tips can be placed under a single catagory such as tips or how to section as this would slow down the same ol questions over and over in the forums and give guys like spraytech a break from all the posts as he is under no obligation other than kindness to reply to posts as he has a day job like the rest of us and takes what little time that is left to help others .There are many more like him in the other parts of the forums such as streets and others so even if u dont think someone gave u enuff info or simply comments on ur comments just remember that they didnt have to give u anything at all!!!So in sayin that I would like to thank all who have helped with actuall facts and how tos or the reply of ("I can relate to that" )

[shawnlee28]

F.A.Q looks like a good place to put all that info such as spraygun tips and so forth if I had more exp as an admin I would volunteer to help put all the old and new articles together in one spot as I feel really bad to keep hounding people like a little kid"whats this, whats that, whats it do>?" as I am sure it gets old for all who keep helpin others, once again thnks fer all who have helped others as I have seen multiple projects posted on the forums that would have went real bad or not turned out so well or been down right dangerous to others if not for the help recieved here so fer all who did not give apreciation and thnks ( THNKS CHR MEMBERS FOR HELPING THOSE INDIVIDUALS including me).....

[SprayTech]

Shawn ,
I understand what your saying as I think in time Brent will get all this sorted and into seperate areas, as their is a bundle of great info here.

OK on a better note here, I will try and give you some info on your delima.............If you have had it sand blasted or you have ground it down to bare steel , it needs to immediately sprayed with something like PPG's DPLF sealer. This will stop your surface rusting and having to start all over.

You can apply bondo , plastic filler , glazing putty..ect,, over this with just a hint of sanding with like 150 grit .

This is why i say only do a panel at a time and not bite into more then you can chew ( get done) at a time.

SprayTech

[shawnlee28]

Update I have sprayed etch and then polyprimer on the firewall and on the winshield area covering all the bare metal.All of the other bare metal parts are inside fer now.I will etch and prime them soon after a light sanding.The ol binks 18 sprayed the etch on real good as it was a (2 part? ),activator and etch 50/50 mix.On the other hand the polyprimer was real hard to get a wet spray it sprayed real dry.I adjusted the gun as far as it would go each way and seemed to make little difference.The etch was thin and sprayed at a recomended 30-40 lbs .I turned up the pressure to 55 - 60 lbs for the primer still no response.Heres my setup a 5 hp 13.9 cfm @ 90, 10' ft of hose , air reg with water filter, 2' of hose, a big 2 filter water/oil seperator ,50' more hose then connected to the binks 18. I was able to make the primer wet and flow by holding the gun at aprox 6 inches away and moving slow.The (cigar?) shape was 3 inches tall and about 3/4 wide.Adjusting the upper setting ( air?) almost all the way in seemed to wet the spray, but out dried it.The lower setting seemed to wet the mix slightly and much turnin made little difference here.Since i have seen pro painters in action I knew to look for the (glaze) as he called it and then carry it leaving no dry areas but no runs which was difficult with the little cigar pattern.The spray volume was about that of a rattle can only with a nice cigar shape lol!!!!and a little dry It was fun I learned something new. It was a rusty ol piece of metal anyway I cant do too much irepairable damage with the sprayin I hope

[SprayTech]

Shawn,
As you know there are 2 adjustment screws at the back top of gun body : The top one is for fan adjustment -screw it in , the pattern gets smaller, screw out it gets wider.
The bottom screw adjuster is for the amount of material that comes out of the gun- screw in, less amount- screw out - more material will be administered out the gun, doing this too much will also create runs as to much material will be put out of gun.
This is where you have to find the right adjustment for the product you are spraying.

spray

[shawnlee28]

thnx spraytech I think i found the problem I set the regulator at about 55 lbs but when I went over to the compressor and sprayed it drops to about 35-40 lbs .so I put a gauge and flow adjuster at the gun sure enuff reads 60 when not sprayin but when sprayin it drops 15-20 lbs. To get 55-60 at the gun sprayin I have to set the regulator at about 80-90 to get around 55 lbs spraying does any of this make sense or do u think theres a prob with the gun?so is it 50-65 at the regulator or is it 50-65 at the gun or is it 50-65 while sprayin the gun ?I hate to ask so many questions but u know what ur talkin about and I trust ur opinion as the retail stores have hidden agendas with there advice (such as its all bad but what were sellin) thnx again(ps) the increased pressure helps the spray pattern ,could this be one of those things (thats just how that particular gun likes it?)

[SprayTech]

sounds like most small compressors, your gun consumes more CFM's then the compressor can handle. just crank the up the air regulator to 150 PSI at your wall guage , then regulate the incomming air to the gun with that regulator. It will suck down the air in the compressor , but it should spary it out the gun .

I know money is tight with everyone , but it might pay to purchace a LVLP ( Low volume low pressure )Paint gun. they require around 3-8 CFM's with only 10-30 psi at the gun as my Iwatta does. Sata also has a LVLP gun , but costs more.


Painting is like Ballet, got to flow and be one with your gun , young grasshopper

Spray

[shawnlee28]

Thnx again spraytech will try that next and see if it keeps up the pressure if not lvlp sounds interesting as I am working in the driveway it may help keep good friends with the neighbors.!Sounds as if that gun wont blow as much overspray as the binks 18 .When the binks got to blowin good(which only lasted a few seconds till the pressure dropped) looked like a smokin campfire with the fog from the overspray lol and it appeared to be blowin right towards my other truck like a magnet so when I get my airflow lined out the binks may become a problem .I will be topcaoting in a homemade booth but the etch and the prime is happening out in the open as the neighbors wont tolerate my bigtop spray tent very long .Its metal commercial pallet racks like the lumber yard has inside there 12 foot tall and 10 ft wide kinda narrow but my only solution! I wraped it in decorative clear plastic ,whats there problem, even trimmed it in fancy silver tape!! they didnt think it was near as perty as I did.