Advice for painting racing stripes

I plan on buying a new 2005 mustang when they are available this fall. I have wanted one since the prototype was revealed about a year ago. For the last 6 months, I have had a photo of the new production mustang as the background on my computer, and it had racing stripes. Last week, I found out that racing stripes will not be an option this year, I had my heart set on them.

Right now, I am considering adding stripes myself, and I am looking for some tips and advice on how to do a quality job. I have one complete paint job under my belt, and I have some good equiptment.

I'm interested in going for a satin or flat black look. I know for sure that I don't want to have to reclear the whole panel(s) when I do it.

What kind of tape do I use?
How do I blend the stripe into the rest of the surface?

If it was mine , I would just use the simi-gloss black vynal tape stripe.
I bet there is a company around you that can get it and cut it to the stripe width you want.

But if you prefer to paint it : use 3Ms blue vynal masking tape it comes in 1/16", 1/8th", 1/2" widths.
I would use the 1/2 " as it be easier to pull a straight line with it .
also make sure you use a quality masking paper so you dont get thinner /reducer burn through from spraying your color.

SprayTech

I had a thought , and you might want to do the wide vynal tape stripe first and see if you like it .be an expensive fix to refinish the panels , if you dont like the look.

Then if you want it that way you can take the 3M blue vynal tape and tape to the outside edges , and pull off the tape stripe and paint it on permanetly.

Spray

I've cut vinyl stripes for cars before. It is quick and easy and like SprayTech said you can reverse your decision if you don't like it. Iv'e cut them for ElCaminos and Chevelles. It woud take a little set up to get the measurments for a Mustang (i.e. Chevelle stripes tapper to the front with radiused outter corners on the front, etc.). If you decide to paint you can also get the stripe cut out in reverse in (Paint Mask Vinyl) so theres no tape seams @ the corners and minimal measuring. Mask vinyl goes down it 1 pc. but doesn't have the aggressive adhesive of standard vinyl so it peals of as easy as masking tape.

Thanks Pro , as that is a great Idea that I didnt even think of , is having the stripe done reversed and then just stick it down , mask off car and scuff inside the stripe and paint.....A PRO ;) way of doing it , easier too.....

SprayTech

Thanks for the tip, Pro, sounds like a great way to do the stripe deal. Do you have these available, or a good source to get them?? Just curious.

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Originally posted by Dave Severson
Thanks for the tip, Pro, sounds like a great way to do the stripe deal. Do you have these available, or a good source to get them?? Just curious.

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The only stripes I have set up are for the ElCamino & Chevelle, like the faactory stripes for early 70's.
I could set up stripes for other models if I had all the measurments.

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Originally posted by Streets
I'll betcha could also make a car cover that looks like an old beat up Chevvy Citation to cover a nice "Pail" too HUH!!!

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If I had a pic. of all 4 sides N' the top ................ I believe I could ...... He HE HE
Might be cheaper ta' jus' drive the beat up Citation tho :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: **)

Thanks for the advice.

The vinyl stripes are a good idea, but I am pretty sure I want something permanent. I know most people would think I was crazy to do this to a new car (not being an expert). It's a little ballsy, but I am going to be prepared before to do it. I'm going to get a hood from a scrapyard and practice on it first.

Have any of you ever used the John Deere Blitz Black before? I have done some research, and it seems to be a top choice when trying to achieve a satin black look. Apparently, it's not only cheap, but proven to be very durable and doesn't chalk over. Compatability with the factory paint is a concern (as with any other paint).

I wouldnt reccomend using a primer sealer for your stripe on a new car.
Go get PPG's DCC single stage and have them mix in some flatening agent , as they know how much to formulate to get that satin finish you want, you will still have to catylize it , but it will last.
I would think a quart of black , and a pint of catylist and some reducer would be enough. it will also be compatiable too.

Dont slack for cheap on a new car.
Do it right the first time !

SprayTech

Appreciate it, Spray.

My first paint job was with a PPG single stage, so I am a little familiar with their products. That sounds like a good way to go.

Some information I have read suggets that you should apply the minimum amount to cover because the thicker the stripe the more of a ridge there will be on the finished stripe edges. That makes sense, but is that the best way to do it?

Would I need to leave the tape on until the paint has fully cured?

What grit of paper do I need to use to scuff the factory surface where the stripe will be painted?

Use 1000 grit paper and sand the shiny off the clear , and I wouldnt go more then 3 coats of color as DCC is a fast covering paint.

Let it dry for about 15 minutes then carefully pull off the tape ( if it strings when pulled up let set for a few more minutes) as this will help the edge flow smooth . If you let it dry overnight you will have a harsh paint edge.

You might even get by with 2 coats as it does cover well .

SprayTech

A couple quick notes.

Spray, the Blitz Black is a single stage top coat. If I read your comment correctly it implied that it was a primer. Which, BTW, you are 100% correct about, primer is not an ideal finish coat.

Andy, similar to ProZ's comment about the stripe taper. Probably the other two most famous cars with the wide stripes running the length of the car are the Cobra and the Shelby Mustangs (I assume these are your inspiration). Most folks don't realize it because of the optical nature of it, but the stripes on both those cars taper both at the front and the rear. It's slight, but it's there. There are a number of Cobra replica sites, probably ERA would be the best, and I think some Shelby GT sites, that have specs for stripe layout. You may want to track those down for a scalable example.

Thanks Bob for correcting me , I thought it was a cheap form of PPG's DP90.

I would stick to a quality Automotive finish on a new car, tractor paint i would have to shy away from .

SprayTech

Bob, I found a good source when I did an initial internet search for this information. Someone on the Club Cobra site had a good dimensioned schematic. I'm glad I saw that because I never would have though of it.


Spray,

Is that DCC from the "Concept" line? I used MTK from the Omni line on my first job. I'm sure Concept is a higher quality.

Yes DCC is " Concept " and their high end Acrylic Ureathane product, Omni isnt a bad product , but carrys no warrenty.

Spray

I just saw a special where they brought this painter guy out who paints airplane stripes.The way he did it was to use the special tape for stripin so u get no bleed under the tape.He laid down a thin tack coat he called it.Then waited for it to tack up real good ,he said it helped hold a thicker coat this way.Then he sprayed the final kinda thick ,waited about 10 mins or less for it to flash( i think thats the right terminology) then he peeled the tape up while still wet ,he said what it did was let the side of the stripes lay down and u dont get near the ridge as doing it the regular way.This was his specialty he went around doin this all the time even had a special name for him like the striper or somethin!He said if u let the paint dry then remove the tape u get a mean ridge and at 200 mph plus it would peel real quick. With his special way they would last as long as the regular paint he claimed.Looked good to me and made sense but i am no painter. It was 1 of those late night shows where there buildin planes and copters in the garage!

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Originally posted by shawnlee28
I just saw a special where they brought this painter guy out who paints airplane stripes.The way he did it was to use the special tape for stripin so u get no bleed under the tape.He laid down a thin tack coat he called it.Then waited for it to tack up real good ,he said it helped hold a thicker coat this way.Then he sprayed the final kinda thick ,waited about 10 mins or less for it to flash( i think thats the right terminology) then he peeled the tape up while still wet ,he said what it did was let the side of the stripes lay down and u dont get near the ridge as doing it the regular way.

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Just like we usta' do it in the conversion van shop at Winnebago. We used a polypropylene tape back then, I think they still have the tape around. We pulled it off wet cuz' it wuz' faster. Time iz' money ya' know.:CRY:

I mentioned this a few posts back:LOL:
Spray

:eek: :LOL: OOOpps Hehe this email notification thing I forgets what was said.:3dSMILE:

No problem, you just confirmed what I posted is all.

I know it gets tough sometimes to remember everything on every thread.
Spray

I don't remember what I had for breakfast :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: **)

:LOL: Roger that!

There'z just nothin' like a good snack.............:3dSMILE:

O yeah!!! That will keep wrenches turnin late in the garage or make u look for insulin 1 of the 2.No wonder u need that big motor Pro70z28 hehe if thats a snack fer ya :LOL: j/k

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Originally posted by shawnlee28
O yeah!!! That will keep wrenches turnin late in the garage or make u look for insulin 1 of the 2.No wonder u need that big motor Pro70z28 hehe if thats a snack fer ya :LOL: j/k

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Ya' got yer' octane booster for the car .... then ya' got yer' personal octane booster.. He HE HE:eek: :eek: :eek:

Also , when following Spray Techs advice, PPG recommends using half the recommended hardner.