Need advise on Some NASON PAINT...

Hey guys... I'm getting ready to do up a vehicle of mine and my customer wants to go cheap... we'll we have found a good single stage Urethane paint that is durable and will fight most chemicals such as gas. The color is Fireball Red Metallic. It is made by NASON PAINTS which is also a Dupont company. The price is 121.25 a gallon which is a good price for any color of red. As with most Single stage paints with Urethane it should have one nice glossy wet look.

>If you good painters out there would give me your feed back I would sure appreciate it.

>oh and my customer doesn't want to go with the expensive PPG concept paints. Well just give me all your thought

You can see the paint at the Ketone website you should just be able to time FUL-THANE PAINT into your search area. Thanks guys!!!!

PPG also makes a low budget paint "OMNI" its an acrylic urathane.
I use it when im doing low budget projects, seems to hold-up very well.

just another option.

Hey 300;
I have found that Nason does not cover very well. You will need numerous coats to try and get a hamonius looking paint job. I have just finished a job in the color of "Intense blue pearl Met.", it is a 1999 Dodge blue and I had a horrible time trying to cover the old color and the primer. I applied 7 quarts to a full size extended truck, only to have to do it again after I applied the clear.

Next time I am paying the extra and using Cintarie,, well, maybe. I am considering primering the enitre vehicle next time before I paint so that I have the same base through-out.

Its most wise to seal off the complete car if your doing a complete, so you have a uniform coverage!

Dont know about NASON Products , but you might check and see if they have a red tinted sealer so it will help on coverage.

Other then that good luck !

I second the use of omni coat by PPG. It is very cheap and does hold up well for the price and goes on very easy as basecoat clearcoat system. I haven't used it myself but a friend of mine has used it on numerous cars and trucks and I must admit it looks good and hold up good.

I have painted several cars with nason paint and it is hard to cover with but if you seal it first then mix 1/2 paint cup with mixing clear you will be amazed at the results. Good Luck!

That is on the final coat mix it "sorry"

i totally agree with big daddy on this one.. i paint alot where i work , and on the side sometimes for some spending cash. if ur gonna use the nason , i would put an ounce or two Less reducer in the first coat ( to help it cover). then after the car was totally covered with the first coat spray a coat like u normally would. then on the last coat mix it half clear " mix the clear as normal" ( ive found nason clear # 497-00 and cat. # 483-79 works really good) and as for the paint mix it with just a little reducer........ it also works with out the reducer...... i usually mix a full cup of clear and just add a few ounces of paint for tint on the first coat of clear. then one more coat of straight clear.

I like all the feed back I'm getting but the problem is I'm not going to use a clearcoat at all since it's a single stage URETHANE based paint. I still need more feedback my mind is still undecided and only have a couple days to figure it out. Thanks!!!!!

300 I think what carter is trying to tell you is how PPG reccomends on their DCC single Stage line of paint .
If you take their clear and mix like directions and then add it to the last coat of Mixed paint , this will help on Color hold out .But their DCC is usually a high solids and coverage is excellent.

I Have done this alot with good results.
I re read your first post and if its Your car , why is a customer paying for the paint ?
And like usual you will always get what you pay for. Cheaper isnt always the best way to go .
I have never figured out why a guy would spend thousands of dollars fixing a car , and then skimp on the paint.

Remember if you mess up with single stage you will have to wait and re do the mess ups, with base clear you can let the base dry for a few minutes and sand out your BOO BOO and keep on spraying , and if you get a run in the clear keep spraying & you can sand it lightly when dry and buff it out , no re -painting.

I dont know how good you are behind a spray gun so I guess its up to you , you are the painter.
SprayTech

Thanks SPRAY TECH for the feed back, I'm also happy that you can catch typing errors..... My guy said he wants to go the old traditional way since it will be in alot of car shows. And SPRAY TECH did you know that in most (OLDER MODEL) car shows you can lose points for using two stage paints, when actually their were only single stage paints then..... That is why my CUSTOMER want to use a URETHANE HIGH GLOSS paint. thanks again

Well if you knew all this, then why ask for advice?
You seem to be the PRO !!!
If your building a concourse restoration might as well put the cheap stuff on it!
I'm not that anal retentive with " if it had this paint type on it thats what it has to be " BS.

Now I see why streets is the way he is around here.



SPRAY
and by the way anything under 1980 had ACRYLIC ENAMEL not UREATHANE so i guess if you put uerathane on its still not right :3dSMILE:

LOL- you got to love it,
NO NASON PAINT IS CRAP... there you get it?? I shoot a lot of paints, and I wouldn't put it on my lawnmower.
If you want to go with A.E. then use Dextron from PPG, and by the way....have you ever shot any Enamels?? Good Luck..LOL

now that's funny...where'd you get that from Streets??

Well I have decided to go with PPG Concept paint with a PPG Epoxy primer also.

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I have never figured out why a guy would spend thousands of dollars fixing a car , and then skimp on the paint.

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Because people are cheap, thats why. The cheaper lines are 1/3 the price of the good stuff, deltron, chromabase, and can look pretty good. Now I don't know why someone would build a show car or something and spend thousands on the engine and then not spend anything on paint. I used omni single stage on my car about 4 years ago and it still looks good today. Why omni single stage, well its a 1987 bonneville and isn't really worth putting deltron on. I used white and it covered fine with 3 coats. I have used both limco and omni base clear and they both cover like crap in most colors. I don't think nason would be any different. I never used nason except the clear. In fact I am working on a '67 mustang right now and it will be painted with limco base/clear. The guy wasn't looking for a show car, he just wants a daily driver and didn't want to spend so much getting it painted that he would be afraid if he got a scratch. He wanted to use single stage but I talked him into at least going with a cheaper line of base clear. It will hold up for quite a few years, not like the Deltron or other upper lines which will probably last 15 years or more, but if the car is actually driven it may be damaged or something before then. A car driven in the winter here in Wisconsin also may get rust with our salt covered roads. Hey I would prefer to use Deltron all the time, it makes painting easier, but I can see the benefits of cheaper lines and have used them quite a bit.

I guess thats the difference between an Amature and a PRO, I will never stoop to use a cheap product for anyone , I just wont do the job !!!!
Its my name going on that car , and most likely will have to repair it if anything happens to it , and another thing ,PPG Deltron has a LIFE TIME warrenty if anything goes wrong, some of the other paint products dont carry a warrenty because its cheaper !!!

Spray

So you are saying I am an amateur (correct spelling), and your a pro? I have only been painting for 15 years and used a lot of different paints over the years, PPG, Dupont, sikkens, ect. Dbu was fairly new when I started. I have a tech degree in auto body and I've worked in a few bodyshops over the years, and painted at every one of them. If they didn't pay so poorly and not care about your health, I might still be doing it every day for a living. Like I said, I wouldn't use the cheaper lines on something worth a lot, but for the daily driver they are fine. Just so people understand they aren't going to hold up as long as the Deltron or chromabase. If blending for a color match is needed, the cheaper lines aren't usually a good idea. The upper lines soared in price so much since I started. How many people are going to spend something like $500 or more just on paint, when the car is only worth maybe $1000. Thats the reason maaco and the like are still in business. I bet someone who preps a car well and uses something like omni, It will last longer then a maaco job. To get the warrenty you have to be certified through the paint company and use all the recommended products from start to finish. The average person spraying isn't going to get the warrenty. I think at least half the sales an auto paint supply place makes is to people off the street, just as many sales as to bodyshop accounts.

Kenseth 17 I agree totally. I am the one who posted this forum.
Thanks man.

Nason is Duponts second line of paint just like Omni is PPG. The single stage urethane is and excellence paint. What you have to weight out is this, how much do you want to spent on paint. $150, $300, $500-600. I bought paint this week for a BMW that cost $495 and I will need a $100 more. It sprays well and lays down with little orange peel. Some colors cover better than others. All paints should be sealed to give the car a solid color before painting. This stops your hiding problems over primer and diffrent color body panels. Most first timers don't see the addvantage of the sealer. This is as important as the paint. You can use less paint by sealing a car. The next problem with any paint is mixing it properly. All paint stores carry mixing cups with a ratio printed on the cup. You just pour to the line on the cup for the paint , thinner and hardner. You can over thin a paint and it will spray good. The problem my be a year or two years later the paint my starts dieing out and chalking. By this time you are cussing the paint when the problem came from the painter not the paint. This is ture for all lines of paint. I have painted for fifteen years and enjoy it.

I am sure we all have been painting for years ...RIGHT!
Everyone has a particular brand they fancy, be it Dupont or PPG, even HOK. A great paint job starts from the prep work.
A crappy prep job will not support the best or highest quality of paint no matter how you prep it. No matter what you do when starting from scratch...no pun intended, your substates need to be followed to a T. Short cutting your initial primers and bases will only create problems in the long run. What ever you choose, follow the guideline set forth by the manufactuer, and you should be fine.

Hey who ever sprayed DULUX HOT! With no reducer?

Ok i've sprayed like everything around here, been cutting back on the cheaper paints.... but have sprayed omni, nason's fullthane, limco, and also U-tech single stage, sprayed dcc also.. off all of those I'd usually go with the U-tech, if you can find it,, have good luck with it for the price.. but if you prep it right, and spend the time with it. and wet-sand and buff it out right, you can make them all look excellent. granted some will hold out better than others, but can still make them look awesome.. I've done many show cars with these products and had good luck.. but for the sake of argument,, i've been strictly trying to use the better (more expensive) products more recently,, just for the fact of my name being on the product. and if the customer is complaining about the difference in paint price, then chances are he will be complaining about the cost of repairs, and everything else up until it's time to pick it up.. and ultimately your going to get the best job from the customer that will be willing to spend the money to have everything done corectly.... but as I stated, you can make all the products look great in the end... it's more on prep than anything... good luck.

Rainbow, Haven't sprayed without thinner, but back in the '80s we used to warm our enamel on a hot plate before spraying!

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Originally posted by HOTRODPAINT
Rainbow, Haven't sprayed without thinner, but back in the '80s we used to warm our enamel on a hot plate before spraying!

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lmao, glad i didn't spray in the 80's lol...

It all boils down to a man has to use what he can and the finish of any paint depends on the person behind the spray gun. The finish three to five years down the road depends on the paint. Even then cheep paints will do fair if maintained properly but who takes care of their cars these days. I try but other people always seem to ding or scratch my toys. That alone makes me want to give up and let my babies suffer.

HOTROD PAINT......That's what I meant.........using a hotplate, warming it up, no reducer and spray away. Loved the way that Dulux flowed when warm.

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Originally posted by mopar978
lmao, glad i didn't spray in the 80's lol...

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Been Spraying since the 70's.................seen alot of different products come and go. But it always comes down to the prep work. The old Binks #7 used to put a cloud in the room....the HVLP guns are the cats meow

I totaly agree prep makes the paint job and a good taper . Bad tapers screw up more cars than you can count along with cheap tape. Even if your on a tight budget and use cheap paint its worth the extra couple of bucks for good tape.No sticky crap or seepage PRICELES. I also agree HVLP guns are god sent. They with some practice and somtimes mixing tricks can lay down a glass finish without buffing. That alone is worth the price of a good gun just to think the dream of never buffing again. Mixing tricks are figured out with practice verses location and weather ect like I said origonaly the final finish depends on the person behind the spray gun.

After staying away from this site for several months, I remember why. What is the point of all this talk about which paint is best. If you can't paint, so whats the point? Nasons and Omni are good paints. They just happen to be the same products used 5years ago marketed by PPG and Dupont as thier top shelf products. So 5 years ago you were arguing this same point.