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Thread: paint types
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    paint types

     



    I'm looking at buying the paint for my 40 Ford p/u.
    I want to end up with a deep looking, metallic, repairable ( for my mistakes that I'm sure to make), chip resistant finish. Whats your input on this types of paint
    1. Acrylic Enamel ( I think is the least useable for what I want)
    2. " Urethane
    3. " Lacquer
    4. Urethane base coat ( I think this is the best choice, but I know nothing)

    Thanks for the inputs.

  2. #2
    rspears's Avatar
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    I think you'll be happiest with a base coat clear coat system.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  3. #3
    chopt50wgn is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I am going to use a single stage urethane on my wagon. It can be sanded and polished just like BC/CC and the upside is even better. If you get a chip or nick it can be easily fixed. It's also alot cheaper..................just adding my .02

  4. #4
    mrmustang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chopt50wgn View Post
    I am going to use a single stage urethane on my wagon. It can be sanded and polished just like BC/CC and the upside is even better. If you get a chip or nick it can be easily fixed. It's also alot cheaper..................just adding my .02
    Hope you are not planning a metallic paint job.

  5. #5
    DA34GUY's Avatar
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    Ya sand a single stage metallic and you'll screw it up Bubba
    When I get to where I was goin, I forgot why I went there>

  6. #6
    shine's Avatar
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    you can shoot a ss but you'll need to clear it . i prefer ss myself.
    quality of product is more important. dont buy into the hype about cheap relable junk out there .

  7. #7
    chopt50wgn is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    No metallic..............going to be 2 tone............cream on the bottom and a solid color to be picked as of yet on the top.

  8. #8
    shine's Avatar
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    single stage concept by ppg.

  9. #9
    HOTRODPAINT's Avatar
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    Basecoat-clearcoat is the most predictable outcome.

    The others suffer from a number of problems and potential disasters.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrmustang View Post
    Hope you are not planning a metallic paint job.
    An answer like that doesn't help the OP or me who is not a expert!! Thought the forum was for information and help? (Yeah I'm having a bad day!!) Pete

  11. #11
    shine's Avatar
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    you cant buff ss metallic. it screws up the color.

  12. #12
    mrmustang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by prpmmp View Post
    An answer like that doesn't help the OP or me who is not a expert!! Thought the forum was for information and help? (Yeah I'm having a bad day!!) Pete
    Attempting to ascertain the knowledge of an end user so we can assist him further is quite helpful.

    Ask a detailed question, you get a detailed answer. In this case, the OP states he will not be painting metallics, which allows us to point him in a general direction.

    Again, in his case, he has both a Finish-Master located in (Old Reading Pike, but access sucks since they closed the bridge) Stowe, or a J&S on High Street in Pottstown proper (across from the rental place). Neither offers the greatest pricing, or guidance in my opinion, but beggars can't be choosers in his case. Those two are much better than buying paints from Eastwood on Shoemaker, who know nothing about paint or painting techniques, other than they sell it.

    Bill S.
    Last edited by mrmustang; 10-28-2014 at 10:31 AM.

  13. #13
    shine's Avatar
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    i'll help anyone until i see the words shopline or omni then i'm out. same with eastwood or sumitt .

  14. #14
    prpmmp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrmustang View Post
    Attempting to ascertain the knowledge of an end user so we can assist him further is quite helpful.

    Ask a detailed question, you get a detailed answer. In this case, the OP states he will not be painting metallics, which allows us to point him in a general direction.

    Again, in his case, he has both a Finish-Master located in (Old Reading Pike, but access sucks since they closed the bridge) Stowe, or a J&S on High Street in Pottstown proper (across from the rental place). Neither offers the greatest pricing, or guidance in my opinion, but beggars can't be choosers in his case. Those two are much better than buying paints from Eastwood on Shoemaker, who know nothing about paint or painting techniques, other than they sell it.

    Bill S.
    My bad!! Your short answer was not to the OP but to another post(chopt 50wgn), Shine gave the reason not to buff metallic paint. thanks!! Pete

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by shine View Post
    you cant buff ss metallic. it screws up the color.
    I'm not a paint pro so I'm just asking because I'm curious. Is it just certain brands of single stage metallics that can't be buffed? I've worked at a couple body shops and the first one the owner painted single stage sikkens metallics all the time and buffed them and they always looked great. He had many cars and trucks that won best paint awards all over. I worked at a heavy truck frame shop at my last job and the paint shop sprayed many semis with metallic emron and buffed each one from top to bottom. Were these guys getting away with buffing them and not hurting the finish by spraying more coats of color so the buffing wouldn't burn through as easy?
    Ryan
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