Body Filler

Need some help, whats the best body filler to use.

hart, that's a little like asking what's the best coffee, each guy has a preference. I'll say this, don't buy the cheap stuff, it's just not as "friendly" to work with. My personal preference is Rage by Evercoat. Spreads nice and sands nice.

Thank's Bob trying to do the work myself. First time on the body work.

Hartside

I would also vote for everycoat. My buddy just tried using the Rage as well, and he loves it.

I was just looking at that Rage stuff in Eastwood Co cataloge and was wondering if that was any good. Guess my answer was answered. What about that Tiger Hair, when would that be used?

I would ask the paint shop for thier advice.
Some of us were talking about this a while back.
Make sure the filler you are using won't absorb water
and expand causing it to pop out or crack your paint.
The other Important thing we talked about was the
way the water got to the filler to be absorbed by it.
And this was caused by the back side of where the filler
was applied not being sealed allowing water ,dirt, grim to get in behind the filler or even the paint. So make sure you seal the back side of where ever you put the filler, or you could have
problems in the not so distant future. Hope this helps some.


~ Vegas ~

Hart,

Like you, I have not had much experience with body work either. I bought something and was using it when a knowlegeable friend recommended the Evercaot rage. It was easier to work with. I noticed that was what they were using at a body shop later. A few other friends have seen it on my project. They started using it too and are satisfied with it. I do not know about the issues Vegas has mentioned but believe that he is right. There is probably something much better out there but it as far as applying it is concerned, it has worked well for us.

Rick

If not then oh well, I'm reading it and learning so that's cool with me.

Streets to answer your question, which I'm sure you allready know. If it's a doublewall water should not be able to get to it.
This is probably protected enough from the elements. On the other hand if you are not sure if the elements can get to it, You could weld any holes that you may have drilled to use a slap hammer to pull the dents out with. I did this to my 73 mavrick.
Lots of fun getting the shape right. Had to go over it about six times. Are you testing me buddy. HE! HE!HE!


~ Vegas ~

HUMMMMMM; Condensation I hadn't really thought about that but
I'm still learning from great teachers like you and some of the other guys here on CHR. Thanks

~ Vegas ~

And to answer the million dollar question "What would it look like under there"...........The double wall roof ???????????????
Here is exactly what it looks like under there where u cant see!!:)

OK guys, here's the answer to a couple of questions... Somebody asked where you use Tiger Hair and what about moisture getting through from the backside...

Most body filler is polyester resin plastic (just like fiberglass resin) with a talc filler added. Yes, the talc is the same stuff that is found in baby powder and it therefore absorbs and holds water. The "lightweight" body fillers generally have some of the talc replaced by microscopic glass beads wich makes it only slightly less absorbent, but improves sandability. Tiger hair, Kitty Hair, Dynaglass, Dynahair and other brand specific names designate fillers that contain no talc, but have chopped up or ground up fiberglass particles instead. These fillers will not absorb water and therefore would be used wherever filling holes that might be exposed to the elements (water, mud, condensation) on the backside. Different ones also have different length glass fibers in them. The long-fibered fillers are used for holes larger than 1 inch in diameter; short or powdered fibers everywhere else.

So why not just use these types of fillers exclusively? First, they are not as easy to work with because they tend to be harder when cured. Second, they tend to be considerably more expensive than conventional filler. Third, since they are "resin rich" they may cause discoloration of the topcoats later, so always finish them off with a surface coat of good conventional filler. Also, the long-stranded versions of these fillers may tend to pop some of their fibers through the paint months after the work is finished if they are not buried under a layer of conventional filler.

Hope this helps...

ok i got a extra IH front end and there is aboput a 1 foot scaure rust hole in it how do i fix it?not fixable

where do i find reproduction parts for a 60's IH pickup. far as i can find you cant but if any one knows let me know.

nope have no ideal to what that entails. and no i dont have a saint jude metal. i was just jokin i know its not worth fixin.


and i like useing the "bondo"brand cat hair and bondo is that a good brand???


i like cat hair a hole lot more than bondo but thats me of course i am goin to put bondo over it later

I used "Bondo" for my first few projects and it worked for what i needed. Once i got to know more about body work, I didnt like it nearly as much, there seems to be a lot of pin holes in it, I dont really like the way it sands, and as far as if it's good long term, well we'll have to wait and find out!
I would get the evercoat stuff, I love it!

I have a back panel that I was working on taking a ton of dents out spending hours on and then hit one area and a huge chunck 2 inches thick fell off and I saw that there is a hole where the rust was all the way through and the guy formed the bondo to look like fender basically but still have metal shape to it but all eaten up and brittle, it is about a 6 inch diameter hole and some in other area's. I wan't to repair it and was going to cut it out and make another almost half of a fender and was wondering if anyone know what kind of cardboard you use to make templates that will bend good, etc?

Rice Krispy cereal box!!!!!!

Does it got to be rice Krispys? Haha, thanks man that's not a bad idea. What if I need something bigger though than a ceriel box which I won't but just wondering...

what do you use the card board for? just to keep the bondo from falling out then take it off?

Thank's

A buddy just bought an old Nash from the estate of a former plasterer.

The rear fender had been dented and filled with PLASTER then painted!

Funny thing is...it looked pretty good!

Here's another tip: My brother, would use "Great Stuff" foam sealant for gapping holes, shape it with a cheeze grater then apply a coat of body filler over that. It worked!:D

Thanks CSF. Truckguy, the cardboard is for making a new panel or fender like cutting the rust out and making your own panel, you use the cardboard for a mark up or whatever you like to call it and copy it exactly like the fender and then shape the metal too look like the cardboard template. Understand? I don't know if I explained that very well but tried. It's better than just going out and try making the metal shaped like the fender and all because if you screw up then that will waste the metal and money. Also if you got a curve or anything like my rear fender is rounded and then in the back where the fender bolts up to the body it's a flat panel, you can't really judge how big of a FLAT piece of metal to cut so you form the cardboard around the fender and make it look the same then cut it out blah blah and then lay it back flat on the sheet metal and do it over again with the metal. Whew that was long... :)

didn't know if you guys had seen this thread or not ?


http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/sho...ht=Body+Filler


" if so .... it's worth a second look " :D

oh so all you use the card bourd for is to figure out what shape of metal right? what if it needs a bend in it or some thing?
i seen my uncle cut off some cardbourd like that but he didnt call it a template.


Thank's

begining of this thread asked for best brand of body filler but strayed a little. You can make you own body filler for 1/2 the cost and will be 5 times better without shrinkage or other problems. I make our own filler out of VinylEster Fiberglass resin (cheap ACE HDW or other store brand will shrink a little) and mix in Micro bubbles and fumed silica 1/2 & 1/2 then added to resin . You can make as thick or thin as needed. It will last in a covered can for long time if no hardner is added or contaminated with hardner. UP SIDE is cheap $$ at high quality, low shrinkage, won't crack, lasts for ever . DOWN SIDE is sands hard when set up but can file green pretty easy