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I'm looking at buying the paint for my 40 Ford p/u.
I want to end up with a deep looking, metallic, repairable ( for my mistakes that I'm sure to make), chip resistant finish. Whats your input on this types of paint
1. Acrylic Enamel ( I think is the least useable for what I want)
2. " Urethane
3. " Lacquer
4. Urethane base coat ( I think this is the best choice, but I know nothing)
Thanks for the inputs.
I think you'll be happiest with a base coat clear coat system.
I am going to use a single stage urethane on my wagon. It can be sanded and polished just like BC/CC and the upside is even better. If you get a chip or nick it can be easily fixed. It's also alot cheaper..................just adding my .02
Hope you are not planning a metallic paint job.Quote:
Originally Posted by chopt50wgn
Ya sand a single stage metallic and you'll screw it up Bubba
you can shoot a ss but you'll need to clear it . i prefer ss myself.
quality of product is more important. dont buy into the hype about cheap relable junk out there .
No metallic..............going to be 2 tone............cream on the bottom and a solid color to be picked as of yet on the top.
single stage concept by ppg.
Basecoat-clearcoat is the most predictable outcome.
The others suffer from a number of problems and potential disasters.
An answer like that doesn't help the OP or me who is not a expert!! Thought the forum was for information and help? (Yeah I'm having a bad day!!) PeteQuote:
Originally Posted by mrmustang
you cant buff ss metallic. it screws up the color.
Attempting to ascertain the knowledge of an end user so we can assist him further is quite helpful.Quote:
Originally Posted by prpmmp
Ask a detailed question, you get a detailed answer. In this case, the OP states he will not be painting metallics, which allows us to point him in a general direction.
Again, in his case, he has both a Finish-Master located in (Old Reading Pike, but access sucks since they closed the bridge) Stowe, or a J&S on High Street in Pottstown proper (across from the rental place). Neither offers the greatest pricing, or guidance in my opinion, but beggars can't be choosers in his case. Those two are much better than buying paints from Eastwood on Shoemaker, who know nothing about paint or painting techniques, other than they sell it.
Bill S.
i'll help anyone until i see the words shopline or omni then i'm out. same with eastwood or sumitt .
My bad!! Your short answer was not to the OP but to another post(chopt 50wgn), Shine gave the reason not to buff metallic paint. thanks!! PeteQuote:
Originally Posted by mrmustang
I'm not a paint pro so I'm just asking because I'm curious. Is it just certain brands of single stage metallics that can't be buffed? I've worked at a couple body shops and the first one the owner painted single stage sikkens metallics all the time and buffed them and they always looked great. He had many cars and trucks that won best paint awards all over. I worked at a heavy truck frame shop at my last job and the paint shop sprayed many semis with metallic emron and buffed each one from top to bottom. Were these guys getting away with buffing them and not hurting the finish by spraying more coats of color so the buffing wouldn't burn through as easy?Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
Oh Thit!! I bought PPG shopline India Ivory and Onyx black with Europeen Clearcoat ! Am I in for a world of hurt?? PeteQuote:
Originally Posted by shine
when you sand and buff into metallic you expose the metal. your pad will turn black. they may have polished it some but if you try to cut and buff it will change the color and streak.
as for shopline or omni or the rest they are lower end resins with less pigment. will take more to cover . no one can sell top shelf paint cheaper just because they change a label. i did a tri5 with omni black and ended up redoing it with concept. i will throw it away before putting it on a car.
Ok as for me (the OP) I will be using a base with clear, with metallic. I'm not shorting on the paint. Plan on using ppg unless someone tells me its crap. The biggest problem I have is identifying the correct paint, there seem to be many listed under ppg. Using the internet looking at the ppg web site doesn't do much for my education so your inputs are most welcome as long as it pertains to 2 stage painting. Thanks.
Pete: don't sweat it, some don't even know who the OP is or what he wrote. Everybody have a great day !Quote:
Originally Posted by prpmmp
Water Base Urethane Base Coat will be best for durability and easiest for application for you. I know DuPont's latest water base is Cromax. I am sure PPG has one as well, but I'm not sure of their product.
Dennybug: Thanks for your input .Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennybug
Navy, I've not shot any of the new water base urethane product, but what I've seen and read about it is that it's a whole new learning curve, and that you really need a dryer to speed the drying time. Bottom line, my paint guy steered me away from it since we don't have restrictions on the acrylics around here. My paint guy has almost 50 years in the business, and used to be a PPG shop but shifted to independent a long time ago. He stocks HOK for those who want it, but he pushes Matrix, which was developed by high level guys who left PPG and started their own line. You can take a PPG code and it matches point for point to Matrix, but their pricing doesn't include the marketing bump. He told me that the water based line is not for the home hobby painter, but is geared to the production shops that can afford the equipment, or that get their equipment free due to their volume of business. Now I could be totally wrong, but I'd advise you to go talk to a paint guy you trust and spend some time before jumping into water.