Bodywork Questions

I'm starting on the bodywork of my Impala. So far I have taken off whats left of the remaining chrome side pieces and removed the clips etc.. I ran up to the Auto Parts Store at lunch and was checking out the tools as in sanding blocks, body filler, dent puller etc. The dent puller looked like it was cheaply made. It looked like it might work on the smaller dents but I have a large dent in the driver side door. Probably needs a new door but I would like to make due with the one I have. For this large dent would I be better off removing the door panel and trying to knock it out from the inside or a combination of both? Is there a better dent puller that I should be looking at? What type of spray gun should I look at for shooting primer? Gravity feed vs bottom cup?

Any time you can get to the back of a dent and work it back as close to it's original shape as possible the better. Without seeing the dent you refer to it's difficult to know how it will react, but often on large, relatively flat panels (such as door skins) a "bump" in the back will pop out most of it if it's of an "oil can" variety.

If the slide hammer you're talking about looks cheap, it's probably worse than it looks. One of the neat side benefits of playing with cars is building a collection of tools. You should never use the excuse "I can't afford to buy the good stuff". For a few dollars more (relatively) you can buy a tool that will last a lifetime instead of a piece of junk that may not get you through the first job. Additionally, and this may be hard to believe if you haven't experienced it, good tools "work better" and make the job go easier, and the learning curve shorter.

As for the the slide hammer, you're probably looking at one of those neanderthal weapons with the screw end on it that you twist into a hole you drill in the dent. SIR, DROP THAT WEAPON NOW!!!!! Below is a picture of a tool that does a much better job, doesn't add more damage to the panel, and won't leave a hole for future rust to infiltrate (you do know you need to seal the backside of a repaired panel when you're done don't you?) They go by a variety of names; Spitznagel gun, stud welder, dent puller gun, etc. Your local wholesale automotive paint supply stores sell them, most of the tool catalogs (which have web sites too), and of course the ever popular ebay. Good ones will come in a kit with a slide hammer to fasten to the studs you weld on, as well as a supply of the studs. Again, the paint supply stores stock the studs too since most pro body shops use this tool, or it's even more exotic cousins which employ the same studs. Once the stud is welded to the face of the dent, attach the slide hammer, pull back on the slide (with practice you quickly get a feel for the amount of force each kind of dent requires), ease out the dent, once done with that part cut off the stud (sidecutters work fine), and grind off the nub. If you did it well, the panel will only need the slightest amount of filler to smooth the surface. If the metal has been stretched by the original collision, which is frequently the case, you can use the gun without the stud to localize a "hot spot" to shrink the metal (this part takes a bit more practice). So, it's a multi-use tool, and does a superior job to the hack method. Yeah, it costs more, but again.............if you can't afford to do it right, how can you afford to do it wrong?

You'll need a couple body hammers, at least a universal dolly, and probably a heel dolly. A body file would be good, and several sanding blocks of varying lengths and densities, plus a flexible one for contours. Oh, and as new to this as you sound, reading a book on the basics first would be the smartest thing you could do.

And don't buy the cheapest filler or abrasives. The job will go so much better with good supplies.

Our buddy Spraytech will likely be giving you some good advice too, especially on the guns. My preference now a days is the gravity feed gun, especially for the heavier, high build primers, but most of us started on the syphon or pressure cup type. Also the nozzles come in different sizes, bigger is better for primer. Get HVLP guns, yeah, again, they cost more initially, but they use at least half as much paint material and that stuff ain't cheap no mo'. They pay for themselves in the long run (which could mean one job if you're doing a whole car).

Here's one such web supply seller with lots of choices........read to your heart's delight!!http://www.autotoolmart.com/cgi-bin/...24103258812.61

Thanks Bob, The dent puller was the screw type. The dent is at the bottom part of the door towards the back and runs through some of the contoured body lines if that helps?

Currently for tools I have a small wire welder, cutting torch with oxygen / acetylene tanks and a good air compressor that I inherited from my Dad. I have only used the wire welder to fix a broken bracket on a lawn mower deck (weld wasn’t pretty until I ground it down a bit but I think I got pretty good penetration) and the torch I played with enough to get that nice blue cone but I was not sure if the pressure was set right according to the gauges? If someone can help with what I should have the pressure set at I would appreciate that as well. I have not messed with metal work since Metal Shop in High School 18 plus years ago.

Back to the Dent Puller, would the wire welder I currently have be able to attach the studs for that type of Dent Puller?

Damn those stud guns arent cheap!:(

I missed this thread and sorry about that jcb400sb.

If you already have a syphon feed gun you can go ahead and use it for primer only ,thing is , is that more will go in the air then on the car , as material transfer (VOC's , more overspray in air ) is not very good with these type guns. If you have a harbor freight in your town , they have a few HVLP top loader guns that are fairly reasonable in price, I seen one in my flyer that i got yesterday for 49.95 that would work for primer.
A HVLP with 1.5 - 1.7 is good for sealers, base coats, and clears.
Or you might check with your local paint jobbers and see if a painter maybe traded in a gun for a new model.

Those stud guns are great, its the only way to really work a dent thats hard to get to from back side. Never use the screw type dent pullers UNLESS you weld the holes up , as moisture can get in from the back sides of holes and start rusting , therefore poping off your bondo and everything else.

SprayTech

JCT

I don't have the knowledge or experience that Bob and SprayTech have, but I do have an idea for you to consider. You mentioned High School autoshop from 18 years ago. Have you considered taking an autobody class at your local community college? Doing that you can use their tools and have the benefit of instruction and the chance to practice on stuff you won't have to live with when you're done. It might even be something your son could enroll in too. Generally the tuition cost is much less than the cost of the tools you would buy and you would learn which tools you really need. I am currently taking just such a class and am really enjoying it.

Pat

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/search.taf
just type " HVLP " in they're search .....

There is this 2 but, I don't know how good it is ?
ITEM 3223-2VGA <<<
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3223

Thanks Guy's, I appreciate the info. and I will check out Harbor Freight. I did have some holes in the body were the trim clips had been removed and managed to weld them shut. Worked out better than I thought. Welds were a little globy but grinded off fine. Even Had my son grinding the little trim nubs off (not sure what those are called) until his buddy's wanted him to go play basketball. That's ok a hot piece of metal had landed on his pants and burnt a hole in them. My wife will love that. I did have a little trouble were the body piece that wraps around the headlight had been damaged. When I tried to straighten it, it broke off. Tried to weld it but I ended up with a shiny puddel of silver on the drive way. Have any of you run across this and how does it have to be welded? Also found out the car had been T-boned in the passenger side door. The Car is brown and the door is gold under the flaking brown paint.

I put a piece of copper ( flattened pipe will work ) behind the hole then weld it up >> " less wire "
don't know if you know that but ,if the hole is small you can just stitch it right up... then remove the backing ...

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Originally posted by JCT400SB
did have a little trouble were the body piece that wraps around the headlight ,Tried to weld it but I ended up with a shiny puddel of silver on the drive way. Have any of you run across this and how does it have to be welded?

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sounds like it was "stainless" , you'll need stainless wire to weld stainless ..
or if it's just "to thin" or chromed tin , turn your settings down really low or brazen it w/your torch ... not sure what you mean by

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the body piece that wraps around the headlight

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? got pixs ?

and Guys.... if I'm wrong , please correct me ... :D

but have you been here ? > http://www.autobody101.com/

cool place ,lots tA' read ....
maybe it'll help 2 .....

Thanks, no I have not but I will check it out.

just my 2 cents but if its a door u can try to air a inner tube up in the door after u use the stud welder and its cooled down to help with popin the dent out¥(^_^)¥

Obviously, without pictures, it's hard to tell you exactly what to do about the door. But this is something to consider. A used door from a southern or western salavge yard will probably run you no more than $150 to $250. While doing the work yourself is cool, just don't sink more into the door in time, tools and materials than the cost to replace the door.

The community college courses for doing body work is a good suggestion. I'm heading back in the fall for welding. Good luck with the project!

Thanks for the reply's guy's. Havent had a chance to take the panel off yet to see how much of the dent I can get out as I've been concentrating on the rest of the car. It's the last part of the body work I'm going to tackle. As soon as I can barrow a digital camera I'm going to post sum photo's.