Trying to decide on Chassis Saver or Powder Coat on my 37 Roadmaster frame.
Would love to hear pros and cons of each.
Thanks.
Printable View
Trying to decide on Chassis Saver or Powder Coat on my 37 Roadmaster frame.
Would love to hear pros and cons of each.
Thanks.
This subject has been discussed at length over the past few years, with pro's & con's debated over and over. Here's a link to an initial search of "posts" subject "powder coating" - http://www.clubhotrod.com/search.php?searchid=514883 where you can read some of the past discussions.
You live in Colorado, with the associated chemicals used throughout the winter for snow/ice melt, and IMO that is one of the biggest factors in the decision of coatings. You mention "Chassis Saver", which is one of the "one step, paint over rust" products. To powder coat you're going to be sending the bare frame and all associated hardware (fully disassembled) to a shop to be media blasted down to bare, clean metal, right? Seems to me that you're at opposing ends of the spectrum - Chassis Saver for the quick & dirty, paint over problems approach vs powder coating which requires total disassembly.
Regardless, I'm a fan of thorough cleaning, epoxy primer which binds to the metal, and two or three coats of your final paint color. My experiences with powder have been bad, but likely due to poor surface prep on factory coatings. If I lived in an area where it never gets below 35F I might change my mind, but I will never powder coat a chassis or any part that might flex. Any flaw (coating crack, deep scratch, etc) that lets moisture in lets rust start, and it can migrate beneath the coating undetected. Others here disagree, and can show examples of powder coated parts that have lasted for many years in severe service.
The frame will be totally dissassembled and sand blasted so that is not an issue.
The shop that will be doing my suspension work has quoted $200 to have frame powder coated and higher cost due to labor to paint the frame with chassis saver.
I'll have him quote Epoxy primer and 3 coats of paint.
Thanks for your help.
I would be very wary of a shop that would powder coat a frame for $200---------------
Also, look to see if they have an oven big enough to get the frame completely into as it has to be heated twice!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the advice. I will double check the cost and reputation of the shop.
If you take time to sift through the earlier posts to get past the trash and find the real threads on the subject (the search engine here really sucks!) you'll find references to some powder coating jobs with as many as seven (7) coats of powder, each one baked, then cooled for the next coat before being baked again. I agree with what Jerry says, anyone who's quoting $200 for a chassis coating job is setting you up for problems later. Are you confident in his painting ability?
Roger, 7 coats is interesting.....all three of our powder coaters say that two coats is the max for a quality job.....one coat color and one clear. Seven coats would get really thick.
My rock crawler frame is powder coated and it flexes a bunch with zero issues in 7 years except for locations where it laid on its side on rocks or I hit rocks underneath. My only complaint about powder coat is that, if I want to weld an extra bracket on the frame, it is difficult to reapply the coating OR a pain to match it with spray paint.
Robot,Quote:
Originally Posted by robot
I agree that I'd never heard of more than two, but one of the biggest fans of Powder Coating on here (Streetwerkz) posted his pictures of a rock crawler frame, saying it had seven - link here http://www.clubhotrod.com/hot-rod-ta...tml#post405055 - see post #5 with the pictures. You live in one of those areas where I believe Powder is a viable alternative - arid and seldom any snow, and even low on moisture in general. Around here my Jeep, used year round in all weather, plus running creeks in the dry times, has powder coating coming off in sheets on my gas tank skid - started wicking moisture at the edge, rusted beneath the powder and once I noticed the loose edge I was peeling pieces off that were nearly a square foot in area. Then the adjacent coating that had not rusted underneath is all but impossible to get off, so paint is now over old powder and bare, rusty metal :mad: Also both bumpers are rusting at the weld joints. Powder and snow belt don't match, in my mind.
Roger, I have seen powder coating with the similar problem but didnt ask the experts if it is a powder problem OR a preparation problem.....I have also seen paint do similar stuff. Powder coating is essentially melted on....it theoretically sticks to the surface really well and flexes with the surface. Mine is really hard to chip but it can be penetrated. Where my 40" Goodyears turn and hit the frame, they have worn the powder off....but there is no "edge" for moisture to get under nor can I lift a chip off with my fingernail. In fact, it is a bit difficult to scrape the paint off with a knife....
We need an expert who really powdercoats to answer....not me who simply visits a powdercoat shop and writes a check to them.
First thing is check to see if the powder guy you're using does have an oven big enough. Some coaters have a heat light that can melt the powder, but only small areas at a time. It works but is not a good job. I think this could be the reason he's charging $200.
I have a good friend who has his own powdercoating business and have worked there helping him out now and then. He never applys more than 2 good cover coats. He always heats the part up first so it can out gas as well. His oven is 6'x6' and can do rears, bike frames ,4 wheels at a time, but not a car frame.
Again, I would ask to see the oven this guy is going to use.