applying BC/CC and door jambs etc

This may be a loaded question but what is your process of painting BC/CC when it comes to door jambs and hoods and trunk lids? Do you apply both the base and clear in jambs and under lids first and then base and clear the rest of the car or do you apply the base only to the jambs and the rest of the car and then clear everything at once?

If you BC and CC the jambs first and then do the rest of the car do you tape and mask the rest of the car when doing the jambs or do you sand any overspray or do you simply ignore the overspray?

Thanks.

Yep, loaded question:LOL:.
Me, not being a pro painter, will 'jamb' it with color then do the CC over everything. But with that said, it will depend on the painter and his personal technique. What you are really looking for is color over the entire car and the slickly applied CC over the external panels while the jambs, firewalls, trunk inner panels usually aren't quite as important and get cleared while doing the rest of the car. Then there is, as you said, possibly masking off and that dreaded line where you taped and now you have to cut and buff out. No way would I try to sand a car, leaving more dust or sludge after a jamb BC/CC, try to clean then do the rest of the car external panels.

As you see, no easy answer - it's what works best for you - and hope this wasn't too confused:HMMM:

I do the bc/cc on the jams, inside of the hood and trunk first let this dry, then wet sand around the openings and on the outside of the panels. I tape these off using "soft line" tape first, then regular tape and masking material, then do the outside.

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Originally Posted by Dave Severson

... then wet sand around the openings and on the outside of the panels.

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Do you wet sand to remove all of the over spray or are you simply roughing it up to accept the base coat?

Thanks.

I wet sand til at least all the clear coat is removed.

Unless you plan NOT to wet sand the jambs , you can BC the whole car and tape the jambs. Then CC the rest of the car. That saves time and money and also saves lots of wetsanding.

I usually BC/CC the jambs first, then back mask and spray the rest of the car a day or so later. How you back mask is the key, otherwise you risk overspray in the jambs, or a hardline where you have back masked.

On a smaller vehicle, I hang all the parts around the car and shoot it all at once. Then install doors, fenders,hoods, etc afterwards.

Bill S.

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Originally Posted by mrmustang

I usually BC/CC the jambs first, then back mask and spray the rest of the car a day or so later. How you back mask is the key, otherwise you risk overspray in the jambs, or a hardline where you have back masked.

On a smaller vehicle, I hang all the parts around the car and shoot it all at once. Then install doors, fenders,hoods, etc afterwards.

Bill S.

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I really like using the thick foam type tape that 3M makes, but dang it gets expensive!!!! I've been using their other narrow soft line tape with the vinyl top layer and adhesive below it that holds it up off the paint a bit and makes for a soft paint line, easy to wet sand out.

What do you guys use in the shop, Bill? Always looking for a bit less expensive method!!! Panel painting is a lot easier, but with metallics, Tri-coats, etc I've never been able to get the paint right unless the car is assembled??????

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Originally Posted by Dave Severson

I really like using the thick foam type tape that 3M makes, but dang it gets expensive!!!! I've been using their other narrow soft line tape with the vinyl top layer and adhesive below it that holds it up off the paint a bit and makes for a soft paint line, easy to wet sand out.

What do you guys use in the shop, Bill? Always looking for a bit less expensive method!!! Panel painting is a lot easier, but with metallics, Tri-coats, etc I've never been able to get the paint right unless the car is assembled??????

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I also use the foam tape (they make different sizes for different jobs)...

Bill S.

for jobs at work i cut it in i shot the jam.s first then rolled the tape back i used 2 inch tape after sealer or base i push the tape with a glass stick or paint stick so there was on sealer or base color changes . so tape was sicky side faces the paint side .much like the 3 m. for show paint jobs i shot the parts as they would hang on the car a shoot the hole back clip.

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Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

for jobs at work i cut it in i shot the jam.s first then rolled the tape back i used 2 inch tape after sealer or base i push the tape with a glass stick or paint stick so there was on sealer or base color changes . so tape was sicky side faces the paint side .much like the 3 m. for show paint jobs i shot the parts as they would hang on the car a shoot the hole back clip.

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So did you get that Herbet99 :confused:;)

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Originally Posted by rspears

So did you get that Herbet99 :confused:;)

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and you did not ? it.s not clear ??? ok ... paint the jambs and clear wait to dry . i tape off the out side of car when i cut jams in to keep the the clear from lifitng as the base over lap could pull up fresh clear . on the jams i tape them off up to about 1 3/4 from were you want to break it. there trick s to this. you want to be past the edge to shows up like a sore thumb if you see the break with door shut. when your about were you want the soft line you take 2 inch tap or 1 inch can work to you more or less roll the tape sticky side facing the part your paint ing this will face painted side . you stick about 1 inch down in the jam rest will over lap when door shuts tape tabs hold the 2 inch tape sticky part from lapping past the jamb when door is shut . this is the way we did door jams when 3 m did not make the tape . is this better:D

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Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

and you did not ? it.s not clear ??? ok ... paint the jambs and clear wait to dry . i tape off the out side of car when i cut jams in to keep the the clear from lifitng as the base over lap could pull up fresh clear . on the jams i tape them off up to about 1 3/4 from were you want to break it. there trick s to this. you want to be past the edge to shows up like a sore thumb if you see the break with door shut. when your about were you want the soft line you take 2 inch tap or 1 inch can work to you more or less roll the tape sticky side facing the part your paint ing this will face painted side . you stick about 1 inch down in the jam rest will over lap when door shuts tape tabs hold the 2 inch tape sticky part from lapping past the jamb when door is shut . this is the way we did door jams when 3 m did not make the tape . is this better:D

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maybe if you add some pics.....:confused::LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL::3dSMILE::3dSMILE:

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Originally Posted by randyr

maybe if you add some pics.....:confused::LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL::3dSMILE::3dSMILE:

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you guy must not be painters ?? :) your doing the same thing with masting tape rolling it and end up with much like you do with the 3 m soft edge foam tape...... your wheels now turning:HMMM:**)**):3dSMILE:

Thanks Pat! I've painted a couple of cars as a hobbyist but it's been a while. My most recent painting experience was shooting epoxy primer on my 37 Ford fenders. Needless to say, I don't know all the tricks of the trade.....:)
I appreciate the visuals!! Perhaps others do too.
Thanks!!

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Originally Posted by randyr

Thanks Pat! I've painted a couple of cars as a hobbyist but it's been a while. My most recent painting experience was shooting epoxy primer on my 37 Ford fenders. Needless to say, I don't know all the tricks of the trade.....:)
I appreciate the visuals!! Perhaps others do too.
Thanks!!

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Yep, the visual, plus your last explanation about "...rolling up the tape" made it "click". I was scratching my head in confusion before that! Thanks for explaining!

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Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

...i tape off the out side of car when i cut jams in to keep the the clear from lifitng as the base over lap could pull up fresh clear...

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I think I got it on your second post. Question though... where do you start to tape the outside. do you tape it right at the body line between the exterior of the car and the jamb or do you start the tape more towards the jamb side of the body line? And, is there any concern about the base overlap on the jamb (when you paint the exterior) lifting the clear on the jamb?

Thanks for everyone's input. This is really helpful. I'm about ready to paint my current project and this will be my first attempt at a base coat / clear coat paint job.

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Originally Posted by herbet99

I think I got it on your second post. Question though... where do you start to tape the outside. do you tape it right at the body line between the exterior of the car and the jamb or do you start the tape more towards the jamb side of the body line? And, is there any concern about the base overlap on the jamb (when you paint the exterior) lifting the clear on the jamb?

Thanks for everyone's input. This is really helpful. I'm about ready to paint my current project and this will be my first attempt at a base coat / clear coat paint job.

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well if the car is going to be sealed over all ?some sealer will not sand very good to get the over spray off when you shoot the jams . many times i did not seal cars i would tint my primer then wet sand with 600 gray back 3m sand paper .gold back 3m 600 is more like 400 gray back you want less grit for final finish. you do not need many coats of clear in the jam.s so this cut down on build up .you just want to keep over lap of clear off the out side of the car, the brake off were you tape the out side of car can be fine tuned after good and dry by sanding . on some car s we tape the hole door surround off and take the door latch off and work in panting the jams .i did do many this way i would cut the jams in just after i sealed the out side of car . spray the clear coat on jams on last coat i would shoot the jams first them coat the out side of car so over spray would melt in .. this is way ..... i do not post much on painting . i did it for many years i loved to do metal work i told my helpers painting was to get paid for the job but there still is nothing better then a fresh black paint job ....had some very good helpers over the years .but to put it in print less your standing next to the guy doing it can be very trying .

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Originally Posted by herbet99

Thanks for everyone's input. This is really helpful. I'm about ready to paint my current project and this will be my first attempt at a base coat / clear coat paint job.

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Not to stir the pot, but have you considered doing what my paint guy calls "sugar coat"? You shoot single stage to get coverage, but on the final coat you mix in 50% clear with your color. The pigment tends to settle, giving you the depth of clear without the extra coat. You might talk to your paint supplier about the process. Several of the custom painters around here use the approach, it's what I did on my chassis, and is what I will use on the body when I finally do it.

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Originally Posted by rspears

Not to stir the pot, but have you considered doing what my paint guy calls "sugar coat"?...

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Interesting idea... but I'm not sure how that alleviates the need to do the jambs separately.

And would that prohibit you from color sanding? which I'm assuming is one of the benefits of doing a two stage paint job.

I may use a slight metallic paint. Not alot of flake but something like a modern production car.

50/50 can be done with single stage with the clear not worth the time as your going to walk around the car till it is covered .then just building up coats that are tinted with color my feeling that your not going to gain any thing just a harder finsh to fix down the road . i would never do it on black paint but we did that 30 years ago on metallcis jobs in enamels and lacquer .i used this 50/50 mix i made up for blending clear for solid color i do not under stand why they call it sugar coat ? what your doing is making it a candy . i done many single stage paint jobs were we would put down 4 coats then wet sand it with 1000or 1200.then wet it up by shooting two coats down . clear can change color up single stange paint just so you know . the way i like to do them is to shoot the car in single stage sand them flat and put clear on them or more color . i done show cars in black were many have asked how many coats of clear .black i do not care to clear less it is a driver or custom graphics were you need to burry a edged

Thanks all, I'm planning a Brittany Blue color so I think I will stick with my plan to do a two stage job. I guess I'll see how it goes.