Printable View
I have been looking at single stage urethane paint and wanted to see what you might tell me about these suppliers
and their product......
TCP Global, Restoration shop, Graphic Red - 1 gal paint, 1qt hardener, 1 qt reducer.
Eastwood Company, Pinup Red - 3 qt paint, 1 qt hardener,
they say you do not need reducer(??????)
The price is about the same for both, about $120.00
look up ARS in Chandler, they also have a location in Scottsdale. 480-926-3446. you can go there and look at the color chips in person and have the paint made right then and there. they offer different grades of paint from ppg and other manufactures. You can save the shipping and have someone local to work with if you have problems or need to make and match more paint. I talk to brandon at the chandler store.
As someone who sprays this on a weekly basis, I'd suggest your local paint jobber, pickup the paint the same day (or a day before) you plan to spray, in that way the supplier can adjust your reducers and hardeners for the days particular weather conditions. Heat and humidity this time of the year require the proper balance or you could end up with solvent pop, drips,runs, or dry spray.......Quote:
Originally Posted by curmudgeon
Bill S.
i just painted to top of a 1968 mc trailer fiberglass i used ss enamel and dxr 80 hardner. i didnt know that it need to sit mixed for 30 min. it went on great and great gloss. but when it started to dry there were dimples down in the paint. i let it dry and decided to fill in the dimples with ss paint with no hardner. i came out great but now the top coat will not dry. i was going to sand a buff and when i put the bucket of water on the side i wasnt sanding there was an indention in the paintfrom the bucket bottom. any thoughts how i can get it dry enough to redo?
you will have to strip it any paint with a harder like dxr80 in a tp coat will make it wrinkly when it drys .the hardner cross links the paint so it not just strait enamel with out the hardner not much can be done with the paint hold out is very weak top coating will not happen so strip it and recoatQuote:
Originally Posted by 69judge
Just realized you changed subjects in the middle of another thread!
Welcome to CHR. To get the most response it is really best if you start a new thread as opposed to jumping into the middle of someone else's thread with your question. Maybe if you ask Bill (PM mrmustang) he will pare out these two replies and start one for you. Not a big deal, but it can get confusing.
Along the line Pat advised, you really don't have much choice but a chemical stripper at this point. Not much you can do to get it to dry enough to sand. You might be able to lift it with single edge razor blades as a scraper if you want to take the time. I think I would buy a couple of gallons of stripper that's fiberglass friendly, slop it on a panel at a time, don the rubber gloves and goggles and get after it. Just my $0.02, and I'm not a pro painter!!
you can strip it many ways . you can wet sand it to keep the paper from plugging using dx 330 or lot of dish soap in the sanding bucket with water or for the 330 a spray bottle use 180 to 220 stop when your just past the soft paint. air craft stripper is one way . watch that it can eat in the glass finish coat .steel blades is a no ..no less you done it many times if you dig in you will have more work.plastic body spreaders work good for clean up with striper .you may strip it with a red 3 m pad and use enamel reducer do a small spot then wipe dry then when you get the goop off wet sand the finish out
call barry kives at southern polyurethanes inc .
i done many enamels jobs back in the good old days and shot alot of strait acrylic enamels delstar with no hardner . and many gallons of synthetic with and with out a kicker .we would do some jobs . were we would shoot the first two coats with out kicker then on the last coat add it .this would let you do two paint jobs with one pint of dxr80 for the cheap jobs it allways worked but the coats were wet to wet . air cure is a no go on top coat that .i ever see lifts it or will pull up the base and wrinkle it you have a base that has had a harder so that is hard now you have a gummy top coat .then top coating it with a paint with a harder in for the finale coat .if you cover it and it looks ok give it a week or to in the sun it will fall apart but ask your ppg rep see what he tells you .but striping it is the only right way
Getting back to the original thread..................I agree with mustang...........go to the local paint place where the local body shops buy their paint and materials. You don't want to buy paint that will sit for weeks or months til you use it.They can give you all the info you will need to do the job properly. I would also stick with brand names like PPG, Dupont, etc., but that's my opinion.