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Thread: help choosing how to proceed with primer
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Dago Red is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 51' F1 w/429, 70' Nova w/427
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    great, thanks very much. that makes it a lot easier, and I can rattle can stuff in the front yard. at least this stuff, once it comes to the larger pieces I don't know what I'll do. I probably need to find a good local shop that doesnt' charge an arm and a leg.

    Red

  2. #2
    SprayTech's Avatar
    SprayTech is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 37 Ford tudor humpback
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    do you have an auto body school/ Votech close by ?
    Maybe you could get the primer shot cheaper by the students .

    Doesnt hurt to look around , or go to paint jobbers and see if some one does some painting on the side for a reduced price .

    materials arent cheap any more , as I am doing a 86 Bronco II on the side and I have $700 in just paint right now . and thats my cost Thats not including the little bondo i used , or the primer , or the tape and paper , or sand paper . add all that and its around 1000 bucks .

  3. #3
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    stovens is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I know a guy who paints for a living. I asked him about using Rustoleum on the under coat to seal the metal. He told me he had a bad experience painting over it one time where the overcoat/finish coat wouldn't stick. He's not sure why, said it probably was a brand incompatibility issue. But since he'll probably spray the truck for me, he said to stay away from it. This is just one guy's opinion. He also did a motorcycle for me, that I swear I primed with rustoleum so who know, just thought I'd throw that out there. The motorcyle turned out great!
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  4. #4
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    maxxmuscle is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    NAPA sells an etching/epoxy spray can primer that will work great for what you need and can be used as a solid base for paint later. It will work under any of the "name brand" paint lines and is pretty good quality. It isn't cheap, at roughly $7 a can, but the fact that it doesn't have to come back off and WILL protect your freshly cleaned metal is very well worth it! Donny
    If its not worth doing right, its not worth doing... Donny, MaxxMuscle Custom Painting

  5. #5
    SprayTech's Avatar
    SprayTech is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thats why I never usually mix brands , I am a PPG man through and through .
    30 years and only have had 2 things go bad in 30 years of using it . Both were not my fault , one was found that a catalyst i was using was packaged with out a certain chemical in the batch , and 1980 sealer i used to use a ton of , didnt seem to have the body it normally had , and i shot it and painted over it , and it turned to cottage cheese ....LOL . Found out it was trailings from cleaning the vat they canned instead of disposing it

    If you dont feel comfortable using Rustoleum , ask a jobber where you will purchase your paint , if they have a recommendation on an aerosol metal etch prime that will be compatible with your top sub-straight .

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