Thread: help choosing how to proceed with primer

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Dago
I had started a similar thread last year, but not to powder coat. On my truck,I used a 3m drill bit attached abrasive pad. As long as there is no paint, or very little, the pads are great at taking the rust off. It took about 1 1/2 hours, per fender per side to do this. I then used a rust converter/primer, which converts whatever rust is left to black primer(zinc oxide I believe, but don't quote me on it). I then sand off whatever comes off easily, making sure no rust is exposed which there shouldn't be, or reprime with converter an leave on. Then a quick coat of etch primer, which some people say is not necessary, followed by a two part epoxy primer, which will prime and seal the metal indefinately. Dave brings up a good point about grease though. It is inevitable you'll be redoing and cleaning as you go.
I like the epoxy primer, because it keeps me from putting a time line on the final paint job. I also don't have to worry about water getting under the primer and starting the rust process/paint failure all over again. The epoxy primer is about 70.00 bucks a quart for both parts needed. I bought a cheap sprayer from Harbor frieght that works fine, but wasted paint because it wasn't gravity fed!

$160.00 to blast all four fenders clean is a good deal though. I've read about metal fatigue and sheet metal warping with blasting, but those old fenders are pretty thick.
I read this article on rust removal, seemed good to me.
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/206.cfm
Good luck Steve.