Will picklex 20 work if I plan to epoxy primer in the up coming months? From reading the instructions on the primer it says that the OSPHO stuff from the hardware store is not compatible with the epoxy primer. I need to sand blast some areas and do some welding then eventually epoxy primer. What can I use to protect the metal from rust and weld on but also prep for primer?
I think DuPont has some Epoxy primer in a rattle can,,,, hey, it's better then nothing!!! Just dust a little on there, then scuff it good before you shoot the good primer.
i have used many of the spray can etch primers the dupont 215s was used in many of the shops i work at but they do not make it any more but A-4115stm will work SEM makes some but i like the tempo A902 or 801 should do or the sherwin williams 988 etch primer i really like the 215s but not made any more so the SW i think works good have used the spray can stuff for small parts when you do not want to load up a gun
I have been using Ospho or a similiar product for as long as I can remember. I take the car down to bare metal, Ospho it (2 coats)let sit for 48 hrs, wire brush/DA to get ALL the residue off & spray 2 wet coats of Epoxy primer. Of the current epoxy primers on the market I like SPI's the best.....good luck.
Don Meyer
well etch primer and epoxy dont mix. so if you're going to use and acid etch, stick with that all the way through. but the problem with that also is that body filler isnt compatible with acid etch primer either. so you'd have to go from the etch primier to a urethane primer. the projects im working on at work are in bare metal for a long time, sometimes more than a year, and itd be too much of a pain to keep priming little spots at a time, so what i use is something called Gibbs, its kind of like an oil and silicone free version of wd40. they claim you can paint right over it, but i sure wouldnt try it! but just wipe it down with wax and grease remover, and you'd never know it was ever put on. That way you dont have to worry about priming little areas at a time.
clean it and epoxy it. nothing needed under epoxy. the reason for epoxy is to seal it and help with adhesion , do your bodywork and repairs then reseal with epoxy. etch primer is useless today.
Here in Florida bare metal rusts immediately due to the high humidity. We have been using Picklex 20 with great results. It will still rust if you touch it with bare hands, but it can sit for extended periods without rusting. Not real cheap, about $ 100 a gallon, but it sure beats having a rusty part to resand.
This frame was done 6 months ago and is still fairly rustfree. Picklex also promotes a better weld, which was it's original purpose, it came out of the shipbuilding business as I understand it.
Don
what exactly is Picklex 20? you spray it on?
Comes in various sizes I think, but we get the gallon ones and put them in a plastic spray bottle. It must have some Oxalic acid in it because it smells like Ospho and will sting you if it gets on your skin. We spray it on and keep it wet, then either use a 3M scrub pad to apply it (if we are trying to get some rust off) or use a cloth to wipe a thin layer on. If you don't wipe it off while it is wet it turns whitish in color.
We use it on any bare metal that we won't be getting primer on in the immediate near future. If any rust shows up you just do the 3M pad routine with a little more Picklex and it goes away. Here is some info on it:
http://www.orisonmarketing.com/picklex/picklex20.html
Don
thanks a lot! thats really helpful, it sounds a little like what i use, but more appropriate to use.