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I have sandblasted everything:CRY: and ready for the next step. I have a 2 part epoxy primer or should I use por15 since there was rust before I blasted? I also am going to do a 2 part metal prep. First is to take care of any leftover rust and the next step etches a zinc coating on the metal.
This piece is outside and its cool outside but there is also rain in the forecast for Sat. So this is getting done tonight or in the morning.:whacked: I will be leaving town for about 2 weeks on Sun. So what ever has to be done it will be DONE Fri night. I have not had a chance to do the filler work so it will be done later, right now I have only time to cover the metal. Can I add to the epoxy in a couple of weeks , filler and a top coat? Or does this have to be done within a certain time period?
I'd just shoot it with epoxy primer and get it covered. You can scuff it up and do all your repairs later. I hate having bare metal, it starts to surface rust almost instantly. Was the rust on it just surface rust or deeper? Wouldn't hurt to coat those areas first with some Por 15...
I treated the metal with a 2 part chemical treatment from DuPont. The first step calls for soaking everything with the part A then rinse with water. After that the whole thing turned a light bronze color. Was this rust or the zinc color coming out?:confused:
Man ,it looks like rust :CRY: :confused: What should I do to paint the epoxy?? I am going to paint the seams and fender wells with the por15 but use the epoxy for the engine compartment. What should I do about the light rust?
Heres some pics after the treatment.....
Looks like a typical phosphoric acid based material reaction. It could be that in the areas that are rusting already the material was used too sparingly or without allowing sufficient reaction time. If it were me I'd go back over the rusted spots with the rust conversion material by hand (gloved of course) as a touch up. Then if you had any doubts about the success of the conversion process spray a coat of etch primer before topping with epoxy primer. If you're good with the conversion process then go straight to the epoxy primer/sealer.
I agree with Bob.
A thorough re-work with something like metal prep (phosphoric acid base) should clean it up. Most of the paint stores have it. Use it per the instructions, then hit it immediately with an etching primer. Some ideas.
http://www.hirschauto.com/acb/showde..._ID=16&CATID=2
http://www.halonmarketing.com/mall/R...tal%20Prep.php
Just to give you an idea of how effective phosphoric acid conversion is here are a couple pics of a chassis in bare metal I've got in process. The first is the frame shortly after delivery with areas of surface rust. The second is the chassis today, four months after doing the process as you described; acid wash followed by wash with water to neutralize, followed by drying. You can even see some finger prints that haven't gotten rusty yet.
I would call it good , I followed the directions. BUT, I have never used the metal prep from DP to compare. :confused: Damn, the more I look at your photos and compare to mine I think I did something wrong. I will take photos to the paint shop tomorrow and see what they say.
I always metal prep any bare metal. Why take a chance??? It's cheap and easy.
I have had metal preps leave a "bronzey" color behind, before.
According to the "experts", you are not supposed to use both metal prep, and self etch primer. Use one or the other.
So what you think HotRod? I did use metal prep from DP it was a 2 step deal.???
Step A metal conditioner, rust conversion and etches the metal.
Step B Steel and Galvanized refinishing system conversion coating, Leaves a zinc Phosphate coating on the metal ready for paint.
From what I have read what you want to prep rusted metal with a zinc "coating" to protect from future rust, or It protects better.
I think I might of used to much,lol. I sprayed it on the entire surface and before it could dry I rinsed with water,per insructions .Then did step B ,sprayed it on 5-10 minutes and rinsed. Only difference was instructions said wipe it on and might of went to 15 minutes,lol.
My advise does not include a guarantee.....but if you used it per the instructions, and it hasn't set too long, I'd paint it!
If it sits for more than a day, I would etch it again, blow out any areas that might trap moisture, and paint 30 minutes after it's dry.
Dang , now something else,lol:LOL: No really I will paint it by noon tomorrow and it will sit over night. Do you really think I should etch it again?
How can I spray a thick coat of the epoxy? I tried it today at 35 psi, about 70 degrees outside ,and a 2 to 1 mix.
Rule of thumb that I have gone by is that you have to spray two coats of any catalyzed paint, for the hardener to work right. The cans or tech sheet should tell you how long to wait between coats.
I've never seen any data on it, but my guess is it has to do with the metallurgy (alloy content) of the part. Here are some splash shields from a '65 Dodge that I did after bead blasting. The two from under the fender did the "bronze" like color, the one from under the rad did more of the "blue-green" thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by HOTRODPAINT
hmm.... that looks a little more like what i am seeing.
I took some photos to the paint shop and they said it was fine and that what its supposed to look like. Well , the car sat outside and theres cloud cover but no rain until tomorrow. To be on the safe side I bought another set of the chemicals to treat again.
Ok heres what I got.:LOL:
Started with this.
There's a tiny little run on the lower edge of the firewall on the passenger side. I'd do it all over . . .:LOL:
Kidding. It looks very good. It's amazing what a little paint will do for a project, isn't it?
Big improvement!
Man, that was a CHORE! Next time I need a smaller spray gun I could not move this big one around. So there is a couple runs but its primer. I just hate all that rust,any rust. Now on to the next step. I am going to get new ball joints ,tie rods ,all front suspension. I am also going to do some 2" lowered s-10 spindles and brakes including master cylinder. In between all that I will fit the sbc and the hooker super comp headers. Then on to the cage and rear suspension. Dont know how I am going to hide all that from my wife,lol.
if you're using the metal prep system, you cant use epoxy over it without sanding or using a D/A. metal prep is an acid obviously, and epoxy is not. the metal prep will eventually lift the paint if the right system isnt used. usually what i do is use just the first step of the metal prep with a scotch bright really good, then wipe it down with lacquer, then use 150 grit on a DA really good until the metal looks absolutely perfect, then 80 grit on a Da really good, then clean it a couple more times, then epoxy. as long as you sand the metal reallllly good, you can use epoxy. it would work right over the top of the metal prep.