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I just finished rolling on the paint on my 71 monte. polished it and it has dull looking spots. I believe that the spots are from where i did not wet sand well enough with the 1000 grit. Can i go back over these spots with wet sanding and then re-polish or could it be something else. I used liquid ice by turtle wax for the polish as I did not do a great job painting. First time ever painting a car. I used semi-gloss black paint made by rustoleum. I cut the paint 50 50 with mineral spirits.
Sounds like it just needs to be buffed more????
Rustoleum??????????????? Your kiddin right? Ice polish is for a paint job that has been done and to make it look better. Not a cutting polish. Try Miguires fine cut or leave it alone- its semi gloss.
I'm in the process of spraying some metal bathroom partitions with rustoleum. I didn't thin it down much at all, just enough to get it to go through the gun. If your rolling it I wouldn't reduce it at all. I've rolled the stuff on steel service doors & it flowed out as well as spraying. I would just leave it alone for awhile and let the paint harden more. We installed the first batch of partitions 4 days after i sprayed them & the paint was still on the soft side. Don't put any wax on the paint as that will seal it and it will never dry right. Automotive paint would have been a better choice, but if your on a budget you have to go with what you can afford. If the area doesn't clean up like you want after it has dried a few more days, just tape off that panel & repaint it.
money was the reason that i had to choose rustoleum. I had some rust under the vinyl that i needed to take care of and a crack in a patch of bondo that had come through the old paint. The paint does not shine like i had hoped that it would but it will not rust anymore. Thanks for all the advice. I think that i will let it cure more and go with a repaint without thinning this time.
someone enlighten me on this process of painting with a roller. For real? How do you get into knooks and crannies and such? That pretty much eliminates overspray. What kind of roller?
http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html
Also,hotrod mag. did an article on this in the july 07 issue.
It's how Henry usta' paint 'em all. :D well with a brush Ann E. way.
Hot Rod Magazine had an article a few issues back regarding painting a car the same way....lots of elbow grease but it turned out kinda Earl Scheib quality (although it takes a lot more sandpaper than Earl uses).
Wonder if Rustoleum makes a metalflake?
mike in tucson
:HMMM:please someone tell me his kidding right and not going to even think about it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 65cayne
well jyardgirl i hate to be the one to tell you this but that rust you was worried about is now just hiden and is still there to only come back in time for the only good way to prevent it from recurring is to chemical treat it which is costly or cut it out and replace. sorry but paint only hides it except when the metal has been sealed.Quote:
Originally Posted by jyardgirl
I did treat all the rust chemicaly before painting. Also repaired the small hole that was under the vinyl top. Then put on 8 coats of rustoleum. Where I believe i messed up was. I did not allow enough time to cure between coats and the paint flashed too quickly. When I painted it was 110 heat index here. Going to smooth all the bubble and runs out and try again. I know that it will never be show quality but it is better then it was. Just looking to make it a little shinier. The paint job that the car came with was horrible. My hubby pulled off a sticker and it took pain and primer with it. there were bubbles everywhere. I was assured that it was painted by a pro ( ha ha). So I thought what the heck I would give it a try myself. Does not cost a lot to do and I love the work.
Hey! I resent that remark . . . :pQuote:
Originally Posted by pro70z28
:eek: :3dSMILE: :LOL: :LOL: But I said "Usta" :D :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
just a thought for you have you ever went to tractor supply they got tractor[implement] paint thats not much more then rustoleum and it puts out a mighty nice shine and can be cut and buffed to an even higher shine.Quote:
Originally Posted by jyardgirl
thank you fordbeast. I will do a search and find one nearby. That is a good idea.
I wonder if Home Depot sells an "automotive grade" paint roller?
From the orange peel finish on all these new cars ,I would say they sell em directly to the factory.:3dSMILE:
Many years ago I had a customer bring his kids 64 Impala into my shop. They had sprayed it with enamel (non-metalic red). It was very, very orange pealy. A roller would have been smoother for sure. :CRY: They said they kept laying on coats, but couldn't get rid of the orange peel. :CRY: I put it in the corner of the shop and let it set until it had time to cure. Then I block sanded it & buffed it and you could not tell it from a laquer job. They couldn't believe it was the same paint, They thought I had resprayed it. As long as there's enough paint there to cut & buff it's surprising how a ruff paint job can be saved.
Henry Ford dip painted a lot of body parts....of course, it was laquer.....dont know for sure if they sanded the body later.....
From what I understand they brushed it on, Cut & Buffed.
stupid question. you guys keep referring to orange peel. What is it and what does it look like.
The paint looks bumpy like the peel of an orange.
thank you. i have that too
though i think that mine looks more like a grapefruit:whacked:
If you have enough material on the car, just keep wet sanding till it gets smooth.... Betcha I'm not the only one here who's started the wet sanding process with 400 grit dry on a DA!!!!!:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
I know this might sound elementary, but be sure that you are using a sanding block while wet sanding. Believe it or not I have actually seen people wet sand without one, which produces less than desirable results!
Dave Brisco
[QUOTE=dangeroustoy]I know this might sound elementary, but be sure that you are using a sanding block while wet sanding. Believe it or not I have actually seen people wet sand without one, which produces less than desirable results!
Dave Brisco[/QUOTE Yes, I will agree for the less experienced, but you dont have to use one to get mighty fine results when cutting with 1400-1600 grit just to knock down the orange peel.
Typically caused by improperly thinned paint.Quote:
you guys keep referring to orange peel.
The paint ripples rather than 'laying down' properly
I know you asked what orange peel is , but the real question you should be asking is how do I prevent it.which can be very hard job(even the auto makers have orange peel from the factory especially back in the 80's when GM first started using clear coat. So dont feel to bad. just remember the smoother you make it the shiner it will be. So wet sanding will get rid of it might take a while and lots of elbow grease. Good luck::)Quote:
Originally Posted by jyardgirl
thank you all. like i said before i am new at this. I do not mind all the hand sanding. I have a rubber block with teeth from 3m that is easy to use. Though my husband says my arms are going to end up looking like popeye. lol
It took 3 weeks to a month for the white rustoleum ,I used to dry......before I could wet sand it.When its dry ,the paint will sand like chalk dust,just washing away in cloud of color.If the paper is gumming up or you have to apply lots of pressure,its not dry.
Seems to be a problem still--looked at the new one's lately? Terrible orange peel on a majority of them.Quote:
Originally Posted by fordbeast
:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: Your joking right.:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by robot