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Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
:LOL: :LOL:
I can just imagine what's going through the minds of some who are reading that out of context!:eek: :LOL:
Oh, BTW, the breathable crotch......................................................oh never mind!!!:3dSMILE:
Yeah, now that I reread it............:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
Don
It takes all kinds to make up the world, so I sure never would have made a comment - but Bob.....:HMMM:Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
Before you even use the wax and grease remover - wash the heck out of it with some dish detergent like Dawn to get the first greasy layers off then go over it a minimum of two times with the wax and grease remover - I will do 3 or 4 but I tend to do a bit of overkill.
And to hijack the thread a bit but still on the same general subject. I just used some high fill polyester primer on my doors as they are "Brookville poor" with a bunch of low spots. It is very hot here today over 90 and the @#$% stuff partially set up in my gun. I've just spent about 45 minutes cleaning it out - what a mess. It was supposed to have a 45 to 60 minute pot life - wrong - today, maybe 10-15. And I used up most of my cleaning thinner so off to the paint store.
The biggest problem with fiberglass is shinkage, where porous areas such as exposed fiber, will trap solvents keeping the paint swollen. Later, as the paint ages, the solvents escape, causing the paint to shink in those areas. Almost any 2-part primer should prevent this.
I have used Marhyde's "Ultimate Primer" daily for 15 years with zero adhesion or shinkage problems. It is reasonably priced, sands pretty easy, and has performed flawlessly.
On any metal surface, I metal prep 30 minutes before priming, eliminating the expense and trouble of using a self-etching primer. Again....zero failures.
I am a believer in "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". The only reason I would consider using epoxy under it, is if it was staying in primer indefinitely..... although I always thoroughly wet sand the primer, and have never had any rusting under the paint.
If you have kept the paint on boats, with the drag and pounding they get from the water, I would be confident with your system.