What do you like best for clearcoating the vehicles that you paint?
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What do you like best for clearcoating the vehicles that you paint?
Generally, it's best to stick with the same paint series as your basecoat.
I used PPG for about 5 years, but I sand and buff every job, and it kicks so fast, that I couldn't get it finished before it was too hard to work.
After that, I tried a few different brands, and settled on R-M DC92 Diamont. It is highly adjustable for shop conditions, and dries slower, which makes it easier to sand and buff. I've used it for about 10 years. I've recommended it to a few other painters, and those who tried it, have stayed with it.
I use it over R-M, Sherwin Williams, X-otic and House Of Kolor "basecoat" colors. No problems.
And it has a nice sweet smell when you cut and rub it! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by HOTRODPAINT
No compatibility issues when crossing products???? I've got a source now for some BASF products, not user friendly at all, but so far I like the product. I've only used some of the primer, and did one bike frame with their paint. Wondering if you had much experience with it?????Quote:
Originally Posted by HOTRODPAINT
No problems between these products at all, but I can't speak for all manufacturer's products.
I use Marhyde's Ultimate Primer, a 2K product, guide coat, seal with a product called Quikseal, then go to color. Any time I have doubts about adhesion, I use Dupont 222S clear adhesion promotor.
Some may be too paranoid to mix brands, but this system has been solid and predictable for me. I guarantee my paintwork, against any abnormal failure, for as long as you own it. Does that tell you anything?
Well, I do mix brands too. Mainly because there are certain products from various manufacturers that I prefer... I suppose it would be better to use everything from one line, or at least it would make the rep a lot happier, huh? I always use a good sealer before paint, who makes the Quickseal you refer to? Might have to give it a try. Without a quality sealer, bleed thru will ruin whatever paint you use....
I'll check it out in the AM, and let you know.
what alot of guys say do not mix paint lines i work at shop where we all ways use two paint systems or more . dupont ppg . RM dupont. ppg acme. SW and ppg l like the old ppg dau 82 and spray many gallons of it the ppg and the 2020 .nct dau75 the new stratoclear and i work at shop were H H and rubber seal sold clear and primer that was just like ppg or you know the pich glow clear like ppg 82? no it was not . and matrixs and evercoat sold stuff to some of the stuff dry slow wheel hard the last shop i work in the hole system was a basted system with just ppg paint the thinners were not ppg or the clears or the k2 primers and if we did use ppg clear they used evercoat hardeners the stuff work but not great but i never had any thing come back just was a pain in the ass you never knew how it was going to sand out wheel out or dry
I use PPG's D893 Global Clear over PPG's DBC & DBU , its rubs like butter even after its been cooked 140 for 40 minutes and sit for 4 days .
PPG stands behind it so I have been using it over their base for 7 years and seen no come backs .
I never liked PPG's 2002 or 2042 as if you didnt hit the buff window just right it was like buffing marble !
I've used the Global clear, sure goes on nice!!! No bake oven here, so I let it set a couple days, and still have an easy time with the cut and buff!!!! Managed to wrangle an invitation to a PPG seminar at one of the Body Shop supply joints for next month. It's a two day deal, should be interesting!!! Hopefully I can learn a bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by SprayTech
Dave, The sealer I use is a Sherwin Williams "Sherlac" product, in gray or red.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/ I have switched from using ppg to SPI. I still am forced to use PPG'S base coats because SPI does not have a lot of colors yet. My Brother has also switched. They are mail order only.
Their epoxy primer is like the old PPG's dp The tech support can not be beat. Call Berry & talk to him....
Have any of you heard of or used Mason clearcoat? Good or Bad?
Thanks, gonna give it a try...Quote:
Originally Posted by HOTRODPAINT
i like the old metal flake clear .i like to pull the old stuff off the pore cap and chew on it like gum:whacked:
It's a lacquer product. One thin coat, wait 30 minutes, then shoot color.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
I' m with you on the Dc92. The stuff is nearly bullit proof. We started out using DC88 then DC89NR when the VOC regulation started being inforced in our area. Stuff buffs good fresh or wait 2weeks and it is OK. I have been using Nason's 4:1 panel repair clear at the shop at home, when the temp outside is under 20. It drys good and is really buffable. Worth a try for those of you that are painting in cooler climates in at home shops. Very forgiving for the novice.
When I asked about Mason products, I think the guy probally said Nason, not Mason...LOL! So is Nason any good?
spi uv clear . it is by far the best i've used in years. not a production clear. buff tommorow or next month. makes no difference.
we use standox and house of color , standox clear we use only the HS for
" show car " paint . clear 3 coats , wet sand with 600 and re-clear 2or3 coats , then sand with 800 and let sit for 2 weeks , then start the color and and buff process , 800,1200,1500,2000,3000 and buff .
Nason is built by Dupont. I like their stuff and haven't had one bit of problem. I really like their self etching primers.