Thread: best primers

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the way i did many paint jobs was etch primer then a epoxy followed up by a build type like a 2k and i mixed brands at the time .i like duponts and sherwin williams etch primers and used aDP 40or 90 the hi fill primers from ppg or williams and top coated with ppg paint at that time ppg did not have the best etch primer but did use the dps from ppg but they did not lock up like the acid etch primers from dupont or williams to steel did some very basic test panels to back this up with many jobs done this way #1 wash primer/ acid etch #2 the dp 40 gray green dp90 black i like the 40 just seamed to cover better and they made like said more colors. then #3 a hi fill primer i used ppg or i like said williams then i would tint the last 3 coats to color of the top coat and sand up to #600 wet dry i allways like the sanded final primer to be sanded before for the color that is if you what dead flat paint job but did thinned the dp and put just a coat of dp to seal the primer . i was not trying not to go here and how or what i did .just to tell you that the 2ks will not do all the filling and fixing of work then you would be ok with any of the name brands

Thanks Guys

A lttle clearer now that products havent run over each other. I'm preping for spring when i give its first coat over bare steel .

For what its worth , do not mix and match products today .
Choose a product and stick with it from start to finish as if you have any thing go wrong with say : lifting , bleed through , non -adhesion , die back ...ect no one will stand behind it as they will say did you use our product through and through ?
Materials are very expensive today and can you afford to purchase it all over again to fix it a second time ?

Not saying it can not be done but its good insurance if you use one product line and stick with it , as help will be easier coming if needed

Materials from different companies are formulated to use as a system and not all brands have the same chemical makeup for their products .