First post, first paint prep job

Hi all. Sorry for the long post, but after all the work I've done I don't want to screw this up. This is my first time at this.
I'm finishing up the prep for painting my 67 GTO. I'll tell you what I've done and I have a few questions.
I completed all the rust repair, a long list that I won't go thru here. I then applied some evercoat filler, the stuff with aluminum in it, I forget the name, directly on the metal, supposed to be made for that. I used this filler for some of my filling, specifically over the welded patches. Then I primered the whole car with DPLF90 black. This primer sat at least two months. I finished some more filler work over the dplf90. 180 grit sanding the dpfl before coating it with the filler. I always started sanding the filler with 80 grit then finished with 180 or 220. After all the filler work was done, I primed with K36. Block sanded (220 grit always), another coat of k36, blocked again, another coat of k36, blocked again. At that point I had it pretty straight, I used the guide coat method.
After the last block sanding, I had a few small areas that need more filler and primer, so I spoted these areas with primer over the minor filling. All of this work was done up to about 2 months ago.
In the last 2 months, I have wet sanded the primer, 2k glazed the minor pin holes and scratches, and touched up small areas with the k36 where I sanded thru.
I am planning on having a professional painter spray the car on Sat. Nov. 25. I have not sprayed any k36 since november 14, until last night. I found a spot on top of the driver side fender that needed filling. This is an area about 4 inches by 10 inches. :HMMM:
Now I'm worried about this area. I filled it,waited an hour, sanded 220 grit with the 16" board, then sanded 500 grit with a hand pad, then primed it with k36 about 30 minutes later. an hour later I wet sanded the primer 600 grit.
Is this acceptable??:confused: Will 4 days be enogh of a wait for the k36 to shrink out? Should I set it outside over the next 3 days in the arizona sun to speed up the curing process?
I think I got in a hurry here at the last minute and screwed up. Sorry for the long post.
Also, does my preping process look right?
Thanks for the help.:whacked:

I just posted in the general "shop talk" forum before I realized that there was a paint tech area. Please see my post over there. It's called "first post, first paint prep job" Thanks.:o

Mod note: all taken care of

You'll find out we aren't real fussy around here, and won't jump on you for minor infractions. If we did, I would be getting chewed out every day for some screwup.

Welcome to the forum. Some of the body experts will be able to help you out, I'm sure.

Don

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Originally Posted by az67goat

I just posted in the general "shop talk" forum before I realized that there was a paint tech area. Please see my post over there. It's called "first post, first paint prep job" Thanks.:o

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if thats the only mistake you make, you're good. welcome to CHR. :cool:

Welcome to CHR first off! Sounds about right... These are the basic steps (skipping some but the MAJOR steps are here) that I use when doing a restoration... Strip to bare metal, epoxy primer the whole car, throw down whatever bondo/metal glaze you need, long block it with 80/180 and then 220 or so. Prime with K36 and then guide coat and do final blocking and bondo. Prime one more time, when it's dry, wet sand with 320 and then 600 (I do it twice because the 320 or 400 cuts down quicker and then go back over with 600 to smooth it out). After that your pretty much done. Try not to put TOO many coats of bondo and primer on the car. Go back over your car one more time VERY carefully for any scratches or marks and wetsand with 600 again. If you go through then right before the painter paints you can throw a sealer over the mark and just paint over it. DPX90 (if I remember correctly) is an epoxy but I use it as a sealer in case of a small bare metal spot and dont have to wait for it to dry and sand. It is a yellow primer and mixes 1:1 ratio and I reduce it just a tad to lay out. Put it on and wait around 30 minutes depending on booth temp and then paint right over it. The painter should know about this. I am not sure if anyone here uses this method but I do and I learned this from an old timer and never had a problem with it.
Another example is when I do an all over job over top a previous paint job like on a newer car, just to be safe I throw a sealer with this yellow primer over top and paint right over it. Again, I've never had a problem with this method.
SprayTech on these forums might chip in here soon, he has a LOT of knowledge on painting and has taught me a ton of things and I still use his methods.

Goat , you should be alright with the 4 day gas off period .
As K36 can be sanded & painted after a 2 hour cure time ( by PPG's P sheets ) IN the correct temperatures ! Faster in hot slower in cold .
All paints/ primers /primer sealers shrink , its just a norm for anything with a reduction & evaporation of solvents of the chemicals !
The main way to keep from seeing sand scratch swelling is cutting your body fillers with a fine grit 180 grit before priming ( eliminates sand scratch swelling /soaking , or what we Painters call falling in )
Other then that your Prep seems to be decent :)
Dont come here as often any more , just popped in and seen my name mentioned :) Thanks Shawn ;) :)

Heh, any time Darrell!

Hi all. Thanks for the feedback.
I took the car in last Friday to get the paint done Sat and my painter showed me some problems that I had with the prep. Some areas not sanded enough, 5-6 little dings I missed, etc. My wife was with me, so I asked her if she wanted me to take it back home and fix that stuff, or pay the painter to do it. Without hesitation she said let him do it!:LOL:
I guess she's misses me...
Anyway he going to block it again skim fill some minor dings, primer it and wet sand it. he does excellent work so now I know it'll look great. He just does custom cars and hot rods.
I've been on it for 2 years. New trunk, tail panel, front and rear window gutters, rear lower quarter patches, misc. other small patches, all the rust is gone.
Looking forward to seeing it done now.
Thanks again.

Awesome! Keep up posted on this and post lots of pictures when it's done!