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Ok I have had my truck back from paint for over three months now and I am figuring that I can wax it.It has three coats of clear on it and it looks great,all I have been using is a quick detailer.Should I put a wax on it or just leave it.Haven't had to wash it down as it has stayed pretty clean.Any ideas?Thanks.:D
I have always heard to wait 30 days, for catalyzed clears. I have even had customers who couldn't wait, and waxed sooner, with no problem.
Unlike the old days, the new urethanes don't need wax for protection. For appearance you can use glaze (which washes off with water), a detailer, or wax. They all will fill minor scratches or haziness.
Yup, glaze is the best way to go. I have customers who swear by Ultra Finish. www.ultrafinishproducts.com
I love that stuff.
Yup, what HRP sez..... I never use wax anymore. A bit of glaze, then my favorite, Maguar's Final Inspection....
The guy that painted my car said should wait 90 days. I don't really think it makes any difference.
Jack
In case anyone is wondering why the recommendation is made in the first place, the idea is to allow the paint to breathe. Depending on how it was cured (totally air dried or heated booth, say around 140* for 1/2 hr, or anywhere in between) the paint will continue to off gas for some period of time. The concern by paint manufacturers and appliers is that waxing could trap some of the solvent gas and dull the finish from within. You may hear the term "die back" for this condition. The variation in time recommended is usually based on ambient temps (the warmer it is the faster the gases are driven off), and the painters tolerence for risk. If the paint's been baked off in a heated booth or with an infrared lamp system, this caution may not be necessary with modern, low VOC paints.
I agree with the glaze/detailer suggestions, though as noted, they don't last long. For the non-painters, if you've ever had a paint job, or detail job done, and a couple to few weeks later buffer swirl shows up it's because the glaze has "worn off". Poor detailers use it to hide crappy buffer work.
My uderstanding is that glaze comes off with water. Is that true? I never tested it.
Yup, one good wash job and it's pretty much gone.... I like it that way thought, no chance to get any fugly buildup on the car......
Use some polish and glaze mixed together. I do that with a buffer on about 1200 rpm and it comes out like glass. SM foam polishing pad glaze and Snap On polish to be exact. Cleaner Wax is ok to use after to kind of keep it shiney after washing but not needed. And Bob is right about the outgasing of the solvents and having to wait 30 days. When we are doing a car though and the customer needs it right back and wants it waxed then we just do it. Haven't had any problems with that.
Well with the new clears i recommend wax in the spring and fall. Polish all summer just to help in release of deeper dirt and grime .
For a "glaze" I recommend Meguirs "Mirror Glaze no. 7", has been the main stay for years in the show car circles. I have tried a lot of them, nothing has ever performed like Mirror Glaze as far as I am concerned. I have applied many coats one after another of the stuff and it just gets better and better. I have even "sealed" that look under paste wax because there is just no look like it.
I used to Mirror Glaze my truck every saturday when I was a youngster with more energy. :)
Brian
MARTINSR, I think I have used that Mirror Glaze no. 7 before but I could be wrong. I will pick some of it up next time I am at the store and try it out. Right now I am using Snap On polish that works fairly well but doesn't surprise me, but it works. I have used Meguires Cleaner Wax and also Mothers California cleaner wax and both of those are nice for a waxing job.
You should wait at least 90 days or longer depending what part of he country.
With all due respect to some fine people here and great painters I strongly feel they are mistaken on not needing wax. Every weekend I have people tell me the same thing at shows....and evey weekend I can show them paint that is breaking down due to UV lighting.
Wax will give you protection from UV lighting and even urethanes will break down after time in the sun.
For you guys who like Meguairs ....try the last touch....it is far better than final inspection
You are correct on the lack of UV protectant, mine never stay outside long enough to be a concern. My Mustang went waxless for 5 years before I sold it and still looked great. It it's going to be an outside everyday car, wax is a real good idea. Thanks for the tip on the last touch. Should I ever get anything done again, have to give it a try!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by iceburgh
I have used the "liquid glass" wax, multiple thin coats work very well as a protectant. Just make sure you have a lot of spare time, it goes on very thin and takes a bunch of coats with about a weeks' time in between them....
Dave...or anyone else.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
If you get to any shows where you see this
stop in ask for Jim and I will show you how good the last touch is and take care of you.
We now have 3 trucks so I might not be at that event but I try and make as many Street Rod shows as I can
If you have used lacquer, and seen how easily it is softened or stained, you will understand why it needed wax.
Urethane is very tight celled, and will resist gas, lacquer thinner, and other harsh chemicals, long after the lacquer is ruined.....and that is without wax, which also would have been washed off by these chemicals.
I use R-M DC92 Diamont Clear. It's a catalyzed acrylic urethane, that has been around for about 10 years or more, so it's a proven product. We live in the ultraviolet capital of the world, and I have not had a single failure from sun exposure.
The only urethane job that did fail on me was a Sherwin Williams single stage job. It started "chalking out" in a year or two, even though it received regular waxing. Sherwin-Williams is R-M's cheaper line of paint. Obviously I don't use S-W any more, since I guarantee my work as long as you own it.
Not disputing anyone's opinion....just sharing actual experiences.
Great responses here for clear coat care, thanks guys, but I have a slightly diff problem, have a large spot on the bedside bout the size of a floormat.It started "chalking out. How and what can be done here short of a complete repaint?