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I decided to do the work myself, I'm beginning to think it was a mistake:CRY:
I got some paint remover at napa that works good on paint( the odor makes your eyes roll back in your head and it melts the ole condum gloves**), the car I am working on is a 67 so it still has the red primer which this remover does nor even touch,ant ideas on how to remove ? 80 grit and even 40 grit seems like it taking forever (not to mention the mess it 's making)
Why are you removing the primer?? If it is good I'd just 320 it and reprime. You have to watch chemicals for removing paint/primer some will stay on the metal. Use a good soap and water and maybe prep sol before refinishing.
the reason I think I have to remove is it's a west coast car and was told that
being alot of paint and primer was eaten down to the medal that I would be
better stripping the whole car, but I 'm thinking of doing just the hood and top,( it's a wagon so it has a big top) so any help or advise would help !
80 grit and lots of hard work and sweeping is still about the only way to do it. Are you doing the sanding by hand, or with a DA??? I like to either stip everything to bare metal or have it media blasted. I don't like any surprises working their way through my new paint!!! A bit of hard work and time can save you a lot of grief later....
I Stopped Using Stripper Years Ago, When Going To Bare Metal. I Use A Large Feather Edge Pad, 40 Grit, And A Low Speed. Go Slow And Carefully. I Don't Try To Polish The Metal Clean, Just Remove Most Of The Paint And Then Switch To 80, To Remove The Last Bits Of Paint. A Little Careful Hand Sanding Around The Edges, And You Are Ready To Prep And Prime. I Can Usually Have One Ready To Prime In A Day, With Less Work, No Chemical Contamination, No Fumes, And For Less Money.
I don't like using paint stripper either, other then some spots where it is the easiest, most convient to use. I think it is too messy and has the potential to bite you if it happens to get somewhere and not be neutralized and come out later. If you are having problems with it, are you spreading it on thick, only in one direction and allowing it to work awhile? Sometimes it takes more then one application and a quick sand after scraping the majority off. I use a combination of methods at home, all have thier advantages and easiest in a certain area. Large flat exterior panles I use 36 on a 8" orbital, like national detroit, and once majority is off, go over and finish with 80 on a 6" da. No stripper getting into cracks and seams, less chance of warping thin flat panels then blasting. Some things are very difficult to strip without using a blaster. Like hood hinges for example, blasting works the best, put on some epoxy and paint.
I was hoping you guys knew of magic primer remover, I don't mind the smell ,
it's just that by sanding seems to be taking so long,not to mention the dusty mess it makes all over the shop,funiture and cars that we are getting upholstered,I painted the inside which I justed sanded lightly and then wet sand, but the (Top and hood) the best I can describe is like rain drops ate threw the paint down to the medal, but the part that is left (red primer) is so hard that 60 grit (6'') takes forever,and to top it all hotrodpaint makes me feel bad by saying he can do a car in one day:CRY: :CRY: it took me almost 4 freaking days to do the hood:CRY: keep inmind this is a station wagon and I'm
an old man with not that much time left:p :3dSMILE: here is a picture of what I painted inside,(keep inmind I'm not a paint and sorry but I don't know how to load small pictures )
Nothing magic in bodywork and paint, it all takes some patience, time and some hard often messy work. Are you sanding with a little six inch orbital, If so that could take some time. If it is then turning the weight to put it in grind mode to get the bulk of it off may help. A more powerfull sander such as this for larger areas would go faster, if you have the air to keep it powered. I stripped many hoods in roof paint peelers in the early 90's at the ford dealer with one of these. It was easily done in a few hours taking down with 36 gri paper, going over with 80 in a 6".http://www.nationaldetroit.com/tools...aspx?model=900
Go here for a good explination on how stripper works and how to use it. http://spi.forumup.org/viewtopic.php...=15&mforum=spi
Just be happy you aren't getting rid of a bunch of undercoating, then you would really be in for some tiresome messy work.
I have used an 8" mud hog with 40-120 grit to do my striping of paint , works great , less speed means less heat build up , faster paint removal .
GM cars were sprayed with lacquer and with alot of heat , Lacquer will remelt /reflow and clog your sand paper , so if you use a slower speed it cuts a tad faster and wont use as much sandpaper !
Other brands were using some form of Acrylic Enamel , ( Aclyid or Acrylic ) So they dont clog as bad .
FYI :)
Just to make you feel better, it took me a month to get all the primer off my Brookville '31A body. I used a 7" DA with 60 and 80, a long board with 80 and 100, an 8" grinder, a 5" orbital sander, hand pads and lots of elbow grease. All the raised detail as well as all of the as-shipped warts and fungus that Brookville supplies was there for "easy" repair. Guys like Kenseth 17 (in another forum) have helped me a lot.
Oops - also used a sand blaster around the firewall
I never knew how many individual pieces a Model A Ford has that needed stripping, priming and painting - a quick count is 29 plus the hinges and latches. I have probably missed a couple. And this doesn't count any of the frame and its 12 major brackets, engine, trans, differential and other odds and ends.
(QUOTE) "hotrodpaint makes me feel bad by saying he can do a car in one day"
BTW, I am talking about a car without seperate fenders. Early cars will double the work.
Not trying to make anyone feel bad. My sander has about a 10 inch pad on it. I always use the most aggressive sandpaper grits I can without affecting the final outcome. I am a "get-to-it" guy, and I don't like to f*** around with the sanding like I'm trying to put a final polish on it!
I would tell you that I have used 36 grit, but some of the guys on the group would have a coronary! I can get away with a few scratches because I use 2K primer, then guide coat, block sand, and glaze, before paint.
It's just a different approach. Everybody seems to have their own.
Stripper works better when you bust the seal or surface of the paint with 80 grit first .
A lot depends on whether you do it on a regular basis - this is the SECOND car I have ever taken to bare metal in 50 years - and the first was a newer 'full bodied' car, a '76 Granada. IMHO, too aggressive sanding loses detail plus you end up spending too much time filling 24, 36, 50 or 60 grit scratches with primers and blocking (remember - it's my opinion)Quote:
Originally Posted by HOTRODPAINT
hotrodpaint, the comment about feeling bad cause you can do a car in one
day was meant in a joking matter !! you guys are pros at what you do, I don't have the tools nor the skils you guys do thats why I'm asking for help or hints,I'm even having problems loading pictures again I see,irelands child is doing a great job on his,but his chair could use some attention on the arm welt coreI:LOL: ( again just joking:LOL: ) he also has more guts than me, I could never have car part in the house, she also seem to think I got more toys than brains,what she don't know is that I'm trying to make room for another 67 el camino I'm picking up in 2 weeks, I don't need to do a total restoration just a nice paint job for I think it would make a cool delivery wagon for the shop.
[QUOTE=renu36]irelands child is doing a great job on his,but his chair could use some attention on the arm welt coreI:LOL: ( again just joking:LOL: ) he also has more guts than me, I could never have car part in the house, she also seem to think I got more toys than brains,QUOTE]
The chair is my old friend - just fits my butt right - and 20 year old LazeBoys aren't worth recovering.:eek:
With wives, you could consider what I did - kick the b****y old one that became a lush out and start with a new, non-drinker and understanding one that just figures I'll grow out of it when I get old(er):LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
If the factory primers adhesion is that great - Why not just Utilize it .....???
Your not going to get a better adhesion & if your already most of the way there - I would consider finishing it up with some 220 & spraying on a Poly primer & block it out...........
Some primers adhere better to other surfacers than others so be sure to double check if a Epoxy, Poly, 1k laquer , or 2k Urethane would best suit your needs ........
If its to bare metal - You would have to etch it first or use an Epoxy & then primer again .........
I guess its up to you how confident you are about the Exhisting primer