Thread: Pro Painters-What paint brands and why?

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I'll share my experience too: :-) I've been using this system for about 10 years with no problems.

1- Marhyde Ultimate Primer, a 2-part Urethane (guidecoat & sand 360 W/D)
Shermin Williams P1A60 sealer sealer, gray or red.
R-M, HOK, and X-otic Colours base coats, no problems using together.
HOK SG100, or X-otic 34-200 midcoat clear, and R-M DC92 Diamont topcoat clear( can change hardener or reducer for conditions, and stays workable for several days.

2- Most national brands. DuPont-too many coats, hours, and materials for coverage when they went lead-free. PPG good stuff, but the clear consumed up to double the manhours and materials for "cut & buff". Shermin Williams- faded and gloss died with time. In all fairness, this was years ago. I am not familiar with any new products.)

3- No.

4- Use the 3M green tape. I use the 1/8 for most graphic layouts. It doesn't lift or move around as much as Fine Lines, especially on tight radiuses. Edges are almost as clean, cost is lower.

The Fiberglass Evercoat Euroglaze is still the best glaze I've found. It's really a cure all, even in the middle of the spray work. Just repair then spot seal and continue.

Dupont 222S clear adhesion promoter is a great product for adhesion on questionable surfaces, like graphics over existing paint. (Light coats...it runs easily.) The only thing it doesn't stick to well is sign painters enamel.

For adhesion: Base coats (at least mine) always stick to basecoats, but topcoats need to go on within 24 hours, or else shoot another coat of SG100 before topcoating.

Sand & buff: let clear dry 2-3 days. 1200 Meguiars paper, then variable speed air buffer, 3M 06031 with a white foam waffle pad, and 3M 05973 with a gray waffle pad to finish. Minimal manhours, no burned edges or buff marks.

5- 40 years this year. Full time for 20 years.

Paint done with this system, and good care, can still look new 10-15 years later...or longer!....and I live in Arizona, where the sun kills the paint!