It turns yellow tomorrow.

White sealer is complete on the '34. I'll need to scuff it tomorrow, then apply the S/W 1996 Corvette Competition Yellow BC/CC.

Yep, I'm doing it in my garage. Using two exhaust fans with induction motors (no sparks) and taking my makeup air from the house, so it's relatively cool and dust free. Also, the negative pressure in the garage caused by the exhaust fans keeps the odor out of the house. It still amazes me how little "fog" HVLP guns generate.

I broke down and installed a 12,000 BTU air conditioner through the garage wall last weekend. I cool the garage down a bit with the A/C, then turn it off when I'm ready to paint. It doesn't help much with painting, but when I get to reassembly, it will be a blessing to beat this Virginia heat and humidity.

(Note: I understand all of the implications of painting in my garage, so no need to reiterate all that stuff.)

can't wait to see it.

If you are like me, you start to feel like a kid at Christmas when that rod is painted :3dSMILE:

Happy shooting Jack!!

Looking forward to seeing it, I know you have been working on it for a while
Pat

I owe much of the duration of my project to Gibbon . . .

Nothing wrong with home garage paint jobs. Not all of us are blessed with a down draft system at our disposal. We painted my kids car one time, and I painted each door and panel seperately. One fender got some dirt and a couple of runs in it, so as a last ditch effort before totally repainting it I wet sanded it, and buffed it out. It ended up being the best fender on the car because of all the extra time I put in it, so if you get a little dirt in your rod it can be removed.

When I worked at the body shop, every car we painted had some trash in it, and we had one of the best booths available, and we changed filters a lot. Our detail girl saved us every time by sanding out the dirt and buffing the car.

Have fun.


Don

Sounds like a color that will show off her curves:) What a beaut!

Lookin good... Keep posting those progress photos...

Dave Brisco

(QUOTE) "One fender got some dirt and a couple of runs in it, so as a last ditch effort before totally repainting it I wet sanded it, and buffed it out."

I learned this from the old lacquer days! After seeing what a difference sanding and buffing made in the finish, I decided to do them all this way. Today I've got hundreds of jobs in my portfolio, and I've NEVER had a professional booth!......but I am a professional. It's really not the equipment....it's you!

Mmmmmmmm----yellow Me Like Yellow

Basecoat is on the body and the doors. It took a lot longer than I thought because I had to sand down the white sealer coat. The clearcoat will have to wait a day or two.

One question for HOTROD PAINT. I haven't been able to get the basecoat to lay perfectly flat. I always seem to get a bit of orange peel here and there. I've got plenty of basecoat. Should I wet sand it flat and try again?

Henry Rifle, Some guys swear by sanding the base. I don't unless i have a run or dirt, then I scuff, and spot paint with base, before clear.

Looks good!

I was told by many paint guys to never sand or mess with the base coat. I have painted three cars, and all have looked a little 'orange peely' with just the base coat on. The clear will smooth it all out. Looking great!!

I just noticed something else, you said because of the delays in sanding the primer, the clear will have to wait a couple days. I dont know that you can do that....many base coats must be cleared within a few hours at most if the job is to work. Read the instructions on the base coat product for this info. What brand is it? If it doesnt say, maybe it doesnt matter......but I have a feeling it does. Just a thought.

I don't think any of the paint manufacturers suggest sanding base coats either. I know you can see a color change sometimes, when you sand, so you will just create more work.......unless of course, you happen to like "recreational sanding". :-)

Thanks, guys. I've used Sherwin Williams BC/CC Ultra 7000 before, and had no problem leaving the basecoat for a day or two. I'll probably hit it tomorrow night with the clear. I just don't remember dealing with a bit of orange peel. Back in the day, my gun hand was a little better than it is now.

I went back and read the instructions again:

- Do not sand or solvent clean basecoat colors. Small areas may be wet sanded to remove dirt. (Should have remembered that . . . OK, no sanding, except for the bug above the driver's door.) Their troubleshooting guide says "DO NOT SAND BASECOAT." (OK, no more questions about sanding.)

- Recoat basecoat color with CC639 (CC639 is SW's Super Glamour Clearcoat.)

- Recoat basecoat color before 7 days or remove basecoat color.

Looks like I've got some time.

Hey, I've had a LOT of recreational sanding. It's a Gibbon body, remember?

Looking good, Jack... I'm with HRP, I wet sand and buff everything after the clear coat is on, makes for a lot nicer paint job and gives the paint a lot more depth.

Looks really good! Can't wait to see it when it's finished!

I took a look at it this evening. After 24 hours, most of the orange peel is gone, and it's a nice, slick surface.

They tend to settle down after the paint dries a little. You are going to have one nice rod there. Love yellow anyway.


Don

Considering my former cars . . . red GTO, red A-bone sedan, red s-10 Blazer (3 of them), red s-10 pickup, red Chevy dually, red chevy van, red bicycle and red Radio Flyer wagon . . . it was time for a change.

I just don't understand you guys that get stuck on RED for your cars and trucks!!:LOL:

I never had a preferrence, until I bought my red on red '62 409 Chevy. I just felt different when I stepped into that car!

Now my all time favorite is candy red! The same feeling I had for red, but in a deeper richer more "radiant" shade!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

I just don't understand you guys that get stuck on RED for your cars and trucks!!:LOL:

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I'm guilty of that too. Except I like blue.