what paint system to use

I am building another street rod after taking some time off like getting kids through college . Anyway I used to use ppg products and had used Deltron with the DAU catelist etc. But all that has changed - I will paint my car in a extra garage ( as in the past) so the conditions are not ideal. But never the less what system to use - I have heard to use DBU others say DCC (concept) - What is best to work with and most forgiving in These conditions? I also hear and have used Croma Base with their multi purpose clear. Currently the car is under DP90. I was going to prime it with k36 then what to seal with and which series of paint and what clear. Or should I go to a total Dupont system - I know there is alot of opinions - I just am looking for the better less problematic system under garage type conditions. I will get some dirt but will sand and buff out - Always worked great in the past - any input would be appreciated

I haven't used Dupont for years, so I can't help with system advise, but I'd look for something that flashes quickly.

Before you paint, blow the shop out a couple times, and let the exhaust fan clear it. Then wet the floor, blow the shop out one last time, before tacking off, and keep the floor wet while painting. I've never had a great booth, but I cut and buff everything, so you I know for fact you can produce a great job. The biggest problem is a very light color, like white, with a clearcoat. The easiest is a medium pearl or metallic, which hides very minor imperfections.

HOTRODPAINT: If I can ask you............is it easier and better for hobbiests, like us, to spray single stage (catalyzed) or base coat/ clear coat. I'm talking about getting the nicest end result.

I'm old fashioned and have always used Dupont Centari with hardner, but my body shop friends lead me to believe I am living in the past, and should move up to the new way of doing it.


Not trying to hijack this thread, but felt it would be helpful to rped1 and me, and others in the same boat.

Thanks,


Don

You are living in the past, So was I. The newer base clear systems are definetly the way to go. In the conditions you discribed I would use base clear so I could take my time getting the base as free of imperfections (dust, lint) prior to clearing. All of this with the intentions of sanding and buffing the finish. Centari was a great paint for the day. I sprayed many gallons and still would use it on one of my own vehicles. Good luck with your project,send some pics.

I'm about as "dinosaur" as they come on using new stuff. I shoot the bc/cc stuff now, and would never go back to single stage!!!

As far as DuPont, I believe I would go with their bc/cc system. I've shot a bit of Concept, tough as nails but I prefer the two stage paints.... I'm certainly no pro painter by any stretch of the imagination, just letting you know what works for me..

If you already have DP90 on the vehicle , I would recommend staying with PPG .
K-36 will go over the DP90 just fine and give excellent adhesion ( after some scuffing if the DP has sit over 72 hours )
I have used PPG's Deltron DBU system since it came out in the late 80's , it drys quick as it has a reactive reducer ( in 3 different temps ) that kicks to speed up dry times .
PPG also has another Deltron base coat system more people use today its called DBC , it lays flatter but takes a few more minutes to flash , but it does have a hardner that you can use to speed up dry times .
Use the new DC3000 High Velocity Clear , it mixes 4-1 with DCH Catalyst that comes in 3 different temp variables . no Reducer required .

I have painted several friends cars in my garage with DBU & Global clear and have excellent results , just make sure you have good air flow , as if you dont you may get solvent popping from the paint gasses not getting out .

SprayTech

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

HOTRODPAINT: If I can ask you............is it easier and better for hobbiests, like us, to spray single stage (catalyzed) or base coat/ clear coat. I'm talking about getting the nicest end result.
Don

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Spraying single stage is more "foolproof", since you don't need to worry about getting contaminants trapped in the clearcoat, and you may even need to spray fewer coats.

The "upside" to base/clear is more depth to the finish, and if you sand and buff, you will find it a little easier. You might even save a little on materials, but you will spend more time spraying.

Compared to Centauri, urethanes don't attract as much dust, since they flash quicker, and they don't leave as much overspray stuck to everything else. I'm, "grayheaded", and can still remember having blue and pink hair from Centauri! :-)~

So I should use DBC and then use DC3000 clear? What sealer after the K36 or do I not need a sealer? Is there a single stage in this same series to paint parts ( not sheet metal) I hate to base coat clear coat a master cylinder for example. All help and suggestions are greatly appreciated.

I'm, "grayheaded", and can still remember having blue and pink hair from Centauri! :-)~


Yeah, but wasn't that during your punk rock days????

(didn't think we would let you slide on that comment, did you??):LOL: :LOL:


Don

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rped1

So I should use DBC and then use DC3000 clear? What sealer after the K36 or do I not need a sealer? Is there a single stage in this same series to paint parts ( not sheet metal) I hate to base coat clear coat a master cylinder for example. All help and suggestions are greatly appreciated.

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You can use the NCS sealers NCS2003 , NCS2004 or NCS 2005 , white , grey or black , depending on the top color your using .
The NCS sealers will go over the K36 primer .
DBC is compatiable over NCS sealer.

you can go here :
http://www.ppg.com/cr-refinish/phase1/frmHome.asp

And click on the Product information , then Paint lines , go to Deltron , and you can read up on the DBC , K36 ,DC clears , and the NCS sealers , just go to the left side of screen , it will have a drop down window for clears , sealers/primers , and Top Coats .
It has all the P-sheet info on all the products listed , like Mix ratios, Ideal Temps to spray the product in , Air Pressure settings for HVLP & Conventional guns , ect................
Hope this helps you on your painting adventure :)

SprayTech

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

I'm, "grayheaded", and can still remember having blue and pink hair from Centauri! :-)~


Yeah, but wasn't that during your punk rock days????

(didn't think we would let you slide on that comment, did you??):LOL: :LOL:


Don

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No, actually it happened between my "punk" and cross dressing phases. :-)~

I would use Awlgrip. Sure, it's a marine paint, but it looks as good as a spray job if you use a roll and tip technique. That's right, you can roll on a paint job that's almost as good as a spray job. Throw in a little wet sanding and polishing and it can look as good as a spray job. The best part is, you didn't make a mess of your garage by spraying. Now, the gloss isn't going to be quite as good as an automotive paint, but it's going to be 10x as durable. If luxury yachts are shiny enough for your taste, most of them are painted with Awlgrip, then this may be the right paint system for you. Of course, follow all necessary safety precautions since you are painting in an enclosed space.