orange peel help!

[stuckinablizard]

i have been a reader of this site for awhile now and have sat back and listend and tried to learn..i find this site to very helpfull and a rewarding experience when i try to do things to my car instead of sending it out for someone else to do..with this said i have sucessfully painted my car this weekend till today and it looks great...except when i went out today it has an orange peel effect on it...could someone tell me how to get rid of this...and again what a great experience this has been for me i feel so good about my car...thanks in advance for any more help!!
mike....

[pat mccarthy]

if you have enough paint on it you can wet sand with 1200 wet and buff it if it really bad sand with 600 to 1000wet and recoat with clear. if it is not cleared and metallic you can not sand to much on it or it will cut in to the metallic so it wounld have to be reshot or cleared

[stuckinablizard]

i used dupont's ful-ethen ...sinlge stage..it has the clear in it already...qiuck question to add then...i do have some clear coat from a friend..if need be i could clear it again with that right? i dont want to because it acutally has a nice shine...but will do what it takes ..thanks mike

[HOTRODPAINT]

Next time use a two stage with extra coats of clear, and you can sand and buff your troubles away!

If it were a solid color, you could have done some sanding and buffing, but not on a metallic. This time you will need to clearcoat.... unless one of these other guys has tried sanding and buffing the metallic version of this product successfully?

If you do clearcoat, you'll need to rough the surface with gray scotchbrites, and use an adhesion promoter, before the clear.

[stuckinablizard]

would a light buffing help this instead of clear coating it again? its not a show car but want to be proud of it ya know.

[pat mccarthy]

i have sanded and wheeled metallics single stage. but you can not sand it much . i would have to see how bad it is . you would be better off a light sanding and re clear and sand the clear flat

[Bob Parmenter]

I don't think you've responded to some of the stuff the guys have said. If it's a metallic you're kinda toast. If you sand the edges of the little pieces of flake it makes them all weird and ugly.

Let's put what they've tried to say in different words. Your orange peel is hills and valleys. If you want a smooth looking finish you need to knock down the hills. That's why you have to sand. Polishing hills and valleys won't smooth it out, only give you shinier hills and valleys. Pat said you need to make sure you have enough material on there so you don't sand through. If you don't, or if you're not really sure, then that's why the suggestion to clear coat. That would be adding more material to ensure you have enough to be able to sand smooth without breaking through the color coat.

You mentioned using a clear from a friend. Do you know if it's compatible with what you shot? If not, you could end up with a reaction that will blow the whole job. Only use a clear that's compatible with what you're covering.

[stuckinablizard]

thank you for the in depth..it helped alot..yes it is a metalic single stage paint..i will go to the paint store i got it from and get what i need to clear coat it then..thanks alot for all the help guys...i'll post up a pic when i have everything straightened out...
thanks mike!

[m falconstien]

I believe you can recoat with Nasons 4:1 clear. It is some really easy clear to use.

[hambiskit]

Bob's right- I have had the single stage raise from a catilized clearcoat trying to add depth, another way you can do this (and safer) is to prep as mentioned above and re-shoot another coat of your single stage. Just bump your thinner 20 %, crosshatch another wet coat and "walla"

[merc53man]

Originally posted by pat mccarthy
if you have enough paint on it you can wet sand with 1200 wet and buff it if it really bad sand with 600 to 1000wet and recoat with clear. if it is not cleared and metallic you can not sand to much on it or it will cut in to the metallic so it wounld have to be reshot or cleared

YEAH, EXACTLY WHAT HE SAID. BY SANDING IT DOWN YOU MAKE PERFECTLY (ALMOST) SMOOTH AGAIN, THEN SHOOT IT W/ CLEAR, WET SAND WITH 2000 GRIT AND POLISH---A VITAL STEP THEN YOU WILL GET A NICE GLASY APPEARANCE.

[stuckinablizard]

well its been a few months since ive updated this thread so i wanted to post a few pics of the car and to thank ya'll with all the help and yes i did re-clear coat with nason 4:1 clear....with a before and after shots
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y67...zzard/red1.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y67...P101001300.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y67...resizedpic.jpg

[FMXhellraiser]

The car looks good man. Yeah good thing you got a right clear here. At the shop this guy was trying to be cheap and got single stage and then cleared over it... Well the clear he got was different and cheaper than what he should have used and the activator and all was different than the activator for the single stage... In short, the two didn't go along too well and it alligator skinned all over the place... Had to strip it down and repaint it again with the RIGHT clear... Of course the painter got blamed for that... If you did want a show looking paint job for a darker color especially (now some may or may not agree with this but every painter is differnet) you can put your three coats of clear on, wet sand it down with about 600-800 grit and then put another 2 or 3 coats back on... That will give your job and DEEP look and gloss. If anyone on here knows or follows along on Barry's site on SPI (Souther Polyurethanes), he describes this and why it's done and how it helps. Pretty interesting and works too.
I guess that's beside the point though and plus you got the car done already.
Great job!