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First off, new to the site (cool site). Figured this might be a good place for this question.
Im ready to paint my ride. I really like the raw look of flat paint but dont know anything about it (Never painted) first build. i have already shot a primer sealer but would like to cover it with some thing that wont turn chalky. Any help or info will be greatly taken in.
Thanks Eric
First off, Welcome to the forum.
As for the paint, we just shot some catalized one part enamel with hardner, which we flattened to 60%, because we wanted a satin rather than flat finish. Came out great. I plan to shoot my '39 with the same enamel, also catalized, but I plan to flatten it more, to give a primer look to it.
I found out you have to shoot thin coats when doing it, because if you lay it on too wet, it still comes out shiny, regardless of how much flattener you added. We found out the hard way, and had to sand and reshoot.
Nice part about using flattened paint versus just primer is that primer shows spots from rain, bird droppings, etc, Flattened paint cleans just like regular shiny painted surfaces.
Good luck.
Don
PS: Follow the dry times and overcoat times on the can to a T, because if you don't you are asking for lifting and other problems.
I've used the same method, but with catalyzed single stage urethane, and had similar results. Areas that get shot a little heavier, like inside corners, tended to be shinier. The "full flat" mixing ratio worked, and looked a lot better. Those jobs were done about 7 years ago, and still look fresh.
I HAVE A SUPER LO-BUDGET OPTION WHICH I JUST DID ON A COUPLE PANELS OF MY 53 MERC. I WANTED TO TEST OUT A PAINT GUT I BOUGHT ON EBAY ($4 !). I TOOK SOME PLAIN OLD SATIN X-O RUST, MIXED W/ MAYBE 25-30% ACETONE AND SHOT THAT. IT CAME OUT PRETTY DAMN NICE FOR $10/ QT PAINT AND WILL BLOCK RUST MUCH BETTER THAN PRIMER. ONE THING I DONT KNOW IS HOW LONG IT WILL LAST. NOT A BIG DEAL THOUGH, $15 TO RE-PAINT IT!
Well i appreciate the replies. I am going over to my local paint supplier to talk to them tomorrow or Thur to se what they have (Thinking about the single stage enamel with flatener) . Hope fully something easily sprayed seeing that i have never sprayed paint before. So anyway i am going to try to paint this weekend so i will post my outcome.
thanks everyone
Eric
Set up something to test spray on first.
You will want to move the gun side-to-side at an even speed...about 1 foot per second., and you should be about 6-10 inches from the surface.
Overlap each pass about half way, to start a wetspot, and keep it going.
Play with the test piece until you get a nice smooth finish with no runs.
When you can do that, then start on the car.
(This is a very short list of the hundreds of things involved in spray painting.)
wicked thread.......i am wanting to paint my elky a satin finish that is durable as well. this seems to be what i am looking for. Im not a painter yet, but this is the finish I want on my ride thanks guys.....
i use satin acrilic paint same suff that gm uses on door frames and blackouts good stuff and cheap dont no if you get it over there ............also flat paint doesnt stop the water from going threw to your panel work ad rusting it up ..............
I thought that was the reason for useing a basic single stage acrilic enamel and a flatener was to keep water out?
The reason I always suggest it is that there are two things that seperate lousy paint, from good paint.....color holdout (resistance to fading) and gloss holdout (how quickly the surface starts to deteriorate). Flat paints seem to be more susceptible to both, plus the surface is soft and easily damaged.Quote:
Originally posted by bigec2
I thought that was the reason for useing a basic single stage acrilic enamel and a flatener was to keep water out?
By using a good quality catalyzed single stage, with flattener added, you don't have that faded "grayish" look within 5 years or less, plus the surface keeps its uniform matt finish almost indefinitely, and is very scuff resistant.
A lot of guys say it's okay to use cheap paint, because they will simply paint it again. How are they saving on cheap paint, if they pay for materials twice, plus perform the labor twice??? I only did a couple years of college, but I just don't get it?
As far as being "water tight", any paint designed as a topcoat should not allow moisture in. Primer sealers should prevent it, too. The only paints you need to even be worried about are primer surfacers, and cheap flat finishes. If you are worried about moisture, simply use a watertight primer (primer sealer or 2-part primer), or an adhesion promotor/sealer, first.
A lot of guys say it's okay to use cheap paint, because they will simply paint it again. How are they saving on cheap paint, if they pay for materials twice, plus perform the labor twice??? I only did a couple years of college, but I just don't get it?
Truer words were never spoken. He is also right about the catalized part. Cures faster, and is much more durable.
I painted my '27 frame and suspension 15 years ago with Dupont Centari, with hardner, and it still looks great today, after sitting in the sun and rain for most of that time. I know Centari is old technology, but for me it flows nice and I like the results. Plus. I have taken numerous rock hits and wrench drops with almost no chipping.
HOTRODPAINT knows his painting, it is very evident. Take his advice, even though you are painting flat or satin, and you won't be redoing it every 6 months.
JMO,
Don
Ok guys just finished paint the car came out great in my opinion. will post some pics tomarrow.
thanks for all the help guys
eric
Should i or can i sand the car with a really fine paper. (have a blemish or two need to know how to touch up.
thanks eric
Quote:
Originally posted by bigec2
Should i or can i sand the car with a really fine paper. (have a blemish or two need to know how to touch up.
thanks eric
This is where you can get into trouble.
I have never had to spot repair one of these jobs. Any time you spot repair, always plan on never being able to make a perfect repair. If you used the "full flat" type mix, you probably can make a better repair. I would sand the whole panel, mask it off, and repaint "seam to seam". Remember you need two coats any time you are using catalyzed paint. Cover the rest of the car with plastic drop cloths.
The only thing I can tell you on making a spot repair by just spraying an area, and blending away from it, is "Try it".
Quote:
Originally posted by bigec2
Should i or can i sand the car with a really fine paper. (have a blemish or two need to know how to touch up.
thanks eric
Welcome to the paint & body business. :-)
This is where you can get into trouble. Whenever you're spraying a flat finish, HOWEVER IT SPRAYS ON, IS WHAT YOU END UP WITH.
I have never had to spot repair one of these jobs. Any time you spot repair, always plan on never being able to make a perfect repair. If you used the "full flat" type mix, you probably can make a better repair. I would sand the whole panel, mask it off, and repaint "seam to seam". Remember you need two coats any time you are using catalyzed paint. Cover the rest of the car with plastic drop cloths.
The only thing I can tell you on making a spot repair by just spraying an area, and blending away from it, is "Try it".
how long should i wait to try it? i finished painting yesterday at about 12:30am so its been 24 hrs
Since I don't know how quickly your paint hardens, I'd give it at least another day.
Urethanes, in my experience dry quicker than acrylic enamel with catalyst. The there is the differences between brands.
so here is a pic of the car
eric
the rear
other side
Nice looking car, are you going to put any chrome on it? besides the window molding? I think the chrome stripping and maybe chrome rims would look really nice on it.
Well my hopes are to find some chrome smoothies. after i get the hood painted i plan on doing some flames, i want white outline of flames. the wife wants a blue/silver flame kinda ghost like. so we'll see maybe next couple of weeks.