painting help

I'm getting stuff set up so I can paint my '51 Chevy this spring, I have just a small amount of block sanding to finish up, b4 I DA the area's that did not get any filler. do I have to remove all the stainless trim or can I leave it to paint? also, what temp to paint in? I have a portable tent type garage that gets pretty hot out in the sun, this is where I'm going to do the painting but how hot is to hot or too cold? on a 65* day it might be 75* in there, of course I will circulate air within the garage with a fan, and wet the ground or use plastic sheeting under the car and wet that.

If you leave the chrome on:

You will hit it with the sander somewhere.

You may be able to see places that did not get painted well, under the edges of the chrome.

You may have runs coming off of the chrome, since it will cause the paint to be heavier close to it.

If you have any rusting starting under the chrome, it will show up eventually.

You may eventually have paint peeling, starting under the chrome.

If you have any dents next to the chrome, your repair will be difficult.

If you block sand the primer, the chrome will make it harder.

Are you starting to see a pattern? It is easier to do a nice job, if you take it off. That is why good paint shops don't mess around....they just pull it all off without hesitation. It really depends on whether you want it to look like a great paint job, or an amatuer job. Your choice.

I agree with HOTRODPAINT. Take it off definetely. If not then the new paint will have rust runs in it for sure later on. Also don't paint in 65 degree weather. Wait until it gets 10 degree's hotter or so. I mean you can paint in that weather but I wouldn't do it. Make sure you have sealed fans and lights or they will pop or cause an explosion. I haven't had a problem with non sealed lights but now have seen some bad things and hard about them and will only use a spray booth.

Do not put water down. Even the littlest bit of moisture will get into the spray pattern and cause issues. Water will evaporate, even slowly, at ideal paint temp. And will rise into the spray pattern and cause problems.
Just make sure everything is clean, wear plastic booties to keep from tracking in dirt on your shoes, wear a clean coverall, or paint suit. and make sure the floor is swept clean and spotless.
Also remove everything from the car, mirrors, handles, lettering and chrome. this will give you a nice even coat.

I'll pull the trim off, I was contenplating those issues myself. I don't need an awsome paint job but I certinly want it to look decent and last. The windshield and all other glass I'm gonna tape and paper off. thanks for the help guys. prep shouldn't take more than a week or so right?

You can do prep in 2 days easily IMO.

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Originally posted by Matt167
I'm getting stuff set up so I can paint my '51 Chevy this spring, I have just a small amount of block sanding to finish up, b4 I DA the area's that did not get any filler. do I have to remove all the stainless trim or can I leave it to paint? also, what temp to paint in? I have a portable tent type garage that gets pretty hot out in the sun, this is where I'm going to do the painting but how hot is to hot or too cold? on a 65* day it might be 75* in there, of course I will circulate air within the garage with a fan, and wet the ground or use plastic sheeting under the car and wet that.

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I would not spray water down as it will make the Humidity high in your plastic tent , and if your not watching your hose around the car , and you pull it
quick it may kick up water on the vehicle .
Clean at least 4 feet of hose from where the quick connect is at , back , Never drop the hose on the floor , always hang it over something when unhooking the gun for refills as dropping the hose on the ground will pick up dirt from the sticky over spray on the hose .

Plus using the plastic the vehicle will have static electricity , so get a bucket of water and put it under the vehicle and wrap a chain around the rear end and drop the other end into the bucket of water , this will discharge the static on the vehicle after a few minutes .

I to would remove all trim , easier to prep the vehicle , prepping can take as long as you want as PREP work is the reflection of your paint job !

For every 10 degrees under the Ideal Paint temps ( usually 78 -85 deg. ) , slower dry times will occur. under 65 deg. the hardner ( cataylist ) becomes nill and will become air dry & will take forever to dry , as it requires temperature for the chemicals to cross link ( dry ) .

Matt, prep time can take you 1 afternoon or can take you a week, it all depends on how anal you are about perfection. and how much prep work you have to do. if the body is fairly good already it should go quick. just remember not to gouge the metal when you sand. Keep moving over the vehicle, don't stay in one area too long. Also feel with your hand to make sure the surface is level. Or a bright light shining down the side will also help see where more work needs to be done. Even though you don't want a perfect paint job, you won't be happy unless you do get a perfect one. A sloppy job will make all the work you have done worthless.

Good luck

I'v decided to build a makeshift paint booth with 2X2's and plastic sheeting, the tent would be too tight for painting, I need a wider space, so I'm not crunched up agenst the walls, is it safe to put this on the grass? I want the best paint job I can paint myself, I have 2 siphon feed guns, that is what I will be using, 1 is a touch up gun, the other is a full size gun, where do I find tips for these? they both came with only 1, and I need a large tip for primer, I only got 1.4 ( I think ) tips now.

You will 'not' want to be against the walls so make room. Listen close to Hotrodpaint and Spraytech,they are speaking from hard earned experience,I can tell. Listen close,if you spray on the grass,look for bugs,AND MOST IMPORTANTLY, if you spray inside plastic,without hvlp gun and/or exhaust air look to incur some health problems. I suggest a fresh air system,especially if you are useing a issocyanate paint. I have done quite a bit of painting in a garage lined with plastic and it will ruin your lungs if you are not useing the proper mask with some exhaust fan. Your more than likely useing a urethane system and you know the dangers of breathing to much of that,well,plastic really makes it bad. Any buggs of course can be touched up. You sound like you are concerned with all the safety and tech. concerns,I'm sure you'll do a good job,just make sure you look at all the safety concerns. Also, plastic will raise the temp.15-20 deg. on a sunny day.

I'm gonna run some sort of exhaust fan, get a paint suit, and a good charchoal filter for breathing, and yes I'm gonna use a single stage urathane. I don't know if I'll be using hardener, my dad says to use it, because it will harden before it can run, and he uses it when painting but, I think it's more of a bandaid fix to stop sags and runs.

Matt, use a hardner,but more importantly ,use fresh air. The hardner will make for a reliable coating,ask Hotrodpaint and Spraytech and they will agree, unless there is a 'newer' system out there that I don't know about. I speak from learning the hard way! Especially if you spray the entire vehicle at one time. Plastic is like putting yourself in a baggy with it! And, higher temps will make your lunges open up and absorb all of it without freshair and exhaust. I think the minimum is 100 cfm exhaust but check. Don't sacrifice your health just to get a paint job. I have read many of your posts and you are one that we would like to see continue,in a heathy way. Don't mock the manufacterures and gov. warnings. And I'm sure that the oldtimers of Clubhotrod will say the same,from expererience. Breathing hard is no fun,especially when your getting older.

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Originally posted by shevy not heme
Matt, use a hardner,but more importantly ,use fresh air. The hardner will make for a reliable coating,ask Hotrodpaint and Spraytech and they will agree, unless there is a 'newer' system out there that I don't know about. I speak from learning the hard way! Especially if you spray the entire vehicle at one time. Plastic is like putting yourself in a baggy with it! And, higher temps will make your lunges open up and absorb all of it without freshair and exhaust. I think the minimum is 100 cfm exhaust but check. Don't sacrifice your health just to get a paint job. I have read many of your posts and you are one that we would like to see continue,in a heathy way. Don't mock the manufacterures and gov. warnings. And I'm sure that the oldtimers of Clubhotrod will say the same,from expererience. Breathing hard is no fun,especially when your getting older.

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100 CFM, I'll tripple that at least. If I can get Dayton blower ( centrifagul barrel type ) fans cheap, I'll use 2 of those, I'll get the 1's that will move 150 CFM, the motors are sealed off from the air path so no fume ignition could happen 1 on each corner of 1 side of the booth should be good enough

I need help on creating a list of paint materials I will need, I know primer, reducer and hardener but what else will I need?

there is many things tape paper sanding paper BUT the first thing is get a good set of paniting gloves and repirator the new paint will kill you slow and i have been sick from it so be carefull and have fun

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Originally posted by pat mccarthy
there is many things tape paper sanding paper BUT the first thing is get a good set of paniting gloves and repirator the new paint will kill you slow and i have been sick from it so be carefull and have fun

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I was planning on getting the white painting suit that has the gloves and hood, and it sells for like 10.00 through Northern Tools, should I get a twin carbon filter respiratior? that was somthing I was unshure of, I know the 1's that HF sells says great for spray painting but does the paper dust respiratiors that doctors wear, on the packaging, and I know there not meant for painting

Matt, when I get home tonight or tomarrow I will send you a list of what you should put on for materials like all the sand paper, tape, paints and clears and activators, gloves, mixing sticks, strainers, etc.

iscyanide is not something you what to play with this is used in many paint hardeners with you need a good mask and keep it in a seal bag so it wil not break down and must be for this paint to work for this 3m makes them and if you think it breaking down get a new one like i said i have been sick from this stuff it is bad

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Originally posted by pat mccarthy
iscyanide is not something you what to play with this is used in many paint hardeners with you need a good mask and keep it in a seal bag so it wil not break down and must be for this paint to work for this 3m makes them and if you think it breaking down get a new one like i said i have been sick from this stuff it is bad

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Will do, Thanks

AS FAR AS THE RESPIRATOR GOES, MOST DECENT HARDWARE STORES WILL HAVE QUALITY ONES. I BOUGHT A $40 ONE 'SOS SAFTEY; I THINK. JUST CHECK THE PACKAGE TO SEE IF IT'LL PROTECT FROM PAINTS AND CHEMICALS, INSECTICIDES--THE GNARLY STUFF.