Galvanizing

[mcneilms]

I have the opportunity to get some body panels acid dipped and hot dipped galvanized.

Is this a good idea if I want to paint? Or will this cause the paint to not adhere properly (like on those galvanized handrails that you see the paint coming off in big flakes).

Thanks,

Scott

[SprayTech]

If you do have your parts galvanized , you might want to get PPG's DX 520 : Metal Conditioner -
DX 520 is a Phosphoric acid based coating chemical that will produce a zink phosphate coating on glavanized or steel surfaces .
DX520 contains a small amount of detergent which aids in the removal of light soils and oils and promotes the formation of a uniform zink phosphate coating.
DX520 is light green in color and may get darker over time.
Then spray the DPLF over it for an excellent ground base for your primer surfacer and color/clear !
SprayTech

[mcneilms]

Thanks SprayTech.

But would it be advisable to do the Galvanizing? I would rather risk rust down the road versus have paint flaking off in huge chunks.

I guess what I'm asking, is If it were you, would you galvanize (I'm talking a whole roof here).

By the way, cost is not an issue, it will only cost about $200.

Thanks,
Scott

[JL350]

Scott, I personally would give the galvanising a miss. You are far better off using a good paint system, ie good primer, paint through to clear coat. Done properly you end up with a nice thin layer of paint which is relatively flexible, ie body panels move without craking the paint.

Galvanising has draw backs for automotive panels. First the deposition thickness is a lot more than the paint, and then the paint on top, adds weight and gives greater risk of paint failure. Galvanising is also added weight, and it it is softer than steel. Also if the galvanising is scratched through and steel is exposed underneath then you get very rapid corrosion (ie rusting).

Just my opinion.
Justin

[SprayTech]

If I were doing the job , NO I would not galvanize the parts, I would sand the pieces real good with 320 on a DA , and hand sand all the areas with 320 that I couldnt hit with the DA, then wipe down with PPG's DX330 wax and grease remover , then spray a nice coat of the DPLF .
That will be a sound base for which to start !

SprayTech

[Youngblood]

I totally agree!

But if your concerned about it Don’t skip the DX579, By combining the DX579 metal cleaner "AND" the DX520 conditioner steps before the application of DP Epoxy primer you’ll obtain the best possible protection PPG has to offer

Rick.

[mcneilms]

Thanks guys, I'll give it a miss then.

Scott