Do these steps look right for Painting?

1. DPLF on Bare Metal
2. Dry overnight then scuff
3. Bondo
4. DPLF on whole Car
5. Dry overnight then scuff
6. Hi-Build
7. Sand level
8. Base Coat
9. Clear Coat

Also, I have noticed that 2-3 coats of clear are generally quoted, but...Can I put like 5-6 on at one time? Or should I wait for some time (How much?) then scuff and put the last 3 coats on?

The reason is, so I don't run the chance of buffing through. There are about a thousand big rivets on a Hummer and I will definitely hit some when wet sanding & buffing.

Thanks,

Scott

Good luck with not busting through the clear on the rivets I would try to cut most of the hardcore buffing out by using a GOOD clear coat some prefer PPG or Sikkens just depending on $$$ and personal preference. With a good clear minimal buffing is required in most booths as long as fans are pulled over clear for a proper cure time.I am not sure what kind of finish you are looking for but with a Hummer you propably would like something close to perfect so I would not cut your own throat by skimping out on clear coat and go with a decent setup. Typically 2-3 coats are good but more can be applied (i.e. 3-4) as long as curing procedures are followed. Sorry to be so long but I live for paint and body!

got to your variety store and get some stick-on dots. put them over your rivits while your buffing. anymore than 3 coats of high solids clear will exceed the mill thickness and create problems later on. with todays clears you have to lay them out slick as they dont buff well.

ppg concept is a really good clear I lov ethat sutff. goes around 200 a gallon here. if you want something cheaper i have a friend that uses nason clear alot. that is duponts off brand. he gets really good results with it.

if you use a cheaper clear and then lay it on thick it will turn yellowish kind of. anyways use good stuff and it will greatly reduce your problems afterwards.


good luck and i hope this helps.

Thank you both for your help. The Dot idea sound great.

HossPwr: I plan to use PPG, as it is available from the distributor here in Saudi.

I noticed your from Jacksonville, is that Florida? If so what part, I'm from there, I grew up on the Southside and moved to Ortega in 1977. I'm now working in Saudi Arabia...were trying to pump more oil for you guys back home, but were running a max capacity now.

Anyway, the painting will be done by a pro (sort of, you take what you can get here), in a real paint booth. I'm concerned about the temp. it will be around 120 with high humidity by the time all the prep work is done. I just want to make sure every step is done right.

Wish me luck.

Scott

Actually I'm from Jacksonville, Al. about 30 miles from Talladega but have been through Jacksonville Fl a couple of times. When you get that Hummer done send me a picture I'd love to see it. Keep it cool and breezy man, don't work too hard!

get your prep done and booth clean the day before. shoot it early to avoid the heat if posible. i use blue tape and dots on a lot of stuff to stop burns. i use the concept clear. it will lay down smooth enough that buffing wont be too tuff. good luck.

You might try southern poly clear , I hear it
is great .Not sure of the price but their epoxy which I have used is affordable and
a really good product.

I plan on using all PPG products since there is a local distributor here in Saudi. I'll check on the Concept clear, although they only sell the european versions here, so it might not be available., or under a different name.

I've pretty much gotten my paints worked out, per recommendations of SprayTech. I was just needing to know the basic steps so I can make sure the guys don't take any short cuts.

Here, although you have many qualified craftsmen, they will take advantage of you and take shortcuts. I know paint can look good right after it's sprayed and last a year or two and then problems will occur due to poor prepping, etc.

I don't want that to happen, so I will give them stop points along the way so I can check their work. I will also be there helping throughout all the prep work until after sanding the hi-build primer level. As from my readings here and searches, everyone agrees that the prep work is the most critical aspect in getting a great paint job.

This is really what I'm after.

Thanks you all for your help and comments, and I'll try and find more oil to run your rods, but we're pumping a max capacity now.

Scott

Prep work is the biggest deal. What I learned in collision class when I was in high school is do bondo before you lay any primer. So if it were me I would take it to bare metal and bondo it, etc but then again you will have the problem of rust the next mourning. I was just taught to grind away all paint and everything before laying bondo down. I am sure it's ok to lay on top of the primer, etc but I only did it that way one time and the car I am doing it on is not primered yet I still have the front clip to fill with this 3M Automix 5895 Plastic Repair stuff.
Good luck and pictures would be great, I wanna see how it comes out too.