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this is like beating a dead horse.here it is if you spray it out of a gun you will have to thin it .the primer will shrink .why? it hase been thinned and in till all thinner are out of the primer it is fat and when you sand it is still fat but when the primer set out and the thinnner get out it will start to sink down and pull on the scratches i have done body and paint work for more than 20 years and there is NO way you need 40 grit scratches to hook primer on steel 80 gets the job done and less is better no one make steel that comes out of a can that you can spray on when the steel is to thin you are screwed all the new hi fill primer can be help full but a lot of people use it to fix bad body work and the thicker you pile the crap up ,the more all this stuff will shrink and spot putty is for some asking for it .the fast way to be out the door were i worked was to use spot putty:whacked:
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SprayTech, If I haven't learned anything else on this group, it is that no two painters use the same process.
I use 36 or 40 grit on a vertical sander to strip paint. I can strip a full size car in 3-4 hours, or I can strip a set of bike tin in about 10-20 minutes per piece. no chemical residue, no warped sheet metal, no doing bodywork over, Just metal prep, prime heavy and block with 360. I don't know if you enjoy sanding, but I use the heaviest grit that will not give me problems later.
BTW, I hated Feather Fill too!
Most of what I've learned is self taught over a 40 year career. Classroom theory, and manufacturer's recommendations are fine, but for me, it's a reliable process, and as few hours as are necessary to get the quality I need. I do only custom work, so the standard has to be pretty high. If it didn't work for me every time, I would have already changed my methods!
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HRP , I am not trying to knock the way you do things , its why I said if it works for you by all means do it .
There is No argument from me :)
I Have been painting 30 years and have a excellent rep myself .
Finding a system that works for you and sticking with it , as long as there are no paint problems is what a painter strives for . The switching of this new item , and switching to that new product , a person never finds a system that works and makes you money , or good results .
I have had helpers that always ask me why I dont try some of all these latest new fangeled products , I tell them I have a fool proof method , use less products , and achieve excellent work ! I will switch when I think a product will save me time , not because everyone else is using it !
I just find that the finer the sand scratched the less wear and tear on the old body for blocking :)
My back , shoulders and hands ( carpel ) have set in . Knees are going now :(
I can rip the paint off in almost the same amount of time using a MUD HOG with 80 grit , its why I question the grinder and 36 or 40 is all . I will then go over it with 150 on a mud hog , and have a nice smooth surface .
Spray
