Paint my 66!

Well I am still trying to decide what color to paint the 66. I had about 10 different idea's in mind and now down to a couple. One is a dark charchol (sp?) color with some flake or flat black. Now this is an everyday driver so if I put nice paint on it then of course it will get dirty quick and also scratched most likely. Only reason I was thinking about the semi black from John Deere is because of it's price and how I will be using this truck. I would rather have gloss finish but not sure. I really just need to take this old paint off, cut out the rust, sand off the old paint because there is bubbles in it and just paint it and seal it nicely.
Question I have...
How much would paint from a place like PPG or HOK be for a charchol color?
If I go with a gloss color then I am going to wait until the end of the summer (which means rust will probably be worse since it's getting worse everytime it rains) to save up money for it. But if I go with the JDBB then I will do it in a month (meaning I hope to have it all painted by then. The paint from John Deere isn't flat black it's a semi so not that bad even though every other person on the street has it (noone around here has it believe it or not).

Thanks for any info on this!

Second question, anyone know any sites on pinstriping? I wanna start learning how to pinstripe but need to know where to buy the materials and a site that helps you out with tips, etc.

Thanks AGAIN!
Shawn-

FMX , you need to put this link in your favorites .
It has videos and stuff .
http://www.spraygundepot.com/scripts...sid=0819144701

PPG will be cheaper most likley to use , Try pricing the Omni line SS or BC/CC . Look through a color chip book to find the Charcoal you like and then get prices.

SprayTech

Spray Tech, with the John Deere the prices are like 22 bucks a gallon for the paint, then I think 14 for reducer and hardener... Think the PPG will beat that? I will look into PPG.

PPG will be higher .

Alright well thanks Spray. I am sure PPG will be higher than 500 bucks with the color I want to huh? If so then there will be no way I can afford that right now with the 48 on the back burner. Like I said, I really would rather have a shiny paint job but if this if my everyday driver and I dont want to have to worry about scratches so much then maybe I should just go with the JD? I know you may be thinking that it's my truck and do what I want but I am stuck between the two. I just dont know anything about pricing on PPG or HOK paint since I never looked into it or havent painted my own vehicle yet.
Also Spray, is it ok to buy my materials like bondo, etc over the net from a place like www.autobodystore.com?
I looked at that site and the guy seems to know what he is talking about and his prices are fairly good and some things are cheaper and if they aren't cheaper then they are the same as the other places I have looked at. I like that spraygundepot.com place you always refer me to but their prices are higher and they emailed me and told me that they will match the prices but if I can just go somewhere and not have to worry about matching prices then I should just go there. (hope that made sense lol).
Thanks!

Well the only thing about mail ordering bondo, and stuff like that is how old the stock is , Bondo can dry out sitting on the shelf .
Same with Paint catylists , in time the products wont work like they are suppose to, these type products have a shelf life.

More so when the lid is cracked open.

Useing Omni SS I wouldnt think 3 quarts color , catylist , and reducer wouldnt be more then 200 bucks. But 200 bucks is high when you dont have it I guess :)

Have you tried your library for pin striping books ?

Spray

The last few cars I've painted with base coat/clearcoat have cost $800 to $1100 for good materials. Most of time I use R&M, sherwin-Willliams, House of Kolor, or X-otic products.

You have to remember that I want a paintjob to look great ten or twenty years from now, so I will not waste all of my labor and reputation by shortening the life of a job on cheap materials.

How much a person spends on materials (or even a hired painter) is their own choice, but always be sure that the less you spend on materials, the less you will get, guaranteed!

But for his first paint job I dont think using an expensive product is very wise, would be a costly mistake if it didnt come out right .

Eventually when FMX has the experience and confidence he will step up to quality products.:3dSMILE:

Hey FMX you might also see if your local jobber has miss matched mixes, as those are usually real cheap as they usually cannot be used on a shops customers vehicles. All you would have to pay regular price for would be reducers and catylists.

I used to paint all my buddies race cars with miss match paints , was fairly cheap , sometimes they would even sponcer the stuff just to get rid of it :LOL:
Its worth a call and find out

Spray

Ok thanks Spray. I will go with the John Deere stuff. Time to me is not much of a deal. I mean I am learning and doing what I like so if the John Deere stuff lasts for only 3-6 years then so be it I will probably have more money then and be able to afford better materials. To me nothing is really lost either way I go because it's all a learning experience. Spray about the library,I thought about that today but my stepmother already came back from there. I got a "How To Paint Your Car" book from David H Jacobs. It is the book with the Bel Air on the front cover. I had a few other paint books but they were due a while back ago and same with a wiring book. I am going to go online and check to see if they have the pinstriping book. If not they can get it from any other library in the US for free, etc so I will do that. Good idea thanks.
This summer will be crazy, I am going to be trying to learn to pinstripe, airbrush, paint my truck and everything else with engines and trannys. lol Then I go to college and learn more in the fall. heh

All I can say is be a " Sponge " and soak everytingg you can up :3dSMILE:

Sponge... What brand and which side, the scratchy side or smoooooth? heh

If you want a general idea on prices of ppg, try autocolorlibrary.com. They use to have prices on there and when I looked most was pretty close to what it was around here, but that was awhile ago. Should give you a general idea of the price range of your color, charcoal usually isn't too bad, the reds and golds with pearl are usually pretty expensive. It won't be totally accurate all the time though, Blue is usually a cheaper pigment, but I already bought a blue in the dbc deltron base and it was in the highest price code, had a lot of pearl in it. Omni isn't that bad for an everyday driver, used it when I worked at a used car place, but don't expect it to last or compare to the top of the line stuff by ppg. Its also not always good for when you need a color match, because there are less tints on the mixing system to mix colors with. It is also more transparent then the deltron base and usually takes more coats for coverage before clear, so you don't save as much as you think. Same thing goes for other budget lines from other manufacturers like limco. I heard a rumor that the omni line is old ppg paint tech, that is like 10 years old or something, don't know if it is true or not. When I use to use the omni clear at the used car place it seemed okay but easy to run if you weren't carefull, but I haven't used it for years, so couldn't really tell you now, some people claim its like syrup. When I want a pretty cheap clear I pick up Western refinishers select which I think is made by sherwin williams, I never cared for sherwin williams products I used in the past, but that clear was supplied for a job I did, and I was suprised by it. Your top of the line clears will be in the 150-200 range for a gallon, and add the hardener usually 30=40 a quart. The cheaper clears can be had around the $100 range for a gallon. The omni single stage acrylic enamel I used on one of my beater cars and it was around 90 for a gallon with the hardener for a white color. Charcoal might be slightly higher. Single stage can fade because you don't have the clear on top with the uv inhibitors. The single stage on my car is holding up nicely, still nice and glossy and I think I painted it in early 2002, but would like to see if a red would hold up which is known to fade. Ohh yeah, the mustang in my signature is budget line limco, with mar-hyde multipurpose clear. If it was mine, i would of went with deltron system, but I talked him up from using single stage. One thing I would be concerned about with ordering paint over the net is if you have a problem and your supplier of the paint is across the country. I have been thinking of ordering a few gallons of the marhyde because one place has it at a killer price. Peace out, my fin gerss are gettin tired.

FMX----Here is some advice. Don't paint your truck flat black. That is a color that although it is relatively cheap, you will get tired of quickly. Do not try to paint any kind of metallic paint on your first paint job. Painting is a difficult enough thing to master in itself, without adding the complexities of a metallic paint. Don't try and use an expensive base/clear system for your first job---it is not as easy as people would have you believe. My advice to you is to go to a high gloss one step enamel paint, in one of the primary colors, as in red, blue, black, green, or yellow. You can buy this from local big box auto supply stores similar to Canadian Tire here in Canada.---Rustoleum is a good choice. If you can keep the vehicle inside out of the rain and bright sun for a minimum of 48 hours after you spray it, you don't need hardner nor any other additive chemicals, just medium dry reducer. Just before you spray the truck, give it a quick wipe down with some paint thinner on a clean cloth to remove any silicone contamination, oil, or dust---Use a thinner cloth in one hand and after you clean a spot about 24" square, immediately wipe it dry with a clean, lint free cloth in the other hand. Use a charcoal filter mask. Spray one very light coat to start with---don't worry about "seeing color" on that first coat---it is a "binder" coat that will dry quickly and form a base for the second coat to "cling to" without so much danger of a run. Wait 15 minutes, (don't tack it off between coats--tacking off with a tack cloth between coats has screwed up more paint jobs than it has ever fixed). Spray your second coat a bit heavier---you will begin to see color fairly good on your second coat, but it will appear streaky----thats o.k., don't worry about it. Wait 15 minutes---spray your third coat. This 3rd and final coat will finish building your color, and take away the streaky effect. Clean your gun. SMILE!!!!! Your done. If you don't spray inside the box, nor the wheels, you will need 3 quarts of paint and approximately 2 quarts of reducer. If you spray inside the box, or include the wheels, you will need a gallon of paint and about 2 quarts of reducer. Do not paint outside in direct sunlight---that will cause the paint to "flash off" too quickly, and rob all the shine. (although I have painted many cars outside under a big tarp held up by poles, just pray for no gusts of dust bearing wind while your doing it). The entire paint job including paint and reducer should be less than $110 if you do it this way.

Ha ha, Brian, brings back memories. When I was in my early 20's I got a call from a friend to help with bodywork on an older limo they were working on. I get over there and they are doing it in a big tent made from tarps in the backyard. After doing bodywork most of the day and sanding I started painting as the sun was setting. I think with centari if I remember right. What you won't do for free beer when your young. It was interesting. I thought it looked decent but wanted to wetsand and buff it, but he was happy with it and didn't want me to. I later did some work on his moms taurus.

Kenseth17 and Brian, thanks a lot for the info. Also Brian, your idea sounds nice... But how long will that stuff last? If I did that then I would go with a black I guess unless they have a darker silver or such in it. I don't know anything about that kind of paint so any more info on it is still helpful. Is that what you used on your truck or did you go with the good stuff like PPG or HOK?
Thanks again!

FMX---I used a base/clear paint, Sikkens Lesonal. It cost over $1000 to paint a vehicle half the size of you truck. Way back in the day, when I started painting, I used paint from Canadian Tire (tremclad), and rustoleum paint. This stuff is cheap, has an unbelieveable gloss, and will last for about 5 years. It is great paint to learn on. The only word of caution to give regarding black, is that it is the very worst colour to show up less than perfect bodywork. The lighter a colour is, the less it will show your bodywork. Any kind of paint that is "silvery" will be a metallic. There is no naturally occuring pigment that gives a silvery colour. This colour (silver) is achieved by grinding polished aluminum into a fine powder and adding a clear binder to it to make silvery colored paint.---stay away---stay away!!!! For your first painting attempts go with a solid "organic" color.

I remember painting my Corvette and my brothers mustang in my driveway.........nice day, no wind....wet down the concrete and let er rip........both came out great......because I was using old nitrous cellulose paint........and lacquer........both you can wet sand out the specks and bugs (lol)......both dry fast and so not much gets in them. Those were the days............haha:whacked: :LOL:

Brian I will definetely check that out then! 5 years isn't too bad. That will probably be how long the semi gloss John Deere paint will last. When I do the body work on here I will make sure it's perfect. There is going to be a lot of work to do on this because the trim wholes ALL the way around the truck were bondoed in you can tell, because the wholes have cracks around them and starting to pop out. The tail gate is very bad, you can see where all the wholes were around it (no kidding there is about 50 holes at LEAST) but they aren't popped all the way through yet, just indentions.
Right now I am between this stuff you told me about Brian or the JD stuff. The John Deere flat black isn't completely black, it's got kind of a shine to it so not THAT bad but oh well. I firgured, 22 bucks a gallon plus 14 for hardener and reducer, that is cheap. I was looking in a recent Street Rodder mag and someone did a old 30s sedan in john deere black and to tell you the truth it isn't so bad as long as you have nice chrome rims, chrome grill and bumper and chrome rear bumper to set it all off.

man I wouldn't paint it flat unless your body work isn't ok an you have to repaint it anyway. go for gloss, you will be REAL happy with any catalyzed paint. flat has its own problems to spray, get the experience you need with a real paint, enjoy and happy birthday

So anyone have any idea on what brand to get them for this catalyst paint or whatever that Brian and TOOL are talking about? I need to paint this thing here in the next 2 months or so when I can. The rust is comming through more now and I don't want it to spread anymore than it has.
Any info on this paint such as where to get it, which brand, price, etc would be great. I can't really afford much here, I just need something that will get me by for now.

TOOL, thanks for the happy bday too man! Almost forgot to thank you, heh. See I am not THAT rude. :p :p :p

i get in trouble every time i get into this. first off i owned a production van shop for 20 years. we painted 10 to 15 a day. thats a lot of laps in the booth. i do not use 2nd line paint. if you have problems they will not stand behind it. for a first time painter i would suggest centari enamel with a glamor pack . it's user friendly and last forever. a single stage black wont break you but redoing 2nd line jobs will eat you up. cutting corners is cutting quality. i understand having to cut cost but paint is not the place to cut. if you do a single stage black and put enough on you can buff on it for years. just my opinon after 35 years of painting.

i would post a pic of a black coupe done in 95 with centari but have
nt figured it out yet.
this was taken last year.

if you dont want to do a paint job right now just shoot it with dp 90 and go cruzin. it'll look ok and protect it until your ready to do it up right.

If you can't get the catalyst through the dealer, take the paint to any automotive store, and see if they have a universal hardener for the type of paint it is made from.....probably synthetic enamel, or acrylic enamel.

So wait, sorry I don't really get this but where do I get this paint from and what is the brand name then? I just never heard of this paint, the only kind I know of is bc/cc and that's about it. How much is this stuff as well?

Quote:

---

Originally posted by HOTRODPAINT
If you can't get the catalyst through the dealer, take the paint to any automotive store, and see if they have a universal hardener for the type of paint it is made from.....probably synthetic enamel, or acrylic enamel.

---

Sorry, I misunderstood your last post. I thought you couldn't get the catalyst.

No problem.

FMX Go with PPG single stage urethane, I believe it is the Omni brand. It is a catalyzed urethane paint, is less expensive, and does not require a clear coat. If you can't find a dealer, go to any bodyshop and find out what brand they use and what they recomend. Most bodyshops now mix their own paint from bases and pigments, and most are glad to give help and advice to "wanna-be" painters. Just be sure that you use a charcoal filter breathing mask with new filters if you are going to spray any kind of catalyzed paint. This stuff will actually "set-up" in your lungs and block off the "oxygen exchangers" inside your lungs. You then die a slow and painfull death from suffocation, because even though you can still breath in and out, the lungs can no longer pass the oxygen into your blood stream, and there is no medical procedure to fix it----you just die!!!

If you intend to sand and buff a lot, a clear coat is easier, since it doesn't load up on the buff pads. Other wise I agree with using a single stage.

Thanks for the info guys! I may try and fork out a little more money and get this thing done right, etc. How much is that single stage for primer, hardeners, base color, clear, etc like an estimated guess? The color I am not sure what I wan't to do. I would love to do a darker metallic blue color or such even though they say it's hard to lay down metallic but I gotta start sometime...

Thanks again for anymore info!