Question for Spraytech concerning repaint on base clear paint

When I painted the grillshell and tailgate for my roadster pickup, I managed to mess up the paint a bit---thumbprint in the clearcoat on the tailgate, not enough colour in one area on the grillshell. I sanded them with #600 grit after 24 hours and resprayed them after 48. The new paint wrinkled them badly. Now I have a mess on my hands, and will probably have to stip them with the jitterbug sander and start over. My question is, how long will I have to wait before I can safely repaint these items. I don't want to go thru this again. I used Sikkens Lessonal base. and Sikkens clearcoat with hardner. The problem was the painter, not the paint. Thank You----Brian

the problem is the sikkens base , the base is very prone to" lifting "the clear on re-painting. to keep this from relifting , sand back smooth with @600grit . then spray base real dry coat after real dry coat again to seal the edges of your base to clear feathered spots . or you can use some base-fix to seal the areas you sanded thru the clear .
when sanding to repaint try to keep from going thru the clear into the base .

kennyd pretty much summed it up.....The base reducer usually has a stronger bite then the clear reducer, and will attack the sanded through clear edge, it attacks by getting inbetween the base edge and clear edge.
shouldnt have to strip it and re-do those panels , just sand it and prep it with 800 grit or 1000 grit , 600 in my oppinion is to course ( has a harder feather edge and lifing will occure faster, let it gas off for1- 2 days and try it again, mix your first coat of base on the thick side and dust it , tac between dustings , and reducing a little each coat , this way having more color instead of reducer should help seal off the paint edge and stop the lifting, I will usually hit the repair area after 3 coats ( once dried for 15-20 minutes ) with 2000 grit to smooth the over spray out a tad , then spray one more nice coat, then let flash and clear.
When you do a BOO BOO like that , you dont need to use such a course sand paper as the base and clear will stick , as its fresh paint and hasnt been cooked by infared or heat booth. Air dry is still pretty soft and should have good adhesion with out having to rip it with 600 grit.

Spray

Spray---thank you for the answers. I plan on talking to the paint rep this week and getting his input. The really painfull part of this is that the boo-boos didn't look that bad in the first place, and now I seem to have made everything worse. Oh stupid,stupid, stupid!!! It looked really bad this morning while I was spraying---the tailgate started to wrinkle as soon as I hit it with colour---I never even got to putting the clear on it. The grill shell stayed looking good, and I thought that I'd got lucky, then it started to wrinkle as soon as I hit it with the clear. If there is any saving grace in this situation, it is the fact that both parts are relatively small isolated peices. I don't know if I will have to strip them back to primer or not---hopefully this damn wrinkling is only at surface level and can be smoothed easily with #800 grit as you indicate. This morning while I was painting, the wrinkling/alligatoring looked as big as cornflakes to me, and I haven't had the guts to look at it real close since. I just think that I should have waited a week or 2 before respraying.

Whats odd is the area where you got the base to lay down and the clear lifted itself. I have never had any PPG's clear lift itself. I wish I knew Sikkins better to help you out , but I have only shot it a few times on a BMW, and a few Mercedes.

It was nice as its a wet on wet system which I like, but didnt like the slow base flash times,
but Not enough experience with the system .

Spray

with sikkens it really dont mater if you wait 2 weeks , if you go thru the clear into the base , the edges will lift if you do not dry spray or reseal them . my advise is to strip the gate and start over dont try to fix the gate if it is that bad , or the next time will do it again . cant stress enough DRY DRY SPRAY the base on re-spray.
i sprayed sikkens for about 6 yrs before goindg to standox