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I want to paint my truck with something considered industrial.any ideas on some real tuff paint?I have been lookin at chassis saver and por -15 but they have no uv resistance.They met the criteria,flexible ,chip and crack resistant.especially the chassis saver I got a sample from magnet paints ,wow that stuff is indestructable but not recommended ferr topcoats.I want to bang my kayak into the truck and also load brush and haul wood but dont want a million and 1 chips and scratches.:confused:
Thats great fer the bed but I also want the exterior paint on the bedsides to be pretty tuff too ,u know rubbin against the bed with levis and the rivets on the jeans scratch the bedsides but thats a good site fer the inside of the bed ,tintable colors and all!!:D
Quote:
Originally posted by shawnlee28
I want to paint my truck with something considered industrial.any ideas on some real tuff paint?I have been lookin at chassis saver and por -15 but they have no uv resistance.They met the criteria,flexible ,chip and crack resistant.especially the chassis saver I got a sample from magnet paints ,wow that stuff is indestructable but not recommended ferr topcoats.I want to bang my kayak into the truck and also load brush and haul wood but dont want a million and 1 chips and scratches.:confused:
I agree with Tech1. A few years ago I took my slide in bedliner out and had a friend of mine (Brand Name Carefree Coatings) do a spray-on bedliner. I was remodeling at the time and had to pick up some brick for the fireplace. At the brickyard I took the tailgate off and the yardman set a cube of bricks in the back. Then he proceeded to slide it toward the front of the box. The bricks caught the floor of the truck and tipped up on end. I thought it dug into the new liner. But when I unloaded the bricks ........... not even a scuff mark. GOOD STUFF. :)
For the exterior there's Dupont Emron Poly Urethane Paint with Dupont 2 part epoxy primer or a like product in another brand. It's used allot on semi-tractors. It's tough, but nothing is damage ''proof''. :(
Yeah i have been looking around for somthing like that but i havent had any luck at all:eek: :mad: :confused: :(Quote:
Originally posted by shawnlee28
Thats great fer the bed but I also want the exterior paint on the bedsides to be pretty tuff too ,u know rubbin against the bed with levis and the rivets on the jeans scratch the bedsides but thats a good site fer the inside of the bed ,tintable colors and all!!:D
if i find anything i"ll let you know. cause i dont want my truck to get scratched all up either and still be able to use it. but i dont know if they even make anything like that as far as i can find out
i have also been wondering about bed paint cause i dont want the srayin liner in my truck???
:LOL: :LOL: You're Absolutely right Denny, ..... I echo that answer. HEHEHEHE:LOL: :LOL:Quote:
Originally posted by DennyW
:) You want something tough, use imron paint.
As a newer alternative to Imron look into Awl Grip by US Paints, it's a 4 part LP which can be sprayed or brushed with excellent results. I've painted my 40' sportfisher, a 21' ski boat, a couple of jet skis, and a sons pickup - all with a roller and brush. The paint shrinks as it cures, stretching the skin smooth. It resists all common solvents and has a very high temperature tolerance - making it well suited to the engine and engine compartment as well.
Once cured the stuff is near bullet proof, and since the clear component rises to the top during drying it can be sanded without cutting into the color. The only real trick in use is thinning to the correct viscosity for the temperature. Drys in about an hour, cured in 48hrs (at 70F).
Regards, Mark
I like the sound of this Imron and Awl Grip. I am reluctant to paint my truck because I like to run things over and I would feel terrible if I put a big scratch in my new paint job. I saw only white and teal for Awl Grip, are those bases that can be mixed with pigments? I want to paint my truck hugger orange. How about that Imron, can it be color sanded? Imron 5.0 or Imron 5000 both look tempting. If I could brush the paint on (boy would I feel hick while I did this) and color sand it to look like it would be sprayed, that would be the way to go. I wouldn't have to worry about over spray and that would make the job a lot easier.
Awl Grip has a basic secection of around 60 standard colors, after that they will color match for you on a custom basis. We're doing the '37 with Jet Black on the fenders and Claret for the body and rims, these are both standard colors.
They list an "International Orange" as standard, close to the Hugger Orange you were thinking about.
They do offer a clear top coat that I have used on the ski boats deck. At the end of the season I scotch brite down the travelled surface that have been scratched up by the kids walking around with sand on their feet, then roll on a fresh layer of clear. All looks new again.
Painting with a roller does bring out the comments from the neighbors. They figured it was going to be a disaster, and when first applied it looks pretty rough. As the day progresses and the paint begins to cure it gets smoother and smoother, by the end of the day it looks like it was shot. And yes I did feel like a hick out in the driveway answering questions about painting a boat with "Sears Weatherbeater".
A secondary benefit of rolling is the cost involved - dirt cheap to do! You need 1/8" thick roller sleeves in a couple of widths and a couple of good brushes. To paint a 21' ski boat I used less than 1 quart or red and a cup of white that was left over from the big boat, plus the catalyst and reducers. Total cost was less than $100 plus my labor. Don't even need a drop cloth if you're careful.
Like all skills, practice first. You lay the paint on with the roller then SOFTLY draw the bruch across to remove the stipple and burst small bubbles in the finish. You need to brush vertically on vertical surfaces, horizontal brushing invites runs in the paint. Once the paint is down leave it alone, it will do the rest of the work.
Where do you find this paint:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:
There are quite a few paints in this basic category, all are LPs (Linear crosslinked Polyurethanes). The one I prefer is AwlGrip http://www.awlgrip.com , but there Sterling and Interlux products as well.
For retail sales I would try either a yacht/boat or aircraft supply house.
I do have a respirator, maybe I'll get that out. I'll probably be working outside, too.
Looks like West Marine sells this stuff, I wonder if I can get them to mix up some hugger orange for me. They do have international orange, and that is close. Kinda pricey at $230 a gallon, I might be using a lot of reducer with it. If I can't get a color mixed through them, there is a place about 40 minutes away that sells the stuff, maybe they can mix it.
csf is CORRECT on the impact of HARM with these products........But all forms of paint is bad to breath !
I used to use Imron alot until Dupont tried to reformulate it to match OEM factory colors and called it the wet look ....they ruined it IMHO !
Its a polyuerathane , dries like an old superball ( if you remember those ) .
All catylized Acrylic Enamels & Acrylic Uerathane
hardners have Icocynates in them , and this stuff is highly DEADLY, it likes moistuer.
I wear glasses and sometimes when I clear a vehicle I wont use my full face respirator and the INSIDES of my glasses are covered in overspray , not the outsides.
SO PLEASE BUY A GOOD CHARCOAL RESPIRATOR THAT FITS YOUR FACE WELL !!!!!
And you guys with facial hair, better shave as no mask will seal out the harmful fumes , unless you buy a fresh air system with a hood.
Spray
We usta' spray imron clear coat on the custom vans @ Winnebago. We had the best (@ the time) spray booth and bottled air piped in to the face mask. And it still didn't completely eliminate getting the stuff in your lungs. Not to mention it will absorb into your skin. We had to wear a one pc. jump suit. Glad I don't do that any more.
A little insight on Icocynates- they enter the body thru the muceous membranes, around the fingernails, and thru the skin.
They are residual, and you not only get to keep them forever- they build up until you get enough to kill you.
They also will work in thru the EYES, and ears...if you don't have a shoot & bake booth with a good fresh air/ evav. system then you are adjusting the time clock on your life.
Nice huh...but they use them as a bonding agent so that the stuff doesn't slide off on the floor.
Why do people try & do things without first at least reading up on what it is that they are doing? I saw a guy painting his truck in his private garage, at home, with a kitchen fan as an exhaust, blowing into his yard - where his three kids were out playing, and all he had to do was read the warnings on the can.....
try dupoont's premier line. the clear is a 3 part system. If you want more resistance against chips and things like that, add some flex agent to it. Premier is pretty pricey, but it will always look like its wet, it's a VERY good product.
Thnx fer all the replies!!
But I think I may have found what I am lookin for!!!!!!!!!!!!......
Por-15s hardnose paints.Heres the pitch.....
Hardnose paints are tough glossy two component for use over primed or painted surfaces.They are mosture cured.Exposure to moisture and humidity will actually improve thier performance and strenth.When fully cured hardnose paints are rock-hard ,chemical resistant,non-porus and incredibly tuff.Durable and easily cleaned,they will not crack,chip or peel,or fade with age.hardnose paints will withstand the most intensive uv enviroments.
These beatiful,two-component caotings are stronger than any color paints u have ever tried.The long lasting brilliant colors will look terrific wherever u use them and will withstand incredible abuse.You will be amazed at how well hardnose paints hold up under conditions that would quickly destroy ordinary finishes.
sounds good to me
now heres what its intended uses are ,farm implements{shows a pic of a drag blade}garge floors,wheel barrows,bulldozers and anything that needs tuff paint!!!
Looks like u get 8 oz of activator per quart.So at 165 bucks a gallon + 32 oz of activator,thats a little over a gallon and a 1/3.
Is that price about what good automotive paint costs ?