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I had made an inquiry about a vehicle and was given some very good advice. I was going to attached some additional info about the vehicle but I do not know how to attach a file......correctly. I tried to attach 3 files but only one will show up. I must be doing something wrong?
advise will be appreciated
The first item in the "Newbies" Post explains that as a relative new member any file attachments require moderator approval before they will appear - http://www.clubhotrod.com/hot-rod-ta...bies-read.html
I'm not sure of the threshold to get past the approvals on file attachments, but thinking it may be 25 posts? You can cut & paste text into your post instead of attaching a file, or attach a file or files and wait for mrmustang to check out the post.
I do not see any attachments to approve.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blairsville2011
What is the size of your each file you are attempting to attach?
Bill S.
I have been away for a few days so sorry about not responding sooner to your response. I did not post a reply for fear of it not doing correctly. I saw someone say try 'cut and paste' so will try that. thanks
I have been investigating a certain vehicle at Gateway Classics. The biggest No-No has been it was OVER PRICED. I am pasting some additional info about the vehicle and am hoping some of y'all will indicate if the info adds anything to maybe make an offer; of course not what they are asking but maybe it would increase what someone might offer?
Link to web site of vehicle: https://www.gatewayclassiccars.com/v...uxe-town-sedan
The transmission is a GM 350 turbo & it was rebuilt in January 2021. The Torque Converter is a 2000 RPM Stall Converter & was replaced New when the transmission was rebuilt in January 2021. The transmission was filled with AC
Delco, Dextron, Dextron VI, Automatic Transmission Fluid when it was rebuilt.
The brakes are Front disc Brakes & Rear Drum Brakes. The Front Disc Rotors & Pads were installed New in January 2022. The rear drum brake shoes were checked & were ok in January 2024. The Master cylinder is from a Corvette & has an extra booster (installed due to the racing cam in the engine causes the engine NOT to produce very much vacuum). The emergency brake works very well. The emergency brake handle is original & has been chrome plated.
The Starter is a High Torque racing starter installed New in December 2020. The 650 CFM Edelbrock Carburetor W/electric choke was installed New in January
2021. The Vintage Air Conditioner chrome compressor was installed March, 2018. The AC System was completely serviced & recharged in January 2019 using Freon 134.
Both Fan Belts were installed New in January 2024. The fan belt part number 's are: The Alternator drive Belt is a Dayco brand, Top Cog, # 15465 11A1180, Made In USA, 217 C31 00337 3151 040. The AC drive Belt is a Dayco brand, Top cog, # 15575 11A1460, Made In USA, 18 22209. The chrome High Output Alternator was installed new in March 2019.
The 12 Volt Battery is located in the Trunk.
The Battery was new in March 2021. The battery is NAPA Gold, the best at that time. The front & rear Drive shaft universal joints were Both replaced New January 2021.
The Chevy Emblem battery operated Clock is a very nice one-of-a-kind item. It was installed in the Glove Compartment door in January 2019.
I hope this information helps some and you enjoy this 1938 Chevy as much as we have for the past 9 + years.
My wife of 57 years and I are downsizing/selling due to our age.
Important notes — 1938 Chevy Master Sedan
Engine Oil & Filter change — 5/22/2024 changed @ Mileage 7397 miles.
The Engine Oil is Havoline IOW40. I add I small amount of ZZP additive. The Oil filter is WIX # 51794. This filter holds 1 h Quarts of oil which gives the engine a little extra protection with 5 h quart oil capacity when to the top of the full line on the dipstick.
The 355 C.I. engine has 3 cooling fans. The primary fan is engine belt driven. The 2 auxiliary fans in front of the radiator are electric. These fans CAN BE easily wired to control engine temperature on & off. The wiring is all there and then the on/off temperature would then be automatic and adjustable. The on/off adjustment for these fans is a potentiometer located inside the engine compartment on the passenger side near the top right of the radiator housing & just beside the chrome radiator overflow tube tank. All the wiring is there, but presently wired on manual switch as per previous owners preference. Presently the fans are wired to be MANUALLY controlled by the Middle Rocker Switch of 3 switches located on the Left side of the steering column. It has a Blue color LED indicator light when switch & fan is on. When running the AC the engine will generate more heat & I recommend keeping an eye on the engine temperature gauge for any temperature rise higher than 195 degrees by the gauge, especially in heavy traffic, in town, or in a parade, I go ahead & turn on the auxiliary fans as a precaution to protect against any potential overheating problem.
The engine Temperature Gauge always shows approximately 20 degrees HOTTER than the actual engine temperature is. For example, 190 degrees showing on the temperature gauge is actually approximately 170 degrees inside the radiator. The engine 165 degree thermostat was installed new March 2022.
The 3 Rocker Switches located to the left of the steering column are the GREEN indicator light for the LED Running Lights inside headlights & the Multi-Colored LED lights behind the front grille. The BLUE indicator is for the Electric Auxiliary cooling fans. The RED indicator light is for All other Multi-Colored undercarriage Lights.
thanks
have made an update with info about a vehicle
I give up. I posted an email with the info about a vehicle and it looked like it had completed. Now I go look for what i did and I don't see anything.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blairsville2011
Sit tight, it's probably still with Mr. Mustang, awaiting his approval. There's a somewhat tight rein on news guys, 'til the mods get a feel for you
Posts like yours above are moderated to prevent spam, a problem this site has had both in the past, and even today. For every one legit post, there can be as many as twenty spam posts that you guys will hopefully never see.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blairsville2011
Bill S.
still over priced.
The guy bought the '80's build nine to ten years ago when prices were higher and there were lots of buyers. To his credit he went through the car three or four years ago and freshened up major parts, normal maintenance that is expected but doesn't add value, just decreases value if not done well. His comment on cooling fans - if the radiator is sized right and has a proper shroud the mechanical belt driven fan is all you need, and the two pushers on the front block air flow and hurt more than they help, IMO. The multicolored LED grille and undercarriage lights are High School adds, again IMO. Uncle Bob told you that in hot rods Fords hold value better, as do coupes and roadsters over sedans. You've got a 40 year build that's non-Ford, 2dr sedan, Gen 1 SBC powered, and priced to get back what was paid years back plus Gateway's commission. Shine says you can buy a car like that for $25K all day long in his area. Maybe take a trip to Texas, pay Shine a fee to take you around, find a car and still be under $30K.... maybe $35K and Shine is smiling all the way to the bank with his fee!!
I agree with the guys comments, you'd have to be so in love with that specific car and it's features that you don't care what the ask is.........you just gotta have it. It can be very difficult to be patient when you're "on a mission", but I would encourage you to take your time, do as much research as you can, and let the market come to you as you figure out what you want and what is a realistic price. I'll just add, when you buy someone else's modified car the odds are pretty good you'll want to change a few things to better suit your tastes. Those can be minor or more significant, dropping another few grand to get that done should be in the back of your mind for figuring the total cost. Not trying to discourage you, there will be lots of options in your favor, you just gotta work for it.
Thanks to everyone........and thanks to the moderator for being patient with me.
All of your input is greatly appreciated. I can't give a good reason why this particular vehicle has been an attraction to me? It just looks kinda neat......if that is a valid reason ..... or not. I have had 4 Vettes and thoroughly enjoyed them ALL. I got rid of the last one because my wife didn't like riding in it anymore. Soooooooo, I have been looking for a "1 last Toy". Something different. I'm 78 and I've always had a hankerin for something like this vehicle. I can be of great help to someone who wants a Vette but I know nothing about this type of vehicle.
Thanks again. I'll just add the 'salesperson' has kinda sorta been keeping in touch with me and telling me to not 'give up' yet?????
the smile behind the windshield is all that counts. if you really like the car then negotiate on price. they will come way off that price to move it. brokers dont care about the price, the sooner it moves the better. same as houses. the realtor will be all over it the first 45 days then they're done.
offer 25k cash and see what they do. but be prepared to walk away. odds are they will call you in a couple of days.
I agree!! My friend who sold a vintage classic through Gateway had a reserve of $13k and Gateway listed at $22k. A collector in CA paid $19k plus buyers premium after the initial 7 day auction was done. Friend got his $13k, Gateway got the rest. Offer low reasonable, walk away and wait for the call. That game can be fun if played right....
Thanks to 'Shine' and 'Rspears', your advice is greatly appreciated. 'If' the vehicle is still available after the holidays I will contemplate doing as suggested. I have to wait due to Holiday obligations.
Just to further your education here's something similar:https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...eluxe.1327458/
As Roger pointed out earlier that one you posted has many "out of date" modifications. A big one being the interior style and material as well as those wheels. This one is done in a more "timeless" style. It appears to be an original with some "high school kid first car" kind of improvements, though it's far more than that. It's better priced by over 10 grand and he's clearly signaling he'll go lower. It's been on the market awhile which probably increases his motivation, plus it's winter, historically slower time of the year. A good example of what one option of many are out there.
And it's fairly close to Roger
...and not much farther from Ken!! (220 vs 275 miles)Quote:
Originally Posted by NTFDAY
[QUOTE=rspears;599388]...and not much farther from Ken!! (220 vs 275 miles)
Just pokin' the bear :D:LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter
Thanks. I appreciate your assistance
this one is for sale near me. really nice car . asking 34k. likely take a little less. it's an older build also but more realistically priced.
any other pictures available?Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
Here may be a dumb question......How long are these vehicles. I ask because there is nothing like them around me to visualize. Comparison: Mid-size truck?(Canyon/Colorado), Tahoe size? Suburban size? or Toyota Highlander size?
Wheelbase on a '37 Master Deluxe 2 Door Town Sedan is 112.25". That should give you a basis to compare to modern vehicles, within reason. Google Tahoe Wheelbase, for example...