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Thread: Model A top chop
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    shine's Avatar
    shine is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Nov 2003
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    bluff dale texas
    Car Year, Make, Model: 47 inderweed
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    2,109

    at 6'6 250 there is not much i fit in anymore . thats why i was building a truck . when younger at 180 or so it was no big deal .

  2. #17
    RichB's Avatar
    RichB is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Sep 2013
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    Portage
    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 A Coupe
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    567

    Welcome from another old retired guy! After chopping mine I would change the
    order that I did things. Since your to the rolling chassis stage I would mount the
    body on the frame. Replace the hinge pins, and line up all body lines, shim frame
    as needed (and or) bend hinges as needed. Install bracing in cab to stop any
    movement after top removed. I cut mine down near the body line to help prevent
    warping. I stayed 2" above belt line since there is lead in that area.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Hey, I saw it on TV! Well I think it works very well. I use mostly a small air saw
    to make the cuts, which keeps the heat of cutoff wheels away. The top metal
    is 19 gauge, and easy to blow thru. Any problems use copper or brass to put
    behind the weld while tacking. Look thru the top chop articles to see how to
    deal with the door posts, and windows to blend them together. I lost most of
    the chop pics, but there are some in my build log. I would leave the top insert to
    last if it were me. I only chopped mine 2", I'm 6' 1", and inside clearance is fine.
    A little lower seat, and 3"-4" would work.
    Build it the way you want!
    Have fun, Rich
    Last edited by RichB; 07-31-2015 at 09:01 PM.
    http://www.clubhotrod.com/hot-rod-bu...del-coupe.html

  3. #18
    BBB
    BBB is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Sep 2005
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    Walton
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    Hi Rich,
    Thanks for taking the time to respond so thoroughly. Staying close to the belt line seems like a good idea. I was not going to do that but sure makes sense. You do some nice clean work; do you have a site that has more pictures of your build? I've been going around and around with pros and cons of the sequence and could not come up with a clear answer so thanks for your opinion. I'm almost done getting the subframe and body secured to the frame and then body lines and door gaps are next.
    Thanks again,
    Bob

  4. #19
    RichB's Avatar
    RichB is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 A Coupe
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    Bob:
    Click on the link at the bottom of my post here for my build thread.
    I got in a hurry on mine, and did the chop before really getting the rest of the body repaired.
    Without the body in final position on the frame the top may have a slight twist, and door fit will be poor.
    Are you going to run fenders, or are you going hi boy? Lots of great fabricators here, look thru the
    build logs when you have time.
    Take care, Rich
    http://www.clubhotrod.com/hot-rod-bu...del-coupe.html

  5. #20
    Henry Rifle's Avatar
    Henry Rifle is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Apr 2004
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    Little Elm
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford Low Boy w/ZZ430 Clone
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    Bob, I assume you have your frame solidly held and level?
    Jack

    Gone to Texas

  6. #21
    BBB
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    Rich, thanks for the site info. The last day or so I've run into some have to dos and should dos and have not finished your thread but you are very thorough and made a very STRONG car. I will get some good info there.
    Bob

  7. #22
    BBB
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    Henry, your assume is correct.

  8. #23
    BBB
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    Sorry, I guess I'm not very thorough; I'm running fenders.
    Bob

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