There are only two times I get confused... when I'm alone.... or with someone. **)**)
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There are only two times I get confused... when I'm alone.... or with someone. **)**)
I hear yah on that one! :)
I need to modify the front differential mount/crossmember to gain some ground clearance for the duel exhaust.
Even though the stock rubber mount and restraining strap are a prone to failure, I was going to stay with them as I got them new when I bought my donor car. However, as I pondered how to modify the crossmember, it became clear that keeping the stock mounting location on the crossmember would be problematic. I decided to spend a little $ and convert to the RT (Ron Tyler) style mount that virtually everybody building a V8Z uses. It replaces the top restraining strap with a steel bracket and energy absorbing isolator, so that the front of the differential now hangs from the mount instead of resting on the crossmember. Once that was done I modified the crossmember as follows:
I purchased two crossmembers at Pick N Pull for $18 each.
Attachment 52064
Using one crossmember, I made a welding jig from some scrap steel.
Attachment 52065
I cut the crossmembers in half and welded the two pieces with exhaust recesses together.
Attachment 52066
I notched the area that interferes with the diff mounting bolt and welded in angle stock.
Attachment 52061
A little paint, and it's done.
Attachment 52062
very nice! You make it look easy!
Looks pretty slick! Nice fabrication work.
Real nice work, beats the heck out of having exhaust dragging the ground!!!!
Nice customization. Little stuff like this, makes them custom and yours!
The regular guy that walks through shows or see's these on the street have no idea what we go through NICE work.
Thanks guys.
Here it is painted and mounted.
Attachment 52159
My original plan was to relocate the battery to the trunk. But, after making some temporary panels, it's clear to me that there just isn't enough space to hide a battery. So, it's back to the stock location in the engine compartment. There was a lot of corrosion on, and under the original battery tray, so years ago, I cut it out and treated the area.
Attachment 52397
I fabbed up this new tray and bolted it to the fire wall and inner fender.
Attachment 52398
It sits a little higher than stock, but with a a couple measurements, a suitable battery was easy to find at the local O'Reilly's.
And now the part I've been dreading. WIRING! I have read the JTR V8 swap manual several times now, and it only seems to confuse me more each time I do. What sounded pretty simple and straight forward five years ago, now seems a little daunting. There are simplistic diagrams with color coded wires that don't seem to correspond with any colored wires in my engine bay. And there are a lot more wires dangling under my hood than appear in the manual. The manual does have a picture of a pile of wiring that can be remove, which looks impressive, but when I cut them I'm still left with bare ends that lead somewhere.
Don't get me wrong, the JTR conversion manual is worth every penny, and no one could ever cover all of the many wiring changes that were made in the Z models over the years. But for all the specific connections listed, there is this one non-specific phrase, "The extraneous wiring can be removed or by-passed with he assistance of the electrical schematics in the Datsun factory shop manual." Sounds good, until you look at the schematic. It is sooooo small that I can't even read the font, let alone follow the lines between items. I found a JPG version online and had it blown up as big as Kinkos could make it (3'X2'). It's hanging on the wall in the garage. And although I can now distinguish a headlamp from a hazard relay, the lines are still too close together to follow from one place to another.
Fortunately there is a rather large community among Z owners who have done this swap, so I should be able to handle it.
Sounds complex! Even my new wiring harness gets confusing as I add stuff!
Finally making some progress with the wiring. It was obvious early on that the Datsun Shop Manual schematic was too complex for my feeble eyesight to follow. I set about using my favorite image program and traced each wire using the proper color combinations. The process took a couple of weeks and is still ongoing. The result is a diagram I can actually use.
Attachment 52969
I cannot emphasize how valuable this new diagram has been. I've been able to eliminate the seatbelt ignition interlock system entirely, along with other systems I no longer need (rear window defogger for example). And I've added the representations of GM components that replace the old Datsun alternator, starter and distributer.
I still don't have turn signals or brake lights, but the running lights, dash illumination, headlights,back-up lights, starter and fuel pump are working. Tracking down whats left shouldn't be too hard.
I may try to start her up next weekend. (fingers crossed)
Nice work. Color makes it much easier to follow each wire!
That is a very nicely done wiring diagram, and you're making me wish that I had taken time to do that when I wired my car from scratch. It's only been 15 months or so, and I find myself wondering about circuits already....
A good wiring diagram is a real time saver!!!! Looks like you're making yourself a great one there!!!