I got a friend that recently got a 68 charger in great shape.
He has a or he says he has a 383 in it that needs rebuilt or should he put a 440 in it instead. He has access to a couple 440,s
which is the better motor?
Thanks
Printable View
I got a friend that recently got a 68 charger in great shape.
He has a or he says he has a 383 in it that needs rebuilt or should he put a 440 in it instead. He has access to a couple 440,s
which is the better motor?
Thanks
depends who you ask...I like cubes, but I know of some guys who swear the chrysler 383 will dust any 440...so, I dont know, the 383 revs quicker I imagine, but the 440 will out grunt the 383
I have been doing alot of research lately on BB mopars and there isn't alot of difference in the basic engines, they are all good to build up and of course everything depends on the combination of parts (cam, intake, compression, tranny, rear end gears etc.) that you use to put it together with. The 383 may be a more era correct motor for that car, they all can be built to screem fairly easily. I really am getting to like the BB mopars for thier low end torque stock they have is hard to beat.
One thing I can say for sure is that the late 60's early 70's 440's seem to be the most popular for building.
What about putting a set of 440 Heads on the 383, it was a factory motor option, called the 383 "Commando". I like the 383's myself.
Do the 440. The only thing that beats cubic inches is cubic dollars.
That would come close to getting you a 383 Magnum circa '68. My '68 Charger was a 383 and I had a lot of trouble with 440's, 350 horse 396's was a totally different story.Quote:
Originally posted by Matt167
What about putting a set of 440 Heads on the 383, it was a factory motor option, called the 383 "Commando". I like the 383's myself.
Depends.Is the 383 the original motor? If it is I would be inclined to stick with that.Be worth it in the long run.
I had a 383 in my 68 Charger and it was strong as hell,even when I ran it with two burnt out valves.:o Only thing, it wouldn't stop,had drums on all four corners.
However there is something about the numbers 440 that gets the pulse racing on any Mopar man.Almost as much as that word..HEMI.
Cheers KIWI
Go for the big one,at least the cheap big one,put a 440 crank into a 400 block,you get 452 cubes of real torque in a relativly small package that will melt tires by just thinking "acelerator".};-)
:cool: :cool:
Yep, and if you offset grind the 440 crank for BB Chevy rods and bore the small ends of the rods to mount 429 Ford pistons, you get a 470 cubic inch motor.Quote:
Originally posted by mercmad
Go for the big one,at least the cheap big one,put a 440 crank into a 400 block,you get 452 cubes of real torque in a relativly small package that will melt tires by just thinking "acelerator".};-)
:cool: :cool:
Tech, that's a whole new approach to the other thread about cross-breeding cars...
Cool stuff. Thanks for the info.
Pretty nutso, huh? :whacked:
Hey Tech your Back!
Good deal
The only thing better than cubic inches is more cubic inches, the only thing better than money is cubic money!!! Do the big motor, you'll love it. Heck, do it Tech's way and you will have a super ground pounder!!!!!!
I used to have a 69 Barracuda Formula S with a 383 Commando 330 hp, it would beat most 440 factory stockers. Not the 440-6's though. As much as I liked that engine, if I were doing one today it would be a 440. Much easier to get parts for 440's then the old 383's.
Cool Runnin,
Like previously stated if the engine is original to the car then the car will be worth much more with it. But if not then sky is the limit. It depends on how much power He wants to have. You can build a 383 with very good power and torque, but it will cost approximately the same to build the 440. Except if your going to put expensive parts in them. It does cost more to build a mopar, but it doesn't take as much to make respecable power and torque. People like the 67' to 71' motors better because they forged cranks. The newer ones have cast. You can still build them for good power though. If it were my car and the motor wasn't original I would build the 440.
I have a 440 in a '66 charger that had a 361 originally. Granted, a 383 can be built to have respectable power but as stated earlier, for the same amount of money you can have a 440 done that will out perform it. I'll always be loyal to the 440. The greatest engine, in my opinion, that can be purchased for a respectable price. If your friend has a 440 available go for it and he'll be very happy he did. If he wants it stock, which it doesn't sound like he does, then this what's the point of this thread.
Every single 1968-up 383 has the same heads as every single 1968-up 440. All the 1968-70 engines used the "906" casting; all the 1971 engines used the universally-hated "346" head (also used on 440s through '73 and 400s from '71-'73). "Commando", "Super Commando", "TNT" and "Magnum" all used the same heads as the bread-and-butter 2-barrel motors. All 1966, and non-HP 1967 440s share the same head as the 1965-67 383s, which is the closed-chamber, small-valve "516". 1967 440s used the "915" head, which is a closed-chamber HP version of the 516 with better ports and larger exhaust valves (1.74" versus 1.60").
Yes, you can spin the nads off a 383, but it actually has a shorter stroke than a 360 so the torque is lacking. Having been in that position, I forsook the 383 for the 440's greater cubes, and never had a problem shifting a stock bottom end (including stock oil pump and pickup) at 6,800RPM.
They cost the same to build... dollar for dollar, he'll see way more power and torque from a 440.