The black hole could explain the third spring disappearing (but not its APPEARING)
But
It doesn't come close to explaining the bulb pack.
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The black hole could explain the third spring disappearing (but not its APPEARING)
But
It doesn't come close to explaining the bulb pack.
It's not a black hole. it's a SHOP hole and I know I have one too. I believe it's linked to all the holes they've drilled on Oak Island..
You need to move to Colorado, I hear they have some really good weed there.
the lungs won't tolerate it. Sadly so.
Ok, so I know some of ya had some fun with my post. And that is fine.
BUT.
I didn't post a joke.
And, I don't have many meds.
So how did you know they are in the kitchen!
The deeper I dig, the more dirt is revealed
I got the instrument lights working. I burned out the resistive winding in the lights switch in the process, new switch on order. The speedometer cluster mylar printed circuit is repaired, as previously mentioned.
The brake light is on: proportioning valve and emergency brake switch are sending signal. I will try to reset the prop. valve and adjust the brake cable.
The only thing plugged into the neutral safety switch is the back up lights. The start circuit is jumped out. The seat belt circuit doesn't look like it will plug in, very strange.
The inst lmp fuse is an odd ball, tiny glass fuse so I took an inline fuse which takes the same size fuses as the others, soldered the wires to the tiny blown fuse and popped it in. If I get a replacement that's correct, I can swap it in.
I'm thinking the guages now work, but the oil guage has no sending unit. There are mechanical guages for temp and oil which mount under the dash so I'll have to decide if I'm going to keep them. I do like mechanical guages, they seem reliable.
Haven't looked into why the AC compressor stayed energized yet. It could be that it was being back fed from everything else because of bad grounds. My Haynes manual schematic doesn't mention the AC, very odd.
They put the duct work in without replacing the deteriorated foam gasket. I would never have gotten anything from the vents at all. I sliced up a large grout sponge left over from a tile job, and glued it in with 3M spray adhesive left over from re-covering the dash of the 73 charger.
I've got the radio rewired also. They put both hot wires on the original radio feed, so it lost memory every time it was turned off. So I put the batt label wire to the circuit which feeds the clock.
The wood stove has the room too warm, so the front door is wide open to let the heat out. I hope y'all are staying warm too.
When you say "tiny glass fuse" do you mean the same diameter, but only about 1/2" long with only a small window of glass showing - Type AGA or SFE4, like shown on this Bussman chart?
Attachment 73390
Looks like the culprit.
I bought an assortment of the little glass gems, but I burned up the only two which would have worked.
dont say you have`nt done it .. i know you have .. how many of you have wrapped a fuse in aluminum foil or just crammed a couple of pennies in the slot to get you by for a bit .. i think i may still have one wrapped in foil for my pinto brake lights ..
".....dont say you have`nt done it .. i know you have......"
Actually the inner wrapper from a pack of cigarettes is a foil of some kind on one side. A single wrap of that around an old glass fuse is good for about 30A before it burns out.
Not that I would ever do that ;)
.
Chooing gum wrapper and match book covers!!!!!!!! match book striking strip was great for polishing ignition points contacts and cover was good thickness for setting the gap-------- what did some of you use when generator brushes got badDDDDDDDDDDDD?????????????
Took apart old D cell batteries and used the carbon core to make brushes
I never would have known to use D cells for brushes, I would've thought the alkaline would make it too corrosive. (Potassium hydroxide)
The other day at work I was cleaning up a work station when I saw a 1/4" ball bearing and thought it would fit the ashtray slide. PERFECT FIT!
The last electrical issue in cabin is the dome lamp. Well. More or less. The fuel guage doesn't work, but I'm pretty sure it's the sending unit. I have a new one, but today the hydraulic cylinder on my 4 post lift blew out. Unloaded luckily. Also the pressure guage is inop, but then it is missing the sensor. Then there is the neutral safety switch apparently out of adjustment (probably why the start circuit is jumped out)
Well hell, there seems to be lots of electrical gremlins left in the "cab".
I took a quick peek at the AC clutch today. It's still energized all the time. I'm at a loss given that the Haynes manual schematic I have doesn't show an AC circuit.
BABY STEPS ARE STILL STEPS
First, a plug for classiccarwiring.com for $35 they sent me laminated colored wiring diagram, 18X24 and I can READ IT!
Today I found the dome light issue. It looks like they installed a new base and lens, but in the process allowed the terminal spades to cross. Dead short. SO.. why it didn't blow fuses? Well, it's all about he circuit resistance. You see the wires go all the way to the trunk, then up to the dome lamp.
So, the wires are so long, the resistance was enough to drop the amps.
I also fixed the old headlights switch, and identified why the new one sounded and felt so bad. To fix the old one (remember, I burned out the spiral wound resistive wire) I overlapped the windings at the burned out spot. First, I tried to swap in the ceramic block with winding from the new switch. Only it wouldn't reassemble. I eventually figured out that the coil is wound too large.
The repair technique is a tad shady, and BTW it will get you by for a while with a heater element also, but the heater element will burn up again in the same spot. I'm hoping that 3 amps won't be enough to burn it out (again). If so, then I guess I'll have the new one to install.
Oh, also, I think I've identified the issue with the oil pressure guage. I think the Guage is now working perfectly, but the new sending unit is a switch, not a variable resistive output. So, I just need help to get me get the right sending unit.
It's the resistance curve of the sending unit you need to match your gauge. A resistance substitution box makes it easy, but you can do it with a few resistors. Most oil pressure units range between 25-300 ohms, usually 25 being 0 pressure and 300 high.
I would start with 35Ω resistor at the gauge to ground and see what the gauge reads adjust resistance until gauge reads zero that will give you the low side of the curve. Next I would try a 300Ω and adjust until the gauge reads its highest oil pressure, that's the high side. Use the values to find a sending unit that closely matches.
Thx for the tutorial, it will come in handy I'm sure.
I think I tracked down the stock part.
According to my nifty wiring diagram, a sensor wire is feeding the AC clutch. That answers a couple questions.
My lift is functional again, so today I tackled the fuel sending unit. (I had to have the hydraulic cylinder rebuilt)
The tall transmission jack really helped.
I got the sending unit out, and discovered the new one is wrong. The stainless fuel line was totally wrong, and the return line missing.
So what is one to do, let the project sit until Amazon replaces the item? Not if you've been corrupted with gallant stories of amazing repairs such as you guys have done. (You're the worst)
I decided to graft the new sensor onto the old assembly.
I cut the main line at about the same place on each then cut the conductor strap so they would overlap. I drilled a 1/8" hole in the strap ends, and stripped the old insulation off. I used a piece of new fuel line and a couple of hose clamps to connect the new sensor on the old assembly. I slid a length of the stainless strap inside the fuel line, to give the two conductivity.
Next, heat shrink tubing was slid over the conductor strap, then joined with a pop rivet, and pop rivet washers. I wasn't satisfied with the union, so hammered it together as a true rivet. Then I shrunk the tubing, it looks nice.
(I TRIED TO LOAD PIXELS, the technology Gods must need a sacrifice)
BUT, no function! It would seem the original problem remained- the conductor strap wasn't conducting to the terminal pin.
So, I removed the little doo whatsis that retains the strap to the pin. I would love to know what they are called; the circular clips with the internal fingers... the ones which pop on easy, but I usually have to destroy to remove.
In the process I destroyed the rubber dammit which sealed the terminal pin. I found what looks like a rubber "foot", one which secures itself into a hole with a tapered end.
Well I trimmed off half the "foot" and most of the taper end, drilled a hole through the middle and volia! I replicated the rubber dammit.
Now, since I neither know what the doohwhatsis is called that served to electrically and physically connect the conductor strap to the pin, nor do I have any, I chose to peen over the end of the brass pin over the conductor strap.
SUCCESS. Fuel guage now works.
But the hell that is my life: my cherished Star Trek collector McDonald's Captain Kirk glass just cracked.
The tech Gods must be mighty unhappy with me. The glass cracked just from being touched.
Lots of good stuff today.
My oil pressure sending unit arrived, the guage now works. However the needle fluctuates some. If the action doesn't settle down ill get a solid state transducer.
I let it idle long enough to get warm, I think the temp guage is working, but it didn't move much. The mechanical temp guage is still plumbed.
The heater core was leaking at the top hose, fixed that.
The door switch also came in. My dome light now works perfectly.
I don't like how the e brake cable laid over the sub frame end. So I cut a hole with a die grinder so it can route better. One of the hooks is missing, only has one on pass side.
I plumbed vacuum to the heater switch, the vacuum actuators seem to work fine.
The AC clutch was NOT wired to the temp sensor, it just happens to also have a green wire. So, confirmed that the clutch is constantly energized because of the control switch. I wish I had caught it when I had it out. So, either pull the heater control or put in a toggle switch. It's too close to being right to stop now.
Oh Well.. sounds like the sacrifice kinda worked out. Got some more of the bugs sorted out and some of those weren't even a decent fight to get! LOL
The shifter cable came in today. Unfortunately the shift action is still quite difficult. Isolating the action by removing the column linkage shows it is the transmission itself which is difficult to actuate. Where can I get replacement plastic slides for the shifter? They are worn.
The AC clutch is now functioning properly. As it turns out, i may have managed to overcome the dummy proofing and plugged in one of the sockets upside-down. That and, it appears the enginerds decided it was a good idea that the AC run anytime the main slide switch is not in off. They provided an override with the "economy " switch which resets to AC - on anytime you move the top slide switch. However, the detent action needed slightly more adjustment than the factory provided. So my dremel did effectively elongate the adjustment slot, and volia. The removal and installation went much easier. Also, on the way home I dropped by O'Reilly and found the dammits. They are called push nuts and I picked up two packs. I broke a light bulb in the process but otherwise it went quite smoothly.
Tomorrow I can finish the dash reassembly and figure out what to do with the two mechanical guages.
So I chose to remove the mechanical guages. They are intact and in a baggie, on a shelf next to the others.
Dash is back together. The less I need to say about the hardware the better. The screws were all missing from the foot flange of the steering column. Egad.
If I were to reset the proportioning valve, this thing would be quite close to drivable.
I haven't yet reset the proportioning valve, hopefully tomorrow. But I have been burning some fuel. It feels rough over 60 MPH. I'll be getting the tires re-balanced, and go from there. It smooths out when I let off the gas.
You would not believe how it was received when I drove it to work yesterday. Just seeing that car in the parking lot really made people's day. Maybe that's what it's all about.
I ordered new headlight buckets and steel trim clips. It got assembled with the plastic clips, and not all of them at that. The rear window trim came loose in the car wash today. I'd like some perfect shiny chrome grille inserts too, the chrome on mine is badly deteriorated. BUT it seems they are unique to the 75, very rare, and no repops.
The driver side wiper arm was scrubbing on the hood edge. I thought it was the wrong wiper, but the correct, thin wiper didn't fix it. So I used longer bolts, and shimmed the base down a quarter inch. I'm convinced it is the fiberglass formula hood which is the problem. It also has a fitment issue on the drivers side fender. I might be able to shim the fender up a tad to compensate.
The oil pressure guage has settled down, so the sending unit is doing better. Maybe the front seal on the transmission will stop leaking. That would be nice.
Regarding the roughness over 60... have you tested the timing chain for slack?
Newly built engine, so no. RPM doesn't seem to be a factor. Goes away instantly if I let off gas. Might be worth looking at.
Do you mean surging (kinda like the gas pedal is fluttering)?
If it's carbureted you might want to check the floats.
Oh My! That brings back memories of the used car lot just outside the main gate at NAS Corpus Christi where they would cut up old baseball gloves, belts, or anything else made of leather and line the main & rod bearings, then fill the crankcase with a 50/50 mix of heavy oil and STP. Those engines sounded great......... for about 500 miles. They didn't let anyone take an unescorted test drive for some reason.
Yesterday the headlight buckets arrived, very nice quality. Also, I discovered that the issue with the grille inserts chrome wasn't what I thought. It appears that the entire insert was chromed, then a satin finish was applied, leaving a chrome trim on the edges. So, I grabbed some solvent and stripped off all the satin finish from the bottom. Then a polish with Mothers, and it looks much better. I also polished the fog light frames and washed the lenses.
The nose looks pretty good now.